LS-A Dry Sump system installed PICTURES
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LS-A Dry Sump system installed PICTURES
I have gotten to the point on HPDE's that I was worring about all of the oiling issues with the LS-3 engines. After reading so many posts about a dry sump is the only way to save the engine I made the plunge. I drive it alot on the street in central Florida so I did not want to loose the AC
So I went with the LS-A system from Aviaid. So here is my install story
The pan that is pictured in their kit is an ARE pan and fits fine except! The LS-3 has two mounting bolts that go horizontally thru the bellhousing into the pan. That pan does not accommodate them and also will leave about a 4 inch gap all along the bottom of the bellhousing and the front of the pan will have to be clearanced to get around the crank snout I did not like that so off comes the pan. ARE has a pan called the SCCA T-1 that has a rear extension that will take those two bolts and seal the gap much better
The kit shows a 9 inch or 6 inch oil tank. There is no way a 9" diameter oil tank will fit with stock panels and fenders. So get the 6" one.
There were a few minor issues getting the mounting bracket for the scavenge pump to fit. The bracket had to be turned over and new holes drilled
So I went with the LS-A system from Aviaid. So here is my install story
The pan that is pictured in their kit is an ARE pan and fits fine except! The LS-3 has two mounting bolts that go horizontally thru the bellhousing into the pan. That pan does not accommodate them and also will leave about a 4 inch gap all along the bottom of the bellhousing and the front of the pan will have to be clearanced to get around the crank snout I did not like that so off comes the pan. ARE has a pan called the SCCA T-1 that has a rear extension that will take those two bolts and seal the gap much better
The kit shows a 9 inch or 6 inch oil tank. There is no way a 9" diameter oil tank will fit with stock panels and fenders. So get the 6" one.
There were a few minor issues getting the mounting bracket for the scavenge pump to fit. The bracket had to be turned over and new holes drilled
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ttt
Very nice work do you do your TIG work yourself, really looks good.
#5
Looks great. Thanks for posting. I may do something similar to my C5 someday.
As for the vent line questioned above: The line you are looking at is the return line from the pump. A dry sump system should have the motor sealed and the tank vented. A vacuum relief valve is the only thing that may be installed on the motor to limit vacuum from the scavenging of the external pump, but with a two stage it really isn't a big deal unless extremely wide stages were used that may or may not pull lots of vacuum depending on pump design.
As for the vent line questioned above: The line you are looking at is the return line from the pump. A dry sump system should have the motor sealed and the tank vented. A vacuum relief valve is the only thing that may be installed on the motor to limit vacuum from the scavenging of the external pump, but with a two stage it really isn't a big deal unless extremely wide stages were used that may or may not pull lots of vacuum depending on pump design.
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Not sure if it's a public response your comfortable with but what was the total cost ? I just put off doing this cause I thought it might be more than I had to spend so actual cost would help me confirm my decision. PM is fine too. Thanks in advance
Steve
Steve
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The pan, tanks, pump,brackets, drive kit etc were $2500. Then there was oil filter relocation kit $70, breather tank $80, -10 and -12 lines and many fittings and fire sleeve $865. Then add labor
I had the work done by Buddy Hendricks in Sanford, FL. He is very capable and his experience goes back to being on the crew for John Greenwood, crew chief on a Porsche 935 and a 911 with Alex Job Racing. He was also a guest engine builder on the Hot Rod TV show for a couple of years
I had the work done by Buddy Hendricks in Sanford, FL. He is very capable and his experience goes back to being on the crew for John Greenwood, crew chief on a Porsche 935 and a 911 with Alex Job Racing. He was also a guest engine builder on the Hot Rod TV show for a couple of years
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There is a metal strap that bands the two halves of the oil tank together. The bolt that tightens it up is long. Buddy was able to use the end of that bolt to mount the breather tank. May not look like it but is very secure. It does not move
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Oil starvation
Did you experience oil starvation before you did your upgrade?
In my last session on PBIR where I had gotten also my Pfadt chassie, the oil lamp lit up once during my five sessions. The oil level was ok, perhaps close to the low level but had suffered four track events and was about 280 F at the point. I just assume that the engine experienced starvation for a second or so. So I understand why the dry sump is a good idea.
I am pulling 1.35 G in side force with R888 and Pfadt Aggressor I in my LS2 C6. Now I have new oil in and filled to the high mark. Will see if I get the same again two weeks from now.
PeO.
In my last session on PBIR where I had gotten also my Pfadt chassie, the oil lamp lit up once during my five sessions. The oil level was ok, perhaps close to the low level but had suffered four track events and was about 280 F at the point. I just assume that the engine experienced starvation for a second or so. So I understand why the dry sump is a good idea.
I am pulling 1.35 G in side force with R888 and Pfadt Aggressor I in my LS2 C6. Now I have new oil in and filled to the high mark. Will see if I get the same again two weeks from now.
PeO.
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The dry sump is preparation for the future. So far I have not gotten any oil warnings during the events in Sebring. I am still running stock run flats. I have Phaft coil overs, sways, bushings etc and will upgrade tires in the future. Also plan on doing an event at Daytona this year which as I understand will really need the dry sump for the long lefthanders on the banking
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Did you experience oil starvation before you did your upgrade?
In my last session on PBIR where I had gotten also my Pfadt chassie, the oil lamp lit up once during my five sessions. The oil level was ok, perhaps close to the low level but had suffered four track events and was about 280 F at the point. I just assume that the engine experienced starvation for a second or so. So I understand why the dry sump is a good idea.
I am pulling 1.35 G in side force with R888 and Pfadt Aggressor I in my LS2 C6. Now I have new oil in and filled to the high mark. Will see if I get the same again two weeks from now.
PeO.
In my last session on PBIR where I had gotten also my Pfadt chassie, the oil lamp lit up once during my five sessions. The oil level was ok, perhaps close to the low level but had suffered four track events and was about 280 F at the point. I just assume that the engine experienced starvation for a second or so. So I understand why the dry sump is a good idea.
I am pulling 1.35 G in side force with R888 and Pfadt Aggressor I in my LS2 C6. Now I have new oil in and filled to the high mark. Will see if I get the same again two weeks from now.
PeO.
Except Z06: Be sure to check the oil level often
during racing or other competitive driving and keep
the level at or near 1 quart (1 L) above the upper
mark that shows the proper operating range on the
engine oil dipstick. After the competitive driving,
remove excess oil so that the level on the dipstick is
not above the upper mark that shows the proper
operating range.