sperkins

So after taking a brick through the winshield in my last race and since my glass guy has completely dropped the ball on replacing it, I'm pretty much forced to attempt to install a lexan windshield in my C5 since I have a race this weekend.

I am picking up a 4x8 sheet of 3/16 abrassion resistant polycarbonate today and will begin the install tonight and will have no help during the process.

The questions I have for those of you who have done this are:
1. Will 3/16 polycarbonate be flexible enough to conform to the OE glass using the factory glass as a template or will the piece need to be heated into shape? (I've already traced a template of the factory glass for cutting purposes)

2. The exterior bracing seems pretty straightforward, but the inside brace looks like it will be tricky. I plan to use 1/4" x 2 aluminum flat bar for the inside support (if I can get it in there) and 1/8" x2 for the exterior brace. Any tips?


What else guys???

travisnd

Just wait for Friday night at Mark's house... we can git r dun

sperkins

Trying to avoid that since I've seen first hand what still needs to be done to his car.
Plus - I take the track Friday morning.

davidfarmer

I have only used preformed lexan. It is pretty brittle and I can't imagine forcing it to confirm, but ive not actually done it


Id recommend channel for the inside bracing. If you have z metal brake, even very thin channel willbe much stronger and more rigid than flat stock. Also, you only need tabs on the outside if it fits well. Again, FIT is the key. If air can get under the windshield it will likely blow it right out

geerookie

Real polycarbonate/Lexan is not very brittle and bends quite easily without breaking.

When I did my rear window I tried to use Plexiglass instead of polycarbonate since it is clearer and doesn't scratch as easily.
That wasn't fun. It broke three times while cutting before I even got to the point of trying to install. Once I finally got a piece cut I had it all the way in except for about the last 4 rivets and then it shattered! I was fuming.

I went and bought the polycarbonate, cut it and put it in in about 2 hours by myself without a single incident.
It was very easy to work with and conformed to the back window of a coupe with absolutley no heat or frustration.
I was using 1/8" so 3/16" will be stiffer but the curve on the front windshield is not near as severe as the back window on a coupe.

I agree with David, angle for a brace, not flat stock.

sperkins

Thanks guys. Question about using angle or channel for the inside brace.
If the window is curved, how can you put a straight piece of angle or channel in there? 1/4" alum is pretty strong and can be bent to fit. With the arc in the flat bar, wouldn't it be even stronger? With that said, I'm still not sure it could withstand 150mph windshield forces.
I'm definately interested in doing it right - I just don't fully understand yet.

bosco022

On our Rolex Vette we used three 1" wide alum angle from Lowe's on the inside. One was about dead center, the other two equally spaced left and right. They are supported by the little alum rod/braces used to support late model stock car rear spoilers. The middle rod goes from the channel to a tab welded on the Earnhardt bar, the others down to the dash.

We also put on top of the channel the peel n stick 1" wide rubber insulation form Lowe's to help make a tight fit to the windshield.

If you had more time you could get some nice window braces from fivestar stock car bodies

trackboss

Couple tips from my experience:
Do not permanently secure the windshield. That means no rivets. Best way is to either float the window and use tabs screwed (properly no sheetmetal screws, etc.) to the surround or quick fasteners. I've seen people use a ton of fasteners which is completely unecessary. I use dzus fasteners. Last one I did had four across the top and 3 down each side. None on the bottom.
Having the ability to quickly, and easily, remove the windshield will make life much easier. It is nice to be able to reach through the windshield area to access things like m/c reserviors and such.
I used a pre-formed windshield, but it still required trimming that took a few hours to get a perfect fit, but it did make things easier. 3/16" may be ok with proper support, but I used 1/4" and even though I installed some support it was unecessary with the exception of safety (large debris possibly hitting windshield, etc.)
The scratch resistant coatings are great, but resistant is the key word. I plan on installing tear offs on top next time around.