Clutch stop?!?!
#1
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Clutch stop?!?!
Being mad how far I have to push my pedal and it only starts to engage at half the throw. I began in a search for a way to alleviate this and found this thread!(found it on google actually ) This Write up should definitely be in the Ultimate DIY Thread btw! Maybe even in the general too
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...teup-pics.html
Here's the main quote of the product, which later on in the thread you find out its made by ECS!! It was done back in 06 actually lol.
Im wondering how many people have actually installed this? If its really worth the $75 or so price. I cant stand my clutch pedal and how useless MOST of the throw is. ECS Are you guys still selling this? I searched for any other places selling a product like this and found nothing...maybe I shoulda bought an auto?? JK
But would like more input on this and to buy one!
Edit: Another question...What can make the clutch Engage sooner, not just shortening the throw, but maybe 2in. into the pedal it will already be engaging..That would be
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...teup-pics.html
Here's the main quote of the product, which later on in the thread you find out its made by ECS!! It was done back in 06 actually lol.
As you know I have found a clutch pedal stop that is custom made by Carolina Clutch.. I have researched and found that overextending the clutch also contributes to sticky pedal.. My main goal was to help eliminate the sticky pedal syndrome and secondarily increase my shifting speed.
http://www.carolinaclutch.com/ShowItem/110183.aspx
I finally installed and tested it. After looking at it I decided to mod it before installing it... The bolt with the big washer on it is to depress the starter interlock switch and the unheaded bolt is used as the actual STOP. I felt the unheaded bolt was a bit too pointy and could cause a wear point on the floorboard...
Original Stop
I went to Home Depot and replaced it with a 3" Carriage Bolt.. The letters CBH. It is just a bit longer than the original stud and offers more surface area for the stop..
Now to install it.. You need to cut the tab off the side of the clutch pedal to mount this stop.. I used my mini hacksaw. The Tab was only intended to press the start interlock switch.. I found out even without the tab it still works fine..
After it is off, I filed the rough edges smooth..
Here is a pic of it in the mounted position
Here is a pic of it in the fully depressed position. You can clearly see where the stop bolt makes contact with the steel plate on the floor..
I adjusted it so that when the clutch pedal is bottomed out all I need to do is lift about 1/2" and it just starts to engage. I will make this a tad bit more for safety..
The Test Drive... Takes a second to get used to it.. but I love the feel! I noticed the car shifts much smoother now.. Not as jerky when there was 3 extra inches of pedal play before engagement.. And Quick shifting is like lightning now.. Scary fast.. I need get used to it...
I spoke to the owner of Carolina Clutch for quite a while on the phone.. He explained that this is mainly to keep from overextending the clutch. This contributes GREATLY to the Sticky Pedal syndrome as once you are past the release point that centrifical force can keep it there..
http://www.carolinaclutch.com/ShowItem/110183.aspx
I finally installed and tested it. After looking at it I decided to mod it before installing it... The bolt with the big washer on it is to depress the starter interlock switch and the unheaded bolt is used as the actual STOP. I felt the unheaded bolt was a bit too pointy and could cause a wear point on the floorboard...
Original Stop
I went to Home Depot and replaced it with a 3" Carriage Bolt.. The letters CBH. It is just a bit longer than the original stud and offers more surface area for the stop..
Now to install it.. You need to cut the tab off the side of the clutch pedal to mount this stop.. I used my mini hacksaw. The Tab was only intended to press the start interlock switch.. I found out even without the tab it still works fine..
After it is off, I filed the rough edges smooth..
Here is a pic of it in the mounted position
Here is a pic of it in the fully depressed position. You can clearly see where the stop bolt makes contact with the steel plate on the floor..
I adjusted it so that when the clutch pedal is bottomed out all I need to do is lift about 1/2" and it just starts to engage. I will make this a tad bit more for safety..
The Test Drive... Takes a second to get used to it.. but I love the feel! I noticed the car shifts much smoother now.. Not as jerky when there was 3 extra inches of pedal play before engagement.. And Quick shifting is like lightning now.. Scary fast.. I need get used to it...
I spoke to the owner of Carolina Clutch for quite a while on the phone.. He explained that this is mainly to keep from overextending the clutch. This contributes GREATLY to the Sticky Pedal syndrome as once you are past the release point that centrifical force can keep it there..
But would like more input on this and to buy one!
Edit: Another question...What can make the clutch Engage sooner, not just shortening the throw, but maybe 2in. into the pedal it will already be engaging..That would be
Last edited by TriplBlk; 02-08-2011 at 03:42 PM.
#4
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Well I do( I guess) but the clutch literally doesnt engage until half way thru, AND apparently you dont have to go down fully, look what quoted in bold
BTW your old post about your Clutch ***. weighing only 14lbs. got me drooling haha, I knew I recognized your avatar
BTW your old post about your Clutch ***. weighing only 14lbs. got me drooling haha, I knew I recognized your avatar
#5
Race Director
sure,I understand, but there is no harm in a stock setup. Aftermarket clutches require that you be careful not to blow the throwout bearing apart, but this just looks like a lot of trouble.
But if it fits your needs, looks like a nice solution
But if it fits your needs, looks like a nice solution
#6
Team Owner
It works but it is not made anymore last I heard. Few guys knew I had one and ask if I wanted to sell it months after I posted it in the thread. I never put it in but will this winter because all I have is time on my hands I guess it makes for a shift where you can feel it bottom and not waste time going all the way to the bottom.
edit : Looked back at the thread can't believe I have it since 06
edit : Looked back at the thread can't believe I have it since 06
Last edited by John Shiels; 02-08-2011 at 06:43 PM.
#7
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Sounds like you need/want a Tick Master Cyl. This will help your clutch engage sooner. And it's adjustable...no need for the "stop"...
I have one with my McLeod twin-disk clutch...awesome!!!!
#8
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It works but it is not made anymore last I heard. Few guys knew I had one and ask if I wanted to sell it months after I posted it in the thread. I never put it in but will this winter because all I have is time on my hands I guess it makes for a shift where you can feel it bottom and not waste time going all the way to the bottom.
edit : Looked back at the thread can't believe I have it since 06
edit : Looked back at the thread can't believe I have it since 06
Your issue will not be fixed from a clutch 'stop'. A stop is only needed when you're clutch is engaged and you have more travel on depression.
Sounds like you need/want a Tick Master Cyl. This will help your clutch engage sooner. And it's adjustable...no need for the "stop"...
I have one with my McLeod twin-disk clutch...awesome!!!!
Sounds like you need/want a Tick Master Cyl. This will help your clutch engage sooner. And it's adjustable...no need for the "stop"...
I have one with my McLeod twin-disk clutch...awesome!!!!
I may have travel after its engaged too, hard to tell at the moment but Tick is on my list
Btw is it easy to adjust?
#9
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The extra travel can easily be adjusted out.
To adjust, yes, it's easy...two wrenches and a climb under the dash...upside-down. The install is a bit of a bitch, but I found taking the driver's seat out helped greatly.
Try this first, though. Go under the dash and pull out the clutch's helper spring...it really messes with the engagement point feel and may help you enough where you can leave well enough alone. At minimum, it'll help your "feel". I do this to ever car I own, I don't much like the 'assist' the spring gives in the first half of the clutch travel.
Be good,
TomK
Last edited by ace996; 02-08-2011 at 07:37 PM.
#12
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The clutch stops, which we still make and sell regularly, and an adjustable master, which we also make and sell regularly, have two different functions.
The master cylinder allows you to set where the engagement feels best for you, and the stop allows you to not waste effort pushing the pedal farther then it needs to be pushed, which wastes time on shifts. We usually sell that to drag racers more so then road racers, but it certainly can be used either way.
Feel free to call the shop if you would like to discuss this further.609-752-0321
.
The master cylinder allows you to set where the engagement feels best for you, and the stop allows you to not waste effort pushing the pedal farther then it needs to be pushed, which wastes time on shifts. We usually sell that to drag racers more so then road racers, but it certainly can be used either way.
Feel free to call the shop if you would like to discuss this further.609-752-0321
.
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#14
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Everytime someone puts up a clutch stop thread, we have a run on them.
Just an FYI, we have 7 left in stock right now.
Just an FYI, we have 7 left in stock right now.
Last edited by Mike69@ECS; 02-09-2011 at 06:06 PM.
#18
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Man, I"d love 50 cents an hour for labor on my car/mods. If I ever figured out how much I've "invested" (in time and cash) in my car affliction, over the years, I'd no doubt be sick...