kmagvette

Problem: I have a C5Z and I can only mildly annoy a well piloted C6Z...I really want to **** them off.

I have already done the coil-overs, big sways, poly bushings, SKF hubs, and big brakes. I need to run full race slicks to be a nuisance in their mirrors, but I have nothing to offer in the straights. 50 more HP or so would be really nice. The track is usually Watkins Glen.

I know this can be a real can of worms, but I am considering a cam and, perhaps head package. I love the reliability of the LS6, so I don't want to go nuts with a really sharp or high lift cam where piston clearance and other PITA considerations come into play; just looking to consider a well known and proven cam or head/cam package for the track.

Currently the engine is bone stock, exhaust is LG SuperPros and the intake is a Halltech Venom. Dampener is ATI and pinned. I have lots of cooling capacity with a big radiator and a monster dedicated oil cooler.

sothpaw2

Go with a small cam and port your heads or get new ones. I had read that Tom B. was actually considering a smaller cam for his car. Try to keep the duration under 228 and the lift at .600 with 1.6 RRs for reliability. I would still change your springs every year--someone on here with a bigger cam (GX3?) broke a good spring with 2 years use.

I get the feeling that for a reliable RR C5, the above is the best you can do.

How much time did the sways & bushings get you over stock? I'd like to get 2 s or so at VIR but I'd only consider suspension changes; don't want to touch the motor.

96CollectorSport

Just buy your parts from GM, Hot Cam or ASA Cam - both have .525" lift but have different durations. ASA Cam has more lift than the Hot Cam, pair that with a set of the GMPP CNC'd LS6 heads and I think that will give you the 50 hp you're looking for. Your valve springs will be happy because you kept the lift low and you'll be happy with a little more grunt.

I put the Hot Cam in a C6 LS2 a while back and it went from 370rwhp to 400 rwhp with just the cam swap.(It already had a cold air intake and headers on before the swap) Most people don't like the hot cam because it's not a big lift cam, but GM put it in there LS3 "cammer" crate motor to go from 430hp stock to 480hp, so there must be something to it.

Here's the dyno of the before and after on the cam swap, as you can see we didn't lose anything on the bottom end and it just picked up power over the whole rev range.

bosco022

I have used both the ASA cam and slightly bigger ISKY .545 280/290 (adv. duration). cams in stock type long block road race cars.
both will work well in that application, with the ASA cam making
about 20 more HP over the LS6 cam and the ISKY another 15-20.
Both seemed to be easy on the valvetrain with no problems in that
area.

J.R.

Agree with all the above.

Stay with a small cam (under .600) with approx. duration 219-224/228 at .050. 112 to 114 LSA. Run single beehive springs and you will be real happy with under the curve power from 2500 to 6500 (this is where you will make most of your time up).

davidfarmer

Those GM racing cams (ASA and World Challenge, NOT Hot) have a lot of overlap, and need completely open exhaust to perform well. With ANY backpressure, you'll be sucking a lot of fumes backward through the engine in a street application. If it's race only, they are great, if not, I'd go with more lift/less duration.

AU N EGL

any cam put into or a built engine for road track days or road racing. needs CONSTANT monitoring.

Figure refresh each winter, and depending on use, new spring at least once a year. Maybe twice a season.

Do not believe what you read in LS1tech or other sections of this forum about how many miles or how long an engene lasts. Those are not road race use or even track day use.
That 3000-redline 5-6 times every 2 min for 20-30 min at a time 3-5 times a day takes a heavy toll on valve trains.

Small cams low lift work 2nd best. Crate motors work best. yes high HP is SEXY AS HELL. but take money to maintain.

Rebuilding an engine every winter is almost the cost of a crate motor.

if you have $20K get an LS7 crate with dry sump. But that is just the motor. and another 20-25 for brakes, wheels, and who knows what.

with that kind of money one can buy used FRCs, ( there 99 FRC for $10,000 for sale over in General two days ago )

Which ever way you go, Good Luck

Snuckley

No expert here , just been observing things for a "while" 1. Install good roll cage and fire system 2. Order LS6 crate motor, install cam mentioned above and store in your garage 3. Drive the **** out of your current LS6 til it stops spinning 4. Install motor on garage floor and enjoy, now that you have more seat time.

kmagvette

Thanks for all the responses...the car is primarily a track car, but I do get about 200-400 street miles on it per year.

The ASA cam looked like a winner, but I never considered overlap. My exhaust is LG Super Pros, 1.75", no cats, and the stock over axle pipes and exhaust. I have no idea if that is too restrictive for the ASA cam to behave well. If it is, then is the answer Borla Stingers, or are we in even louder territory?

No matter what I do, even no cam, I will be changing the springs out as I have about 15K track miles on them. If I do cam, then ASA feels about as big as I want to go.

Snuckley...I grew up in the valley, still have family there. The car went to Phoenix for the cage and fire system last year. I like the idea of a spare motor in the garage, but I don't think congress would approve the spending, at least not without an earmark for furniture.

AU N EGL

Furniture earmark ? OUCH

Good Luck

Bink

LS6 with the world challenge/grand am cam (239/251, 106 lsa and .570 lift), GMMP/LPE heads and 90mm LSx intake/TB will put down 450+ hp. The drawback is you have to notch the pistons .080 and .100".
Tuning is required - run it open-loop.
Hope this helps some.