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Old 02-07-2011, 08:58 PM
  #41  
RAFTRACER
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Originally Posted by davidfarmer

And for what it's worth, pretty much anybody that wants to be competitive in NASA TT or open wheel really has no choice but to eventually convert to a small clutch. You can count points all you want to, but the lightweight clutch/flywheel is the Elephant in the room!

Scary part is that you take NO points for this mod....It is a "freebie"....except for costs that is.
Old 02-07-2011, 09:02 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by drivinhard
aside from the obvious inertia advantage, you'll never get a C5 to 50/50 without one (unless you run the car heavy and throw a ton of weight in the rear)

The inertia advantages are many .....the car will do everything better. It'll also provide much quicker shift times because of this and be way easier on the transmission as the synchros dont have to do quite as much work.....Not to mention getting rid of the problematic factory hydraulic slave cylinder "issues"

QuarterMaster FTW
Old 02-07-2011, 09:43 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by RAFTRACER
Not to mention getting rid of the problematic factory hydraulic slave cylinder "issues"
best part about it
Old 02-08-2011, 09:19 AM
  #44  
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It is funny when I see people trying to save ounces on wheels and even lugnuts when the clutch spins/accelerates at least 3.4 x faster
Old 02-08-2011, 05:05 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by davidfarmer
It is funny when I see people trying to save ounces on wheels and even lugnuts when the clutch spins/accelerates at least 3.4 x faster
If you drive flat out you should only run titanium clutch nuts.
Old 02-08-2011, 07:53 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by drivinhard
both events used no lift shifting on the WOT portions.
I didnt know this could be done on a stock tranny??? An tricks to it?
Old 02-08-2011, 07:57 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Kubs
I didnt know this could be done on a stock tranny??? An tricks to it?
Pull and pray......rev-limiter helps shift when it goes from drive to decel
Old 02-08-2011, 08:20 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Kubs
I didnt know this could be done on a stock tranny??? An tricks to it?
Helps to have spare trans in your garage too.
Old 02-08-2011, 08:55 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Jason
Helps to have spare trans in your garage too.

If you are going to do this alot....best to have that spare at the track....unless you are Mark @ Road Atlanta...
Old 02-08-2011, 08:58 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by RAFTRACER
Pull and pray......rev-limiter helps shift when it goes from drive to decel
I thought that was how, but didnt think the stock transmission could handle it more than twice.
Old 02-08-2011, 09:46 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Kubs
I thought that was how, but didnt think the stock transmission could handle it more than twice.
tricky to do with a stock set up, because with heat the stock throw out bearing/slave tends to get sluggish. the tri-lite bearing is so fast on it's release, and the pedal travel so short, you can release/engage so much quicker.

it's really no different than shifting normal, everything is the same, just keep your foot on the wood. (it's a good TT technique when you got the sticker tires on and you're going for every last half a tenth, not sure I'd run a w2w season trying it )

What tears up trans is trying to shift when the POS stock bearing isn't releasing fully, lifting or not.
Old 02-09-2011, 04:29 PM
  #52  
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I am installing a 7.25" QuarterMaster triple disk clutch with TriLite bearing. I have a Tilton clutch master cylinder with 7/8" bore dia currently installed in the car. I was considering going to 1/2" bore dia. What size master cylinder have others with QM clutchs been using?
Old 02-09-2011, 06:06 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by RAFTRACER
I have been using the QuarterMaster 7.25 OptimumV triple and it has proven to be quite durable......

I like David am bad and drive my car into trailers too...
Ah, that was a question I had after seeing the clutch today at your shop.
I will just have to see how things go and then try driving it on the trailer.

I can always get a few guys to push me on if needed.
Old 02-09-2011, 07:50 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by WNeal
Ah, that was a question I had after seeing the clutch today at your shop.
I will just have to see how things go and then try driving it on the trailer.

I can always get a few guys to push me on if needed.
Get a winch, Bill.
Old 02-09-2011, 10:05 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by drivinhard
tricky to do with a stock set up, because with heat the stock throw out bearing/slave tends to get sluggish. the tri-lite bearing is so fast on it's release, and the pedal travel so short, you can release/engage so much quicker.

it's really no different than shifting normal, everything is the same, just keep your foot on the wood. (it's a good TT technique when you got the sticker tires on and you're going for every last half a tenth, not sure I'd run a w2w season trying it )

What tears up trans is trying to shift when the POS stock bearing isn't releasing fully, lifting or not.
OHHHHH..... I got this confused with "clutchless shifts" I thought you were just keeping your foot planted and yanking the shifter. I guess the trans would last a bit longer using the clutch.
Old 09-16-2014, 06:58 PM
  #56  
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I have a refreshed 3 disc like the picture on my shelf...
2000.00 you pay shipping....
some slight surface rust on the exposed flywheel part..

zo6racer@yahoo.com
for pictures
Johnny
Old 09-16-2014, 11:15 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by racerwannabe
I have a refreshed 3 disc like the picture on my shelf...
2000.00 you pay shipping....
some slight surface rust on the exposed flywheel part..

zo6racer@yahoo.com
for pictures
Johnny
You revive a 3 year old thread to shill your own stuff, classy!!



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