vms4evr

I know it has been discussed before but I'd like to resurface this. I have an 02 Z06 so we're talking C5.

I installed Wilwood SL6R setup in the front. Running stock in the back. I'd like to take the C5 front dual piston calipers and move them to the rear. Is this as simple as just bolt it on? Do I need to hack up mounting brackets? I was thinking just disconnect the E-brake and loose it. So I don't care about that part being removed.

For anyone who did this. Is the brake biasing horrible or reasonable? I don't want the back end of the car whipping around on me deep into a hard braking zone. I don't have a bias adjuster and really don't want to use one. Right now the SL6R in the front will pull the nose down and causes me some lockup and sliding even with Hoosiers. I don't feel that the rear is helping quite as much as it could. I also don't want to spend the money on Wilwood 4 piston for the rear. I'd like to just recycle what I have.

Graham

wallyman424

You cannot do that without a brake bias adjuster. I have all the calculations for the piston surface area on my home computer, but if I remember off the top of my head the SL6R has a slightly higher (minimally) area than the stock fronts. The stock rears are about 60% (guess) area compared to the stock fronts, and that ratio needs to be maintained for proper braking. If you put the SL6R's on the front and stock fronts on the rear without a bias adjuster you will be near 1:1 ratio of front to rear brake which will be awful on track. not to mention the long pedal you will experience due to the larger piston surface area.

Putting the brakes on the rear is very easy, just use the front brackets and rotors and it just bolts in. You definitely need a bigger MC and bias adjuster though.

davidfarmer

I've done this, and I don't recommend. Even if you get a larger, truck master cylinder (to compensate for the HUGE increase in piston area), the bias is really screwed up. A bias valve can partially compensate, but the only way to do it right is with a dual-master cyclinder with balance bar.

I converted one of my cars to do this, built a custom bracket to use a Tilton dual-cylinder kit, and it worked fine, but it would have been a lot easier and just a cheap to get a rear kit that actually had the correct pistons in it.

John Shiels

Never seen anyone here happy after they did it. Get some WW SL-4 for the back then all your pads are the same. Works great and pads last a long time. i run a front rotor in the rear.

vms4evr

Thanks guys. I was afraid that would lead into mucking with the master cylinder and bias/proportioning valves. Thought I could just reuse existing equipment to improve the car. I really like the Wilwoods in front. They work well and the pad cost is half what I was paying for the C5 front calipers. I wouldn't mind doing the WW 4 in the rear but don't want to pay another grand or so for them. The rears last plenty fine with the existing caliper and don't taper like crazy like the front did. I'll just leave it alone and go back to tearing up my hood making home made vents... ;-)

wallyman424

If you figure out something that looks good and works let me know!

John Shiels

and with SL-4 on rear you have no Ebrake if you need one for inspection. It does work nicely though!

RAFTRACER

I dont know......I am on StopTechs now...but for many many moons I used the front calipers in the rear and staggered pad compounds to deal with bias issues....never had a low brake pedal until the front brake pads would taper. I used DTC70's in front and HT10's in the rear . Had DRM stainless pistons in the front and DRM/LG brake ducts and splindle ducts...

Not that it makes it right and I have graduated to a BBK set-up obviously , this video was made during the 2008 NASA Nationals with above mentioned brake set-up....Aarons car had StopTechs at the time....enjoy....didn't look like I was lacking braking

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ht6SyV8S8Mw

John Shiels

link seems broken when I tried it?

Jaymz

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ht6SyV8S8Mw


Here is the link..

RAFTRACER

Thanks James...link fixed..

John Shiels

nice run sure they were in the same race as you? Now I know why the call you "D-Man"! Nice aggressive driving with no mercy on the car they way I like to run mine. Congratulations on the win you deserved it! Lucky you didn't get a tailgating ticket! Better than watching WC! You need a cow catcher like a train to just push them out of the way!

vms4evr

Well Wally there is the catch. Looks good and works. I'm 1 for 2. But I only spent $50 doing it. You want both and tested you need to see ACP and get that Magna Extractor hood. That would be my choice. But I don't think he'll part with it for $50. More like $1500... ;-)

I cut the hood open above the space between the radiator and nose of the block. Mounted a cheap scoop in reverse. Probably not the best aero solution, ain't pretty, as it doesn't go with the Vette so good. Something that should be on a Chevelle or something facing forward. My radiator is running cooler and stabilizes the temp a little better. When you stop even on a simple commute in the car you can feel a lot of heat coming out of the scoop. So it must be doing something on the road.

I also made small cuts behind the headlights and installed small vents. The inner fender is cut below them to let some pressure and heat escape the engine bay and wheel well. Those need to be much bigger.

Those vents are all cheap looking carbon fiber knocks off that you would find at Pep Boys for cheap. I'm just toying around.

Next I'm thinking of pulling the center scoop and doing an old L88 style C3 hood vent and making a small wicker bill to put on the cut I made in the hood. The knock versions of those C3 scoops are also cheap. I haven't decided which scoops to put for brake vents. The ACP ones are $250 each. Again, more than what I want to spend.

Graham

vms4evr

Danny,

You ran C5 fronts on all 4 corners? Just staggering the pads? That's interesting. Given your driving record I'd say that was a good poor mans solution. I was staggering my pads on the stock setup anyway after hearing lots of people say it. Then Joe A. told me to just try DTC70s on all 4 corners. It works pretty good. Right now I have DTC70 in the SL6s and DTC60s in the stock rears. I still think the fronts are way overpowering the rears. It may just be perception though.

I could mix something like you did. For the C5 fronts mounted in the rear. I've got plenty of extra stock Z06 pads and some left over XP8s and XP10s I could test.

Graham

CP Thunder

Damn.........I watched that video and SWEAR I could smell pads and tires here in my living room............

trackboss

Awesome driving Danny! Reminds me of my driving style back when I used to race.

John Shiels

Wilwood SL-4 caliper number is KN-1206544-FS a few people ask.

"ZOSICKS"

Would c5z calipers work all the way around for a street car, my car doesnt see a track. Should the pads still be staggered? Will it mess with my master cylinder, or is it just not worth it?

John Shiels

Work? Yes. Worth it no, just read above.

sothpaw2

Stock C5Z pads suck. Too mild even in rear w/C5 fronts in rear. Hopefully Xp10 will do the job for you.