ekern

Can anyone advise on the specs for an alignment for a dual purpose road racer and daily driver. I had Potenza RE050as. I wore out the sides on the fronts first. I'm debating between the RE11s and Yokohama AD08s to replace them.

SIK02SS

by road racer do you mean the occasional HPDE day? and sounds like you needed more (-) camber

TS Motorsport

I drive my Z on the street as well as track duty and my last alignment consisted of a good aggressive alignment.

-2.2 Camber front (stock bushings didn't allow any more)
max caster (7.8 to be exact)
.25 degree toe out (i think)


-1.5 Camber rear (stock bushings didn't allow any more)
.25 degree toe in

Jason

It's the toe that will eat your tires on the street. Add more camber for the track to save the outsides of your tires, but leave the toe fairly straight to save the inside edges on the street. R

And remember, it's called a compromise for a reason.

VetteDrmr

I set my alignment more conservatively than suggested here. I just used the Z06 settings dialed into the inner ranges of the "green" zone on the alignment machines. My car sees a lot of street use as well as autoross and DEs.

THEN I monitored my tires, and when the outer shoulders got about halfway through the tread depth I flipped the tires on the wheels.

I end up with pretty even tire wear and fairly decent performance on the autocross and track.

HTH, and have a good one,
Mike

CHJ In Virginia

When I had my car set up, I had the technician dial in as much negative camber as he could get leaving all other settings at the stock ZO6 recommendations. The car is dual use HPDE and street. Handling is neutral on the track and it drives fine on the street. Wear is OK on both street tires and track tires. I do flip the race tires half way through the season to maximize life.

Greywolfe

I have -1.8 camber front (max I could get on stock eccentrics) and -1.0 camber rear. Toe is zero all the way around.

I DD my car and do as many track weekends as possible (about 6-8) a year.

I am running firestone wide oval and not getting any inside 'camber' wear but I have quite a bit of outside wear from cornering on track days.

I need more neg camber...

gkmccready

I'm similar. -1.75deg front, -1.25deg rear. Smidge of toe-in front, 1/16" toe-in rear. I'm closer to 7deg caster, though... I didn't like the feel of the car with "max caster."

I could use a touch more camber up front, but this handles nicely and wears well for combined DD and HPDE driving.

gtmotor

Wow that is a LOT of toe-out in the front! Usually you start to see some diminishing returns on pushing the toe further out in the front... do you think the Vette really needs that much?

I was planning on:

- Max camber front, -1.5 camber rear
- Max caster front
- 1/16" toe out front
- 1/8" toe in rear

Some people consider this aggressive, I think it's a good start for a secondary street car.

0RAAMaudio

Many great threads and posts here to search but my 2 cents, mostly again, though by no means an expert I have been doing this on and off for decades and have read every source I can find, have many books and talked in depth with real experts with real results.

-----------
Unless you have a really really good alignment tech that cares about doing this right(be prepared to pay more as it takes more time) and puts the equipment on the car right(I have seen it done far from optimal) and does not shoot just for the green zone which is pretty sloppy in what it allows, you are far from getting a good job nearly every time. It can be way off and though the car feels good, compared to what?

Once you drive a car exceptionally well setup the benchmark is just not there and even then you have to start measuring the results to really know.

That said, so many have done this right with these cars there is plenty of great advice on proper settings for your needs.

I ran an autocross yesterday in Pocatello Idaho, my car setup felt incredible(it should with all I have done) but my tires let me down a great deal more than expected. I love the NTO5 and will be fine for some HPDE fun but they just are not enough tire to take advantage of the brakes, suspension, seat, harness, etc I have in the car. It felt so good I would just go way to fast for the tires, when I slowed down and tried my best to maximize their grip, just way to slow to post a decent time. When I went all out, I could barely keep it going straight(I did one power on 360 and kept it on course and only lost 2 seconds, that was the most fun part of the day by far

Anyway, this car is setup for track and street, not the same as I would run for solo if going for the win but really good all around use, just proper tires for the class would make a huge improvement. You can have a setup that does it all quite well but never one that does anything perfectly.

To help maximize your efforts I highly recommend, though not the best solution for all things as there is none, stiffer control arm bushings, camber kit and the DRM steering rack bushing. You can run much less aggressive settings with the bushings. My car rides and drives incredible well on the street, mountain roads, and was superb in the solo event in tire temps, roll over, wear, etc, just not enough grip as the wrong compound.

-1.5 front camber, 1/16th tow out, +7.5 caster
-1.0 rear camber, 1/16th tow in
-thrust angle dead on, all my settings are very very accurate

Now matter how much you do to these cars, spend a few hundred, tens of thousands of $$$$$$ if you lower it more than about 1/2" you are thowing away a huge amount of handling capability. There is no argument possible, hugely recognized by real racers and race shops, pure physics, etc........unless you use LG or similar uprights to lower the car or relocate the inner pick up points.

If you want to be faster and the car is lowered to much, as above, then raise it or use one of the methods in the last paragraph, period

(One of the drivers yesterday(prior national champ solo racer and super cool nice guy) had his Vette lowered at least 1" more than it should be. While trying to explain some "expert" guy was showing him how to raise it by 3/8" saying it was all he needed so I gave up, another champ was with me and we just shook our heads and walked away, did not want to deal with the ego of the less than informed as the trying to be helpful guy just kept talking louder the more we tried to straighten things out. I will be calling the driver to explain things a bit more

----------

With stiffer bushings you can run an effective all around setup, not race winning but very good and not hard on tires.

Once you get to that point and learn to make relatively quick changes(log books are great as well as mark and or mic the parts you can) then you can dial in more aggressive track settings in not to much time.

----------

Have fun
Rick