brakes still acting up after bleeding
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
brakes still acting up after bleeding
well i finally got the vette out and fully charged last night went for a ride and the pedal was still feeling funny, this is after my front caliper cleaning and tear down. the pedal is rock hard but will lock up to abs almost instantaneous. so i went into a undeveloped area and with traction control off, (1 push, couldn't turn active handling all way off since didnt program tires) well the front left wheel locked up and would push the front tire if i kept driving would create a flat spot and not roll at all, liked a locked up wheel, so i stopped tried to take off again and still locked up. so i pressed real hard on brake pedal a few times then it freed up. i put in reverse for a few feet then drive. then it worked ok.
i headed straight home and tried not to use the brakes.
any suggestions? i thinking air in the lines still? the wheel locked up after i did a hard stop on the brakes to try to get the right pedal feel.
i am going to try another pressure bleed all the way around while letting the liquid gold (srf) flow out the bleeders. i did cycle abs mutiple times to try to get any trapped air out.
i headed straight home and tried not to use the brakes.
any suggestions? i thinking air in the lines still? the wheel locked up after i did a hard stop on the brakes to try to get the right pedal feel.
i am going to try another pressure bleed all the way around while letting the liquid gold (srf) flow out the bleeders. i did cycle abs mutiple times to try to get any trapped air out.
#4
Race Director
You say you had a solid pedal.
It sounds to me like maybe air in the ABS circuits in the lines to the BPMV. In that case you'd probably have a solid pedal until the ABS activated and the lines with air in them went into action.
If so, you'll need a Tech 2 to cycle those ABS valves during bleeding.
Bob
#5
Race Director
Thread Starter
Hey Derek
You say you had a solid pedal.
It sounds to me like maybe air in the ABS circuits in the lines to the BPMV. In that case you'd probably have a solid pedal until the ABS activated and the lines with air in them went into action.
If so, you'll need a Tech 2 to cycle those ABS valves during bleeding.
Bob
You say you had a solid pedal.
It sounds to me like maybe air in the ABS circuits in the lines to the BPMV. In that case you'd probably have a solid pedal until the ABS activated and the lines with air in them went into action.
If so, you'll need a Tech 2 to cycle those ABS valves during bleeding.
Bob
thanks bob that is what i have read from previous post i am i am going to try 1 more bleed to see what i can get out, otherwise going to try the tech 2 route, this srf is expensive to have to bleed out but what can ya do!
#6
Tech Contributor
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Even with air in the BPMV the brake should not lock up. The unit would cycle as soon as the EBCM detected the wheel speed at that wheel going to zero. Any air in the unit might bleed out into the line and effectively further reduce brake pressure. You may have air in the unit but I suspect you have some other more direct issue. Something is causing the caliper to lock the wheel and that means there is a mechanical problem out at the caliper doing something. I am not sure what the EBCM would do if the ABS couldn't release the caliper. It might throw a code but you didn't mention seeing the ABS light on the I/P.
Bill
Bill
#10
Team Owner
bad booster will give you a hard high pedal in many vehicles or as stated above brake lines can collapse creating a one-way valve but the brakes usually work they just don't release.
#14
Le Mans Master
I had an ABS sensor go bad on my C6Z and it did EXACTLY what you are talking about. (mine was in the rear). I got the dealer to replace the sensor under warranty and it fixed the issue.
#16
Melting Slicks
#17
Team Owner
#18
Drifting
Wheel off
Lug nuts on backwards to hold rotor against hub.
Start engine & apply brakes.
Engine off. Did caliper release?
If not crack line at frame. Did caliper release?
If not crack line at caliper. Did caliper release?
If not piston jammed in bore.
This might help isolate where the problem is. Good luck.
Lug nuts on backwards to hold rotor against hub.
Start engine & apply brakes.
Engine off. Did caliper release?
If not crack line at frame. Did caliper release?
If not crack line at caliper. Did caliper release?
If not piston jammed in bore.
This might help isolate where the problem is. Good luck.
#19
Race Director
Thread Starter
Wheel off
Lug nuts on backwards to hold rotor against hub.
Start engine & apply brakes.
Engine off. Did caliper release?
If not crack line at frame. Did caliper release?
If not crack line at caliper. Did caliper release?
If not piston jammed in bore.
This might help isolate where the problem is. Good luck.
Lug nuts on backwards to hold rotor against hub.
Start engine & apply brakes.
Engine off. Did caliper release?
If not crack line at frame. Did caliper release?
If not crack line at caliper. Did caliper release?
If not piston jammed in bore.
This might help isolate where the problem is. Good luck.
#20
Team Owner
metal shavings you had. I had a rough terrain forklift (Lull) and I could not diagnose hydraulic functions that wouldn't work. Few minute pieces of metal in a few places. 3+ weeks and 10 grand later it was fixed. Dealer was going nuts to find out what was wrong going back and forth with the factory.