Front tie rode ends = rear tie rod ends???????
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
Front tie rode ends = rear tie rod ends NOT!
I was going to buy some Moog's from Rock Auto & all they list is pn es2231rl front outer.
Are the rears the same or not? I heard maybe different lenght or hole depth?
Is there a l/r difference?
Thanks
2004 c5Z
Are the rears the same or not? I heard maybe different lenght or hole depth?
Is there a l/r difference?
Thanks
2004 c5Z
Last edited by froggy47; 02-24-2011 at 08:10 PM.
#2
Race Director
I don't know if they are the same, but I'm pretty sure they are interchangeable. Just make sure you have enough threads to get full penetration. Running lots of camber sometimes causes them to be unscrewed a LOT.
#3
Le Mans Master
Not 100% sure for the C5, but the C4 all 4 of the outer tie rod ends are the same.
#4
Melting Slicks
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For C5/C6 they are not the same, the rears are about 3/4" longer than the fronts.
I used to think the same thing, untill I tried putting fronts on the rear. No worky, not enough thread.
GM/Delco part numbers:
88910455 Front
88955488 Rear
Same part number LH to RH.
I also believe that the C6 Z06 rear tie rod ends are different than the standard C5/C6, I've swapped a C5 rear for a C6Z rear and tried putting them in the same spot (didn't move the lock nut) and needed to re-align afterward.
Here's the C6Z rear part number:
88964323 Rear
I used to think the same thing, untill I tried putting fronts on the rear. No worky, not enough thread.
GM/Delco part numbers:
88910455 Front
88955488 Rear
Same part number LH to RH.
I also believe that the C6 Z06 rear tie rod ends are different than the standard C5/C6, I've swapped a C5 rear for a C6Z rear and tried putting them in the same spot (didn't move the lock nut) and needed to re-align afterward.
Here's the C6Z rear part number:
88964323 Rear
Last edited by 96CollectorSport; 02-23-2011 at 12:00 PM.
#5
Le Mans Master
Well carp! I need to change my rears after this season
#6
Race Director
but it sounds like the rears will work on the front, and for a high-camber application, this could be a good thing to get extra threads. I know the VBP ends have more threads.
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smitty2919 (07-07-2020)
#8
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Do you have to run stock parts due to rules?
I would do a bump steer kit and be done with it. No more burnt boots, and grease flying all over the place.
Not only that you can correct for bump steer geometry.
I would do a bump steer kit and be done with it. No more burnt boots, and grease flying all over the place.
Not only that you can correct for bump steer geometry.
#9
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smitty2919 (07-07-2020)
#11
Race Director
Thread Starter
I am out of stock class so I could probably do that, but I am only lowered on stock adjusters so I really don't have bump steer problems that I can tell.
I am not going lower, unless I take it off the street.
So this kit replaces the tie rod end with a heim joint & raises up the angle of the steering arm back near stock?
It looks like the adj sway links with a taper/cone to fit the knuckle.
Noisy for a street/track car?
Last edited by froggy47; 02-24-2011 at 11:35 AM.
#12
Melting Slicks
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You can get a set of Baer Tracker's from Jegs for around $170, the nice thing about them besides being able to adjust the bump is that if the heim joint wears out you just replace the heim not the whole bump steer kit.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Baer-Brake/136...oductId=759921
You can use these front and rear on a C5/C6 not sure about the C6Z.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Baer-Brake/136...oductId=759921
You can use these front and rear on a C5/C6 not sure about the C6Z.
#13
Race Director
Thread Starter
You can get a set of Baer Tracker's from Jegs for around $170, the nice thing about them besides being able to adjust the bump is that if the heim joint wears out you just replace the heim not the whole bump steer kit.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Baer-Brake/136...oductId=759921
You can use these front and rear on a C5/C6 not sure about the C6Z.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Baer-Brake/136...oductId=759921
You can use these front and rear on a C5/C6 not sure about the C6Z.
How do you set it up? Just use a straight edge off the arm?
Last edited by froggy47; 02-24-2011 at 11:36 AM.
#14
Melting Slicks
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I eyeballed it the best I could (I have some blocks I set the car on when I adjust sway bar end links). Then I had the alignment shop double check it once it was on the turn plates.
Really once you buy the Tracker kit, just take down the part number on the Heim joint (I believe it's an Aurora part #) just go online and buy a few as back-ups.
Really once you buy the Tracker kit, just take down the part number on the Heim joint (I believe it's an Aurora part #) just go online and buy a few as back-ups.
#15
Safety Car
I have had trouble finding the rears. I 've got a bad one. I ordered some from ecklers 7 days ago and they haven't even shipped. Screw those guys, I need one tomorrow, I am going to Road Atlanta.
#16
Race Director
Thread Starter
Is bump steer corrected for on front or rear or both?
I know it's change in toe as the suspension moves thru its range, but seems like that could happen on each end.
The more I know, the more I don't know.
I know it's change in toe as the suspension moves thru its range, but seems like that could happen on each end.
The more I know, the more I don't know.
#17
Safety Car
Maybe I'm abnormal, but I've never had issues w/ the stockers once you wrap them in DEI cool-tape.
The pice on those Baer ones is quite good. VB&P wants over $100 each for their HD rod-ends.
The pice on those Baer ones is quite good. VB&P wants over $100 each for their HD rod-ends.
#19
Burning Brakes
Does the Baer or LG heim joints work on the rear of a C5Z??
I'm needing to ditch my stockers and get some beefed up monsters. I generate a lot of heat... and I'm lazy with maintenance.
I'm needing to ditch my stockers and get some beefed up monsters. I generate a lot of heat... and I'm lazy with maintenance.
#20
Race Director
Thread Starter
I'm thinking Moog. The more I research bump steer the less I think it's even an issue with a c5z that's riding pretty tight.
When I set up to run, there is barely any suspension movement, maybe 2.5 inches IF I hit a big dip. Otherwise about 1.5 near as I can tell.
I have done the tie warp on shock shaft trick & it just does not seem that there is much movement.
I don't want to fix a problem that does not exist.
When I set up to run, there is barely any suspension movement, maybe 2.5 inches IF I hit a big dip. Otherwise about 1.5 near as I can tell.
I have done the tie warp on shock shaft trick & it just does not seem that there is much movement.
I don't want to fix a problem that does not exist.