mountainbiker2

New rotors, caliper, caliper bracket, guide pins and wheel bearings. I've been using HPS,HP plus and HT10 pads. Pretty much get the same result every time. They don't seem to be squared up to the rotor. The backside looks perfect. Any ideas? *****Update post #14 ****







thanks,
Steve A.

Dirty Howie

Steve as you know I have been having my own weird brake wearing issues.

If you have tried different pads then it must be the rotor, right?

Nice looking rotors. What are they?

Did you send these pics to the manufacturer. Maybe they will give you new rings to try


DH

Rob31

Calipers are spreading . Took a set .Time for something bigger & better .

geerookie

They look like Robert's Hats and they are Coleman rotors from Performance AFX.
VectorVette

fatbillybob

I bet you also get lots a pad taper and the wheels don't roll as the calipers don't release. I bet the slide rails calipers are dead spread out. One of the T1 guys is having good luck just replacing the cheap things with new ones as a disposible item. You can be sure your rotor or hub is good just checking for true doing a rotor or hub runout with a dial gage.

mountainbiker2

That's what I thought with the old stuff. I bought all new parts. Listed in post #1. I'm going to try brand new brake pads and see what happens. Some of these pads were from the old setup. Those are tapered etc.
It was also mentioned to me that maybe I need to bed them in more. I differently did not do what Stop Tech recommends.
Thanks,

Steve A.

gumby4mayor

Odd, driver side pad is doing the EXACT same thing, I have been DD it for a week and it seems to be slowly going down the whole side of the rotor, I have thought maybe it was just the pads...maybe not.

Rob31

Sorry missed the " new caliper part " Long day ...

gumby4mayor

What exactly does it mean that the caliper is "spreading"?

C&M Racing

Put a straight edge on the pad. Either the pads or rotor is not flat. If you can get old carbon paper place a sheet of that and a sheet of white paper between the pad and rotor and just apply the brakes. Of course this will be done with the car on jack stands and wheel not turning and the carbon side of the paper towards the white paper. This will give you a foot print of the pressure point that the pads contact the rotor. If everything is flat the foot print should be even without any major differences. If you have a small contact area then work on what is the cause.

A pad that is hitting on the leading or trailing edge will leave a witness mark on the end that is making the contact. Check if the pad is in caliper all of the way and one end is not sticking out more. Good news is wear will cause it to match. It is like putting new pads on an old rotor the pad will wear to the groves in the rotor. May not be the perfect start but it will get there.

Rob31

I have seen one set where the pads only contacted the rotor on the outside .PBR caliper got very hot spead under pressure , then stayed that way .

Black_Mamba

rustyguns

cheap 12 dollar fix! and it works!

mountainbiker2

I ended up putting on new HP plus pads and bedded them in according to Stop Tech website. Basically 60 to 5 mph 10 times in a row. I did that 4 different sessions. My rotors look perfect now. These pictures are after the bed in and 12 lap autocross.





thanks for your inputs.

Steve A.

Dirty Howie

Steve

So so you think it was a bad set of pads?? Did you sand the rotors before the new pads ?????????????


DH

mountainbiker2

I don't think it was bad pads. I tried a few different pads, but they were either from my old calipers or from a friend of mine. So between not bedding them in and used pads that were tapered from previous setups I was going around and around. I did sand them lightly, but the circle was still there. Go to this website. Very informative.
http://www.essexparts.com/learning-c...rs/post/Bed-in

Steve A.