Engine is out, DRY SUMP TIME?
#1
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Engine is out, DRY SUMP TIME?
Well as the engine had to come out of the bay anyway, how much more is involved in getting a dry sump installed if its already out. I know the parts are costly i am sure in themselves.... but more how much extra labor would you guys guess.
Never cheap to pull the engine, so i am wondering if its more efficient to do it now?
Any thoughts or past experience on this topic would be helpful.
Thanks
Never cheap to pull the engine, so i am wondering if its more efficient to do it now?
Any thoughts or past experience on this topic would be helpful.
Thanks
#3
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Wow well i think its time to save up for that, more than I can spend right now if its that much in parts. I am just getting to the point with my 403ci without the drysump and even R888s i am on the edge of pressure issues as it is and I am not even on slicks yet.
Sounds like my favorite hobby will take some money savings for now and be on HOLD.
Sounds like my favorite hobby will take some money savings for now and be on HOLD.
#4
Safety Car
No idea on time to do that but wanted to say that I'm very sorry to hear that. You were asking questions earlier about pressure & temps and I think just starting the season.
Edit: be sure that someone is not pulling your leg and that the engine really must come out. On my C4, I went around and around with the mechanic and he told me the engine won't last with this very minor scratch on the crankshaft. I pulled the engine and I really regretted it. He was not qualifed to make the call.
Edit: be sure that someone is not pulling your leg and that the engine really must come out. On my C4, I went around and around with the mechanic and he told me the engine won't last with this very minor scratch on the crankshaft. I pulled the engine and I really regretted it. He was not qualifed to make the call.
#5
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Im in the same boat you are, new motor and I wanted to do a drysump. It would be easier to do most of the install with the motor out but everything Ive heard, including from my shop is not to underestimate this job.. running all the proper lines and getting everything to fit well and not leak is quite a task... .expect 4-5k in parts and 1-2k in labour.. do you spend now...or spend later? welcome to the hobby
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Well thanks guys for the help. I am guessing the shop will tell me about the same things as well as they have been fair so far on pricing. I am just at that point to continue to push the car and the limits it is something I am going to need. Well back to saving for more than one thing, but at least I am working on the car a my somewhat younger age, by the time the car is ready i should be pretty well set up to thrash it and have it keep coming back for more. 27 years old and hooked, hopefully i have a long future in the hobby if i can keep things going.
#9
Safety Car
Buy a stock LS6 and beat the crap out of it for years... they seem to hold up much better than the LS2 and LS3 based motors. I could buy 2 crate motors for what you're going to spend to have a shop install a dry-sump.
#11
I installed the drysump last year without removing the engine. The only engine issue is the pan. You have to drop the cradle and suspend the engine in order to install the pan. Not as difficult as it seems with the right brace.
Wally is right, about $4-$5k
Worth it to me, not to watch gauges all the time.
Wally is right, about $4-$5k
Worth it to me, not to watch gauges all the time.
#13
Team Owner
when you build a 383 from scratch it will require a lot more cost than a crate motor. Everything will have to be balanced and assembled. My accusump has worked fine for years on an LS6. When I had to chose where my dollar would go it was mostly engine (big) or LS6 with H&C and all the coolers on the car.
#14
Burning Brakes
I blew my H/C LS6 w/ dry sump after high levels of abuse... Not oil related. :p
I vote dry sump if you got a pricey engine, doubley so if your using a Gen 4 engine block.
If my LS7 ever blows... Im going back to the venerable LS6.
I vote dry sump if you got a pricey engine, doubley so if your using a Gen 4 engine block.
If my LS7 ever blows... Im going back to the venerable LS6.
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I think the pressure may have gotten a bit low, shocking right...
Well i started to notice in the following week right around 2k RPMs this wierd knocking sound.
When they had it on a lift they heard it was near the back of the crankshaft.
Well i started to notice in the following week right around 2k RPMs this wierd knocking sound.
When they had it on a lift they heard it was near the back of the crankshaft.
#17
Burning Brakes
From my observations of opinions and whatnot:
If you have a LS 1,2,3,7,9 AND have track tires; you are going to be living on a smaller amount of borrowed time
If you have a LS6 AND have semi-streetable tires, you have a lot more borrowed time.
If you're in between the two, you are in a crap shoot. Remember, stock C6Z's with R6's have blown engines. Stock C5Z's with R6's have a fared better in my observation.
Some upsides on why doing dry sump now is worth it:
If you seriously blow an engine, all you gotta do is blow the chunks out of the lines and pump, worst case scenario is a rod through pan (in my case, Gary@ARE was the winkest link getting a pan out to me :p ).
Last edited by OKsweetrides; 03-24-2011 at 09:49 PM.
#18
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Well as the engine had to come out of the bay anyway, how much more is involved in getting a dry sump installed if its already out. I know the parts are costly i am sure in themselves.... but more how much extra labor would you guys guess.
Never cheap to pull the engine, so i am wondering if its more efficient to do it now?
Any thoughts or past experience on this topic would be helpful.
Thanks
Never cheap to pull the engine, so i am wondering if its more efficient to do it now?
Any thoughts or past experience on this topic would be helpful.
Thanks
#20
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I think with the sticky tires and it being an LS2 I need to save up and do it right with an ARE dry sump, probably a bigger radiator and oil cooler, Ron Davis or Dewitts. All those parts and the labor probably about 10k. Shot in the dark but I don't think its too far off.
I hear if i run hard even with R888s and pull over 1.1g in a turn, Hoosiers would only be worse I am sure, I am on borrowed time through each corner, and i would rather save up and make the engine and oil system Race ready, than perhaps blow a motor at some point again.
Takes me off the racetrack for a while becuse I am not one to go out there and drive it gingerly. Wouldn't hurt I guess to take it slow and really work on lines, but wheres the fun in that.
Enjoy your 04Z06 man, from what i hear the LS6 is a great car to run out there. Me ill have to turn mine into practically a race car to get back out there, but at that point I won't have to look down at the oil pressure guage during a turn thats for sure.
When I come back ill be ready to do it right.
I hear if i run hard even with R888s and pull over 1.1g in a turn, Hoosiers would only be worse I am sure, I am on borrowed time through each corner, and i would rather save up and make the engine and oil system Race ready, than perhaps blow a motor at some point again.
Takes me off the racetrack for a while becuse I am not one to go out there and drive it gingerly. Wouldn't hurt I guess to take it slow and really work on lines, but wheres the fun in that.
Enjoy your 04Z06 man, from what i hear the LS6 is a great car to run out there. Me ill have to turn mine into practically a race car to get back out there, but at that point I won't have to look down at the oil pressure guage during a turn thats for sure.
When I come back ill be ready to do it right.