redtopz

I currently have the LG G-stop front brake package on my C5Z. These brakes have been working great for me with no pad knockback and consistent pedal feel. However, I need to be legal for T1 and be want to run 17" CCW classic wheels. So my plan is to swap the SL6 calipers that came with my LG kit for some SL6R calipers. I have a few questions:

1. Can I get SL6R calipers that run the wide 7420 pads? I definitely want to keep running these wide pads.
2. Can I install the SL6R calipers onto the LG brackets so I can continue to use my direct replacement stoptech aerorotors? Or do I have to get new brackets and rotors in order to fit the CCW classic wheels?
3. Who sells the SL6R calipers for T1 vettes?

Thanks,

Bill

gkmccready

I think if you check the Wilwood website you're going to find that the "narrow outboard body" caliper that LG sells with their kit is the best you'll get for the 7420 pads. The other "narrow" Superlite uses the 7416 pads.

7416 Narrow: http://www.wilwood.com/images/Calipe...ount-cm-lg.jpg
SL6: http://www.wilwood.com/images/Calipe...ount-cm-lg.jpg
SL6 Wide 5: http://www.wilwood.com/images/Calipe...ount-cm-lg.jpg

I *think* the Wide5 with the narrow outboard body is the one LG uses in their kit, so the only thing that's slightly better for clearance is the 7416 using narrow caliper. And even that I'm not sure fits under Classics.

If you go with the 7416 narrow caliper I think you'll need to buy the Wilwood brackets (or get new ones made).

geerookie

1. Can I get SL6R calipers that run the wide 7420 pads? I definitely want to keep running these wide pads.
YES

2. Can I install the SL6R calipers onto the LG brackets so I can continue to use my direct replacement stoptech aerorotors?
YES
Or do I have to get new brackets and rotors in order to fit the CCW classic wheels?
You will need to use spacers in order to clear the CCW's because the calipers are wider and much stronger.

I'm running the SL6R/ST calipers with the LG brackets. The ST version have the Thermolock pistons which I highly recommend you get!

They are part#'s
Righthand side rear mount 120-6143-RS
Lefthand side rear mount 120-6144-RS

mgarfias

1: No. You're screwed. You have to run the skinny SL6R that takes the 7416. With the wilwood brackets you still need a spacer to run the CCW classics.
2: I have no idea.
3: Just about anyone can hook you up. Try Van Steel, I've had good luck with them.

Oh, and make sure you get the thermlock pistons if you insist on running the skinny SL6R, and be aware that these are disposable calipers. Maybe not as bad as the OEM, but they flex too much and fatigue. Ryan0 fought this and had metal shavings coming out of the brake fluid when he bled.

A better option might be to get a new set of wheels (still 17s) that'll go over the wide-5 SL6R calipers LG sold you in his kit. I think Olitho has a line on some, or try forgestar.

gkmccready

These are *not* narrow enough to fit under CCW Classics. They require one of the CCW Corsair wheels to clear it. This is the same package I'm running. redtopz is trying to get *narrower* calipers not wider ones...

mgarfias

geerookie: how big a spacer did you need to clear your calipers? I know ryan0 was running like 1/4" to clear the skinny (not wide5) caliper.

John Shiels

exactly what I have frt and rear is 4 pot WW thick pad thermolock also.

redtopz

Thanks for the info. After looking at the wilwood website it appears the calipers I have from LG in the G-stop kit are classified as SL6R brakes correct?

http://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/Cali...Radial%20Mount

If so, I think these should be legal in T1 with no weight penalty. The only reason why I would remove the calipers I have is if they are not T1 legal. Otherwise I will keep them and just get different wheels that fit over the brakes.

sleeper02Z06

Let me clear up some of the answers in this thread that are wrong. I'm sorry if that is blunt but I just do not want you to spend time and money on something that has already been hashed out.

Your questions first ---

1. No. You cannot run 7420 pads in a SL6R slim caliper. You must run 7416 pads that are 16mm thick.

2. This one I am not 100% sure but i do not think so. The width of these calipers is so much different than yours i very much doubt it would work. In addition you will not be able to use a direct replacement rotor with the SL6R caliper based kit #140-8031 ( the C5 specific kit from wilwood ) because the rotor will not be centered in the caliper body. It is off by about 1/8 inch. Some have done it in a pinch and it resulted in destroying the rotro very fast.

3. SL6R calipers are part #120-8000 and 120-8001 ( RS ) and can be obtained anywhere wilwood is sold. Shop around for the best price. If you want them loaded with Thermlock pistons the only place I know of is Van Steel.

If I were you, I would sell your entire current kit and purchase kit #140-8031 off the shelf. It is affordable and works very well, much better than OEM especially late in a drive. Run it and see how it works for you and if needed upgrade to the Thermlock calipers and test the waters with other rotor options to fit your needs. I have this kit on my T1 car and ran all last year with no Thermlocks with no issues, even at Road America. The crowds can tell you how bright my rotors were and I had no issues. I experimented with other rotors and ended up back on the off the shelf wilwoods.

Issues with metal in the fluid are more of a result of running pads to thin, not caliper flex or fatigue. When the piston is forced out of the body of the caliper and the pads begin to taper the piston ***** in the bore, causing it to wear poorly, then you have to force it back in when changing pads and it makes things worse. The way I fight this is flipping pads over all of the time to fight taper and not running pads to the backing plate if it can be avoided. I have had no issues beyond normal wear. These calipers are not as disposible as one would think either, not getting near the temperature that people where basing their failure life on. I do however recommend rendering them to spares after a full year of racing. That is based on nothing except for my own **** maintanence schedule. Jason B. and I saw no temps that we would be worried about damaging the caliper body, even over the long haul.

One thing to remember though, with T1 spec CCW's you will still have to run a small 1/8 inch spacer just to be safe for wheel clearance. I run a pfadt spacer with no issues.

IMHO the setup stops the car slightly more powerfully than the OEMs, without much of a balance change. The big dividends are at the end of a race on a hot day, the pedal is still firm and pad wear is good. Is it the be all end all, NO! Is it better than OEM, YES! Good Luck!

JOe

sleeper02Z06

No, because they are not the "slim" caliper bodies. Those would never fit under a CCW without an obscene thick spacer. The legal caliper is part # 120-8000/120-8001. Those are the slims and the legal ones that carry no penalty.

Joe

gkmccready

Sorry to disagree, Joe. The caliper family is referred to as SL6 and the R signifies a Radial Mount. All of the calipers I mentioned are just different versions of the SL6R and depending on the version of the caliper you are forced to use the 7416, or able to use the 7420 pad shape.

sleeper02Z06

Edited to reference the "slim" SL6R, part # 120-8000/120-8001. My bad!

Joe

John Shiels

I have had zero problems running a spacer with my WW from LG it is .750" to clear the CCW. I used ARP studs. I have no clue if it is legal for you.

geerookie

Depends on the wheels I'm running.
Speedline 18x10.5 I use an 1/8"
Speedline 17x9.5 1/4" to be safe but an 1/8" would probably work
2000 Thin spoke 17x8.5 needs a 1/2"
TRW Nurbergring 18x10.5 no spacer
CCW C10 and C14 no spacer

sleeper02Z06

It depends on how far your spacer makes the wheel/tire stick out from under the fender. We get a little bit but not alot, I think maybe a 1/2 inch. The spacer itself is not illegal. I run ARP studs too but am not a proponent of spacers at all.

geerookie

I AM 100% sure that this works.
I bought only the brackets from LG and used factory rotors for a year and they line up PERFECTLY. LG designed them to work with SL6R calipers and everything about an SL6R as far as mounting location is the EXACT same for every model of SL6R and SL4R. The differences are in piston sizes, material and the over all width of the caliper which translates directly to how ridgid or strong the caliper is. (That and the strength of the steel bolts that hold the caliper together)

I now use Gary's rotors and I have 2 different sets/types. His 2-piece rotor that is a direct replacement for the factory rotor and his new T-1 2-Piece rotor. They all fit perfectly.
I can also run NAPA rotors if needed, also with prfect alignment.
I went this way because it offered maximum flexibility at the track if needed.

geerookie

Yes they are the "narrow" SL6R. They are not as ridgid as the "fullsize" SL6R that I mentioned but they are significantly better than the factory slide rail calipers.
Make sure you have stainless pistons or upgrade to Thermolocks and have some good air flow on the caliper and you will never have any issues.
I also have a 1mm Titanium shield I slide in to provide even more heat isolation. This is total over kill with my thermolock pistons but it is only a few ounces of weight and that much more protection when I'm below 50% pad wear.

gkmccready

Are you certain this is true of the narrow SL6R, the one that forces you to use 7416 pads? Please, please, please folks. There are three physically different versions of the caliper: the "narrow" (Wilwood kit), the "narrow outboard body" (LG G-Stop / Wide-5 caliper), and the full-size (what geerookie and I have).

I don't know if the it's the caliper offset or the fact that Wilwood's kit uses a different offset for the rotor that makes their own bracket significantly different from the LG bracket...

Joe, I just looked in the GCR, but I don't see an SL6R part number specified? Why are you saying the narrow version is the only one allowed without the weight penalty?

sleeper02Z06

That is exactly what it is, the rotor in the wilwood kit is offset from the stock rotor, therefore the bracket in the kit is slightly offset from a stock mounting location. LG makes the bracket so stock rotors can be used with SL6R full width calipers. Garys Hardbar rotors did not work with my wilwood kit until i spaced the ring from the hat another 1/8 inch to get the ring more inboard. I haven't messed with the LG kit, so I cannot comment directly on that. That is why I said not 100% sure. I do know the mounts are different for that reason.

The GCR only states what you said but you will never get any wilwood caliper under a CCW 17 inch wheel within the rules except for the narrow. Any other caliper will be too wide and require the wheel to be spaced out too far to be legal.

sleeper02Z06

I'm not so sure the mounting location is exact for the slims. It would be interesting to know if you could bolt up a slim to the LG caliper and get it under a CCW 17 inch T1 spec wheel, but I kinda doubt it. Plenty of people did this research over a year ago.

As far as strength and rigidity, it does not matter when comparing the different widths of calipers. We are not generating enough brake force or heat for the rigidity and strength of the slim to be questioned, especially in sprint races and very much especially in HPDE's. But, if you are **** like me, you replace them every season no matter what model you use. FWIW Garys rotors needed to be modified as I state in my post above to work in the wilwood "kit".

Joe