CCW classics - disassembly
02-05-2011, 12:47 PM
#1
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CCW classics - disassembly
I'm posting this up here as I know a lot of guys use these for track use.
I have a set of ccw classics and I'm planning on removing the black anodized center section so I can polish the barrels. I've watched the video on CCW's website and disassemble is straigt forward. My question is, can I remove the center section with the tires on the wheel? I didn't know if this would cause an issue with how the 2 halves of the barrels and held together.
I have a set of ccw classics and I'm planning on removing the black anodized center section so I can polish the barrels. I've watched the video on CCW's website and disassemble is straigt forward. My question is, can I remove the center section with the tires on the wheel? I didn't know if this would cause an issue with how the 2 halves of the barrels and held together.
02-05-2011, 12:49 PM
#2
Melting Slicks
I'm posting this up here as I know a lot of guys use these for track use.
I have a set of ccw classics and I'm planning on removing the black anodized center section so I can polish the barrels. I've watched the video on CCW's website and disassemble is straigt forward. My question is, can I remove the center section with the tires on the wheel? I didn't know if this would cause an issue with how the 2 halves of the barrels and held together.
I have a set of ccw classics and I'm planning on removing the black anodized center section so I can polish the barrels. I've watched the video on CCW's website and disassemble is straigt forward. My question is, can I remove the center section with the tires on the wheel? I didn't know if this would cause an issue with how the 2 halves of the barrels and held together.
02-05-2011, 01:19 PM
#3
I have done this in the past...no problem at all. Break the two halves apart, remove the valve stems, and polish away.
On the inside of the barrels the easiest way to clean them up is with an orbital finish sander and 220 grit paper. That gets rid of the big boogers; after that put the sander on top of a Red Scotchbrite pad, then move to silver if you really care that much. I stopped at the red and then just finished up by hand to give the barrels a mild brushed look.
Depending on the damage to your beads, the sander and scotchbrite pad sequence can be used to smooth out everything.
On the exterior lips you can also use the sander followed by the scotchbrite pads...this works very well on to remove small nicks from the outer most portion of the wheels.
Polish with something like Wizards Metal Polish. It is a synthetic wool kind of product with polish/lube in it. Polishing aluminum is a bit messy, but you can get a mirror shine with not a whole bunch of work.
When you put the wheels back together, use 4 bolts first, no silicone, then mount the wheel on the front of the car. Spin it to be sure you have things right by looking at the inside and outside to be sure things spin true. Adjust as needed then put the rest of bolts back in.
Now it is time to reseal the wheels. Apply a generous bead of Silicon RTV around the entire wheel and smooth with your finger. Be sure there are no air bubbles.
Last time I did this, CCW had a short video on their web site showing the procedure of rebuilding the wheels. I believe they may use silicone before any bolts are installed. I wanted to ensure the wheels were true so I applied the silicone later.
On the inside of the barrels the easiest way to clean them up is with an orbital finish sander and 220 grit paper. That gets rid of the big boogers; after that put the sander on top of a Red Scotchbrite pad, then move to silver if you really care that much. I stopped at the red and then just finished up by hand to give the barrels a mild brushed look.
Depending on the damage to your beads, the sander and scotchbrite pad sequence can be used to smooth out everything.
On the exterior lips you can also use the sander followed by the scotchbrite pads...this works very well on to remove small nicks from the outer most portion of the wheels.
Polish with something like Wizards Metal Polish. It is a synthetic wool kind of product with polish/lube in it. Polishing aluminum is a bit messy, but you can get a mirror shine with not a whole bunch of work.
When you put the wheels back together, use 4 bolts first, no silicone, then mount the wheel on the front of the car. Spin it to be sure you have things right by looking at the inside and outside to be sure things spin true. Adjust as needed then put the rest of bolts back in.
Now it is time to reseal the wheels. Apply a generous bead of Silicon RTV around the entire wheel and smooth with your finger. Be sure there are no air bubbles.
Last time I did this, CCW had a short video on their web site showing the procedure of rebuilding the wheels. I believe they may use silicone before any bolts are installed. I wanted to ensure the wheels were true so I applied the silicone later.
Last edited by kmagvette; 02-05-2011 at 01:22 PM.
02-05-2011, 01:45 PM
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crap, well I'm glad I asked, I was afraid that was going to be the case. I'll have to wait until I need new tires to polish them out properly. Thanks for the confirmation.
02-05-2011, 01:51 PM
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I have done this in the past...no problem at all. Break the two halves apart, remove the valve stems, and polish away.
On the inside of the barrels the easiest way to clean them up is with an orbital finish sander and 220 grit paper. That gets rid of the big boogers; after that put the sander on top of a Red Scotchbrite pad, then move to silver if you really care that much. I stopped at the red and then just finished up by hand to give the barrels a mild brushed look.
Depending on the damage to your beads, the sander and scotchbrite pad sequence can be used to smooth out everything.
On the exterior lips you can also use the sander followed by the scotchbrite pads...this works very well on to remove small nicks from the outer most portion of the wheels.
Polish with something like Wizards Metal Polish. It is a synthetic wool kind of product with polish/lube in it. Polishing aluminum is a bit messy, but you can get a mirror shine with not a whole bunch of work.
When you put the wheels back together, use 4 bolts first, no silicone, then mount the wheel on the front of the car. Spin it to be sure you have things right by looking at the inside and outside to be sure things spin true. Adjust as needed then put the rest of bolts back in.
Now it is time to reseal the wheels. Apply a generous bead of Silicon RTV around the entire wheel and smooth with your finger. Be sure there are no air bubbles.
Last time I did this, CCW had a short video on their web site showing the procedure of rebuilding the wheels. I believe they may use silicone before any bolts are installed. I wanted to ensure the wheels were true so I applied the silicone later.
On the inside of the barrels the easiest way to clean them up is with an orbital finish sander and 220 grit paper. That gets rid of the big boogers; after that put the sander on top of a Red Scotchbrite pad, then move to silver if you really care that much. I stopped at the red and then just finished up by hand to give the barrels a mild brushed look.
Depending on the damage to your beads, the sander and scotchbrite pad sequence can be used to smooth out everything.
On the exterior lips you can also use the sander followed by the scotchbrite pads...this works very well on to remove small nicks from the outer most portion of the wheels.
Polish with something like Wizards Metal Polish. It is a synthetic wool kind of product with polish/lube in it. Polishing aluminum is a bit messy, but you can get a mirror shine with not a whole bunch of work.
When you put the wheels back together, use 4 bolts first, no silicone, then mount the wheel on the front of the car. Spin it to be sure you have things right by looking at the inside and outside to be sure things spin true. Adjust as needed then put the rest of bolts back in.
Now it is time to reseal the wheels. Apply a generous bead of Silicon RTV around the entire wheel and smooth with your finger. Be sure there are no air bubbles.
Last time I did this, CCW had a short video on their web site showing the procedure of rebuilding the wheels. I believe they may use silicone before any bolts are installed. I wanted to ensure the wheels were true so I applied the silicone later.
Thanks for the detailed break down. I'll reference back to this once I need new tires and do a proper job of it. I don't think it's worth it to go through the whole process if I can't do it with the tires still on the barrels.
02-05-2011, 03:11 PM
#6
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As long as you let all the air out of the tires and they are the proper size for the wheel, you can remove the center section without having to take the tire off. Once you do that, put a few bolts back in so it doesnt come apart while you are polishing the barrels.
02-07-2011, 11:58 PM
#7
Drifting
Odds of you removing the center section with the tire on (no air) and not breaking the bead? Slim to none.......
Putting it all back together and run the car just to find out your rims are all bleeding off air? Better than average........
Just wait till you swap tires.....in the meantime, I have two complete sets of CCW classics waiting to be polished if you want to practice!!!
Putting it all back together and run the car just to find out your rims are all bleeding off air? Better than average........
Just wait till you swap tires.....in the meantime, I have two complete sets of CCW classics waiting to be polished if you want to practice!!!
