My used T1 sway bars just arrive for the C5Z
11-03-2010, 11:57 PM
#3
Safety Car
11-04-2010, 08:07 AM
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
rear bar is 3 hole.
The end links most likely are the ones that would have come with the kit originally.
The end links do need a little clean up.
I have a redundant set coming with my VB and P bushing set (poly) so I guess we'll find out when I get to actually installing them.
I also have the original bushings for them, but I was thinking I would try the poly.
The end links most likely are the ones that would have come with the kit originally.
The end links do need a little clean up.
I have a redundant set coming with my VB and P bushing set (poly) so I guess we'll find out when I get to actually installing them.
I also have the original bushings for them, but I was thinking I would try the poly.
11-04-2010, 10:55 AM
#5
Melting Slicks
rear bar is 3 hole.
The end links most likely are the ones that would have come with the kit originally.
The end links do need a little clean up.
I have a redundant set coming with my VB and P bushing set (poly) so I guess we'll find out when I get to actually installing them.
I also have the original bushings for them, but I was thinking I would try the poly.
The end links most likely are the ones that would have come with the kit originally.
The end links do need a little clean up.
I have a redundant set coming with my VB and P bushing set (poly) so I guess we'll find out when I get to actually installing them.
I also have the original bushings for them, but I was thinking I would try the poly.
11-04-2010, 11:38 AM
#7
Safety Car
11-04-2010, 11:40 AM
#8
Race Director
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11-04-2010, 01:05 PM
#10
Safety Car
The only one to use http://www.powergridinc.com/ makes adjustments much easier, it's what I have on my race car & TT car.
I know this sounds kind of weeny, but car is a dd also, so noise is kind of an issue. Are these things super noisy? I like everything else about them though.
OP: Sorry to hijack your thread.
11-04-2010, 01:09 PM
#11
Race Director
The powergrid seem nice, and appear to be metric (unlike the GM units that are 1/2", and thread themselves into the control arm). However, they are expensive.
As far as I'm concerned, if noise is an issue don't use heims!
As far as I'm concerned, if noise is an issue don't use heims!
11-04-2010, 02:10 PM
#12
Melting Slicks
I've been running my stock endlinks with T1 bars with no issues. I know it's not "ideal", but it works for me and they are obviously quiet if you drive on the street.
11-04-2010, 03:43 PM
#13
Safety Car
Not to hijack, but how much faster did that mod make your car? Do you think if I added T1 bars and re-used the stock endlinks that I could make up 2 sec. at VIR full?
Thanks
11-04-2010, 03:45 PM
#14
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I have them on my old ZO6 which is street driven and I don't really remember any noise issue. I also never really listened.
What is nice is you can adjust them with out un-hooking them, you just loosen the nuts and turn the adjusting nut.
11-04-2010, 03:47 PM
#15
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Well you want to change the endlinks so you have zero pre-load, you can't do that with stock end links.
T1 bars won't make you 2 seconds faster.
FYI In 2007 I did T1 bars, new '04 shocks (had a 03 Z06 with 36k miles) and new Hankook C70s vs C50s and picked up 2 seconds.
11-04-2010, 04:02 PM
#16
Le Mans Master
im curious as to how to adjust the endlinks myself...just got some t1 bars i will be puttin on. I have 2 LG links and 2 stock...should I use the LGs for the front?
11-04-2010, 04:15 PM
#17
Race Director
you just load the car up so that it's resting on the suspenion (I have wooden blocks that I can put under the control arms), and simply adjust the end links until the bolt will go through without binding. However, if the springs are neutral (scaled) you will kep the bars and springs from binding against each other, but you could still easily have over 100lbs of "wedge" jacked into the car.
11-04-2010, 04:18 PM
#18
Le Mans Master
you just load the car up so that it's resting on the suspenion (I have wooden blocks that I can put under the control arms), and simply adjust the end links until the bolt will go through without binding. However, if the springs are neutral (scaled) you will kep the bars and springs from binding against each other, but you could still easily have over 100lbs of "wedge" jacked into the car.
also, should i run the stockers (endlinks) up front, or back?
11-04-2010, 04:33 PM
#19
Melting Slicks
Well you want to change the endlinks so you have zero pre-load, you can't do that with stock end links.
T1 bars won't make you 2 seconds faster.
FYI In 2007 I did T1 bars, new '04 shocks (had a 03 Z06 with 36k miles) and new Hankook C70s vs C50s and picked up 2 seconds.
T1 bars won't make you 2 seconds faster.
FYI In 2007 I did T1 bars, new '04 shocks (had a 03 Z06 with 36k miles) and new Hankook C70s vs C50s and picked up 2 seconds.
11-04-2010, 04:38 PM
#20
Melting Slicks
To set zero pre-load, just disconnect one endlink front and back and keep the other side connected. Then load the car and adjust the unattached endlinks so they slide in freely. You can try stockers and see if they work for you with zero preload.