The Spark

The front drive shaft coupler / bushing went out on my car and tore up the torque tube.

I have a torque tube from a 2000 that had 90,000 miles on it that I can use as a replacement. Problems????

I have a track only car and was thinking about going with solid couplers instead of the factory rubber. Reading some older posts it looks like the camp is split on using 1 rubber and 1 solid or using 2 solid couplers.

OR - go with carbon fiber drive shaft.

Also read something about early vs late model torque tubes.

HELP! My car is torn down and we're ordering parts to get it back together.

geerookie

The difference between a '97 - '00 TT and the '01 and newer is the size of the driveshaft and the couplers.
'97 - '00 - 53mm driveshaft and 10mm bolts in the couplers
'01 and newer - 63mm driveshaft and 12mm bolts in coupler
The newer couplers are also stronger.
Here's all the parts needed. The bearings and slinger ring are the same in both.

I rebuilt mine about 3 years ago. I replaced all the bearings and both couplers. I used factory replacements but bought them from BMW because they were cheaper. You need a slinger ring, 3 bearings and 2 couplers. And one Big A$$ pair of C-Clip pliers.

Slinger Ring - GM part number is 12456208 cost $4.42 from http://www.gmpartshouse.com/.
Bearings -

SKF 6007 2RSJEM SINGLE ROW BALL BRGS 1 $25.64
SKF 6008 2RSJEM SINGLE ROW BALL BRGS 2 $29.33
These are the bearing numbers on the original bearings I took out.
NSK 6007 DU need 1
NSK 6008 DU need 2

Drive Shaft Flex Joint part# K1020-31191
Description: 12mm Bolt
110 mm diameter : Uses (6) 12 x 1.5 x 58 bolt.
Trans Type: 5-Speed Vehicle: 1998 BMW 318ti
Engine - Chassis: M44 : E36

Drive Shaft Flex Joint part# K1020-46069
Description: 10mm Bolt
96 mm diameter : Uses (6) 10 x 50 bolt.
Trans Type: Automatic Vehicle: 1998 BMW 318ti
Engine - Chassis: M44 : E36

You can get a FEBI coupler or the Lemforder which is the OEM. I went with the FEBI.

0Anthony @ LGMotorsports

Some of the early cars had a bolt together torque tube, and the later cars were all one piece.

They did go to a larger bolt size in '01 to a 12mm from the 10mm of the early cars. Shaft size is slightly different as well.

We did a carbon shaft for two major reasons.
1. The carbon is much stiffer than the alum. and resists the nature to bend or twist. This kills any chance of the shaft bending or causing any major damage and vibration

2. In the event it would break, the carbon simply turns to cloth and doesn't try to cut the housing or the car in half.

On the couplers, there are different ways to go. For most we retain an OEM unit in the front and a solid in the rear. This takes up for any tolerance in the assembly and cusions the blow so to speak and any vibrations or noise. For hardcore race cars we now run it solid front and rear.

Han Solo

I read a thread on here that said the bearings between early and late were slightly different. Double check that.

geerookie

I've rebuilt a few pre '01 and '01 and later torque tubes and so far they have all had the same bearings. I have one of each right now and they are the same bearings.
Having said that, I wouldn't be suprised if GM did something like that but I think it's unlikely.

The Spark

Is it worth trying find a newer torque tube or just use the one I have?
My car is making 430 RWHP.

The 2000 Coupe that I have the TT from was used only on the street and I doubt hot rodded much. It did have ~100,000 miles on it though. I figured it would be a good idea to rebuild it with new bearings, etc.

0Randy@DRM

Check to make sure the tube is straight. Other then that you should be able to rebuild yours. The later models are a bit beefier, and the better program. As said before.

Randy

RX-Ben

Slinger comes up as $6.98 at gmpartshouse - are you using a discount code? I'm curious as I have a sizable order to make.

GM Parts Direct looks to be the cheapest (5.58) but have negative customer service.
Parts Taxi is a touch more (6.23), but actually has customer service (and it is good).

The Spark

Gene Culley at gmpartshouse is a forum vendor and supporter and many try to use him.
Gene gives great customer service.

I've used gmpartsdirect before. I've heard they stick it to you on shipping. I've not experienced that. But Gene helps support us so I'm willing to pay a little more to support him.

If you have a sizeable order you might contact Gene and see about pricing. My $.02 worth of info.

The Spark

Thanks for the information guys. My 2000 TT looks really good. I will get the parts to rebuild it (thanks for the PNs geerookie).

I'll take your advice Anthony and get a solid rear coupler.
I'd like to go with the later model TT but looks like they are as much or more than the carbon fiber drive shaft for new. Couldn't find source for used but didn't try that hard.

The front coupler on my old drive shaft disentegrated. The flared part of the TT that attaches to the bell housing came off like it was cut with a knife - very smooth cut.

geerookie

I think my price may be a year or two old. I bought 6 of them so I haven't looked one up in awhile.
Parts Taxi is also a forum vendor and just down in Delaware I believe. Them or Gene are both great to deal with. Parts Direct is a pain

0Vector Vette

If this is a track only car, then I would recomend you change both couplers. If you only change one, the other will eventually break. We have aluminum couplers that we make ourselves in stock, they are $250 for the set.
Robert Finlayson
Performance AFX Motorsports
815-254-2631

0PartsTaxi.com

Thanks for the mention guys I'd be glad to help anyone out that needs these.

Han Solo

okay cool,

I was quoting another thread I read on this subject where a guy said the early had 3 different bearing and the late had 2.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1575581118-post49.html

When I did mine I got lucky and found a deal on a brand new assembly in the box so I just changed the whole thing.

0Mike Yeager@Eastcoast Performance

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TDP

I order them from bavauto.com to keep them in stock at my shop. The 1998 318ti BMW will pull up both types of bushings (10mm & 12mm).
26 11 1 227 410 110mm x 12mm $48.95ea
26 11 1 225 624 110mm x 10mm $44.95ea

They give free shipping if you order $150 or more, so I usually get 4 at a time. I've noticed that the OEM bushings and these BMW ones are identical. Both even have "made in Germany" on them. This leads me to believe that General Motors is simply using the same supplier as BMW. There is most likely only one manufacturing facility for this part and its in Germany.
I prefer these rubber "OEM" replacement bushings over the aftermarket. I had the poly bushing in my Vette that I had 5yrs ago. After only 6 months or so, the bushing had a crack by each bolt hole, going all the way thru. I also had the aluminum one in there. Not a good combo, as it yielded a vibration from 2200-2400RPMs. I went back to the rubber ones and never looked back.

LG Motorsports

We keep a good supply in stock/ the one on the left, with the scallops is the one we have been making for years.

The shavings are just for "effect"

http://www.lgmotorsports.com/catalog...b498958449d0ed

thanks
Lou G

ColeTrain'sC5

Mike from ECP hooked me right up with these German rubber couplers and couldn't be happier with how it turned out so far. Great customer service. I hear great things about LG as well

ssdeuce

I'm thinking about doing this for PM but I would like to go with the solid ones would solid couplers take points away for TT? I'm also trying to think ahead

Thanks!

redtopz

Here's a picture of a newer propshaft vs. the older style: