A/C Removal
#2
Team Owner
Member Since: Jun 1999
Location: Miami bound
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CI 4-5-6-7 Veteran
No pics, but what do you want to know?
Yes you have to pull the water pump.
No you don't have to remove the exhaust manifolds.
I took out the interior pieces with a sawzall. I highly recommend it.
Yes you have to pull the water pump.
No you don't have to remove the exhaust manifolds.
I took out the interior pieces with a sawzall. I highly recommend it.
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
#4
Race Director
there are only a handful of people that remove the AC.....no demand for a write-up. Unless required by rules, I'd just remove the compressor and bracket. The evaporator weighs nothing and helps seal the shroud.
If removing heat as well, again I'd just get the fluid out of the heater coil but leave the coil in. Removal is not fun, not fun at all. Even a Sawzall was a PITA
If removing heat as well, again I'd just get the fluid out of the heater coil but leave the coil in. Removal is not fun, not fun at all. Even a Sawzall was a PITA
#5
Safety Car
If you remove the exhaust manifold, no need to remove the water pump.
I removed my condensor b/c it was filled with sand (from prior owner). And I never use A/C, regardless of the temp.
Stuff foam in the gap btw the shroud and the radiator. You'll need a bit. I think plexi would work better if have some spare time - the foam does not stay in place. Maybe some adhesive/duct tape would help.
Just start unbolting stuff, ideally get the A/c system drained at a shop before starting. It is pretty easy.
I removed my condensor b/c it was filled with sand (from prior owner). And I never use A/C, regardless of the temp.
Stuff foam in the gap btw the shroud and the radiator. You'll need a bit. I think plexi would work better if have some spare time - the foam does not stay in place. Maybe some adhesive/duct tape would help.
Just start unbolting stuff, ideally get the A/c system drained at a shop before starting. It is pretty easy.
#7
Drifting
Member Since: Dec 2005
Location: Dayton, OH
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Heat will still work and so will everything else as far as temp control etc.
#9
Le Mans Master
#10
Racer
#11
Le Mans Master
#12
Race Director
I don't have A/C in my C4 and left the blower, defrost still works okay. Here's a tip that I did, block off the outside air duct so the system is always in recirc. Seems to blow less moisture/clean faster.
#14
Racer
#16
Racer
#17
Safety Car
maybe 20lb, unless you are taking out all of the HVAC.
compressor is ~10-15 lb, condensor is ~5lb, the lines weight nearly nothing, and that is it.
I already had the exh. manifold off, and I didn't want to buy a new condensor for the A/C that I never use, so it was a no brainer.
compressor is ~10-15 lb, condensor is ~5lb, the lines weight nearly nothing, and that is it.
I already had the exh. manifold off, and I didn't want to buy a new condensor for the A/C that I never use, so it was a no brainer.
#18
Racer
AC compressor, bracket, bolts/hardware, compressor line(s) w/ block, tensioners, belt - 19.8 lb
Condensor - 7.5 lb
I can weigh the lines and dryer and HVAC box if you want
Condensor - 7.5 lb
I can weigh the lines and dryer and HVAC box if you want
#20
Safety Car
Thanks for the exact #s, I was obviously estimating.
I didn't realize all these gains as I put in a DeWitts radiator/oil cooler - which holds a gallon more water, and then some more oil, so I think that adds back around 8 or 9 pounds.
I didn't realize all these gains as I put in a DeWitts radiator/oil cooler - which holds a gallon more water, and then some more oil, so I think that adds back around 8 or 9 pounds.