Help to Remove Stripped Stud!
10-02-2010, 03:30 PM
#2
Race Director
Depending on the rim and if it's a stock (less strong) stud, turn it tighter till it breaks off then replace the stud and lug nut.
10-02-2010, 03:50 PM
#5
Race Director
Sounded to me like the nut is on and the threads stripped. If you turn it either direction it may get tight and then break off.
10-02-2010, 04:20 PM
#7
Pro
If it were mine, I would center punch the stud and progressively drill the center out until the nut can be removed. Then I would remove the wheel bearing and press out the remain part and press in a new one. Good luck on the repair!
10-02-2010, 04:31 PM
#9
Melting Slicks
ah, the threads on the stud are stripped.
I cant think of a way besides center punching and drilling out. Its going to be a pain in the ***, so have lots of drill bits handy.
I cant think of a way besides center punching and drilling out. Its going to be a pain in the ***, so have lots of drill bits handy.
10-02-2010, 04:46 PM
#10
Safety Car
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Grind it off ---
Take an air powered die grinder and a small thin grinding buzz wheel and grind the head of the stud off from the back. It will take all of 5 minutes. Then use a drift punch to drive it out the front. If no die grinder is available, use an electric Dremmel tool but be prepared to spend more time grinding. Be sure that you do not damage the surface of the hub by grinding too much and getting into the hub material. It will make problems when installing the new stud. I hope that it is the stud that has stripped and not the hole in the hub. If it is the hub, it's replacement time.
10-02-2010, 05:17 PM
#12
Race Director
They make studs in a larger size, for replacement.
10-02-2010, 07:40 PM
#13
The fastest way is to remove the hub/wheel unit. You those large T-55 torx heads in your picture?
REmove brake line
remove abs sensor at plug
split off lower ball joint with a puller
T55 torx on air tool off the hub at 3 places and remove as one unit
This way you can have the thing in a good position to work. You may also find the hub is damaged and if so you will need a new one. OE hubs suck anyway and fracture. This is a good place if the oe hub is ok to use the oversized ARP studs which friction fit to a very high amount over oem because they are about 0.010" oversize. You can view a post on this just a few days ago on this roadrace board.
once the unit is on the ground then you can grid it bang it heat it etc to see if you can remove the stud. Once you grind into the hub you have made a stress riser there and you have ruined it so work slowly and carefully.
REmove brake line
remove abs sensor at plug
split off lower ball joint with a puller
T55 torx on air tool off the hub at 3 places and remove as one unit
This way you can have the thing in a good position to work. You may also find the hub is damaged and if so you will need a new one. OE hubs suck anyway and fracture. This is a good place if the oe hub is ok to use the oversized ARP studs which friction fit to a very high amount over oem because they are about 0.010" oversize. You can view a post on this just a few days ago on this roadrace board.
once the unit is on the ground then you can grid it bang it heat it etc to see if you can remove the stud. Once you grind into the hub you have made a stress riser there and you have ruined it so work slowly and carefully.
10-02-2010, 07:48 PM
#14
Melting Slicks
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I have had to do this before, and I can tell you it is not a lot of fun. It was a few years ago on my '67 Camaro, but it is the exact same scenario. I had several studs that were just spinning with the lug nut, so mine was a bit more of a project. I think I tried to grab the back of the stud with vice-grips and hit the nut with an impact first, but the threads were basically fused together.
your best bet is to try to grind or drill out the head of the stud. I ended up using a combination of things to destroy the head of the stud and pull it through the outside of the wheel with the lug still attached. A die grinder would work well, or you could use a good drill and bits to hollow out the head. I ended up chiseling the head off after I drilled it out.
Good luck
your best bet is to try to grind or drill out the head of the stud. I ended up using a combination of things to destroy the head of the stud and pull it through the outside of the wheel with the lug still attached. A die grinder would work well, or you could use a good drill and bits to hollow out the head. I ended up chiseling the head off after I drilled it out.
Good luck
10-02-2010, 07:54 PM
#15
Melting Slicks
What probably happened is that when removing or installing the wheel, you slid the wheel on the threads and got a sliver of aluminum from the wheel mounting hole on the thread. Then when you put the nut on all was ok, but when you torqued the nut it smeared the aluminum and the threads galled. When you went to remove it, I'll bet it started to come off, like about half a turn and then it started to bind up. What was happening is that the stud and nut were galling and welding themselves together, and then, when you applied some additional torque to try to get the nut off, it was enough to spin the stud in the hub.
Don't ask me how I know about how this happens, been there, done that. When this used to happen once in a while, on my C4 I've always been able to just break the stud and start all over. I've never had one spin in the hub, but trying to hold the stud from the back isn't going to help since the nut and stud are welded together, you'd have to get enough torque on it to break the stud and that isn't going to happen with vise grips.
Get out the smallest cutoff wheel you have and go for the back side of the stud, as recommended above.
The lesson is to make sure, before you put an aluminum wheel on that doesn't have a steel insert in it, to wipe all the threads and make sure there aren't any aluminum shavings from taking the wheel off. Then be super careful not to drag the wheel across the studs when you put the replacement wheel on and you won't have a problem.... Also, I always keep a few spare studs and nuts in my track kit in case I need to replace one if this happens.
I'm pretty religous about making sure my studs are clean before mounting (that sounds bad doesn't it
), but it pays off in the long run.
Don't ask me how I know about how this happens, been there, done that. When this used to happen once in a while, on my C4 I've always been able to just break the stud and start all over. I've never had one spin in the hub, but trying to hold the stud from the back isn't going to help since the nut and stud are welded together, you'd have to get enough torque on it to break the stud and that isn't going to happen with vise grips.
Get out the smallest cutoff wheel you have and go for the back side of the stud, as recommended above.
The lesson is to make sure, before you put an aluminum wheel on that doesn't have a steel insert in it, to wipe all the threads and make sure there aren't any aluminum shavings from taking the wheel off. Then be super careful not to drag the wheel across the studs when you put the replacement wheel on and you won't have a problem.... Also, I always keep a few spare studs and nuts in my track kit in case I need to replace one if this happens.
I'm pretty religous about making sure my studs are clean before mounting (that sounds bad doesn't it
), but it pays off in the long run.
Last edited by Solofast; 10-02-2010 at 07:56 PM.
10-02-2010, 09:44 PM
#17
Pro
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I had the same thing happen this spring. Took it to the dealer and the tech told me it was a real bear to remove. Problem is, if it is spinning in the hub, you won't get another stud to work in the hole. They had to replace the whole hub (to the tune to about a grand). They gave me back the old hub and the stud hole that had spun as smooth as glass. Nothing for a new stud to grab a hold of.
Hopefully you luck will be better than mine.
Hopefully you luck will be better than mine.
10-03-2010, 08:00 AM
#20
Le Mans Master
I had the same thing happen this spring. Took it to the dealer and the tech told me it was a real bear to remove. Problem is, if it is spinning in the hub, you won't get another stud to work in the hole. They had to replace the whole hub (to the tune to about a grand). They gave me back the old hub and the stud hole that had spun as smooth as glass. Nothing for a new stud to grab a hold of.
Hopefully you luck will be better than mine.
Hopefully you luck will be better than mine.