Poly bushing question
#1
Instructor
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Poly bushing question
Now that I am committed to TT events, the next step is getting the car set-up for better handling, cornering, etc. I am seriously considering having poly bushing installed.
1. Are all poly bushings created equal? Any preference and why?
2. How long do they typically last before needing to be replaced?
3. Sometimes I read where other forum members suggest putting grease fittings in them. Is this really neccessary?
1. Are all poly bushings created equal? Any preference and why?
2. How long do they typically last before needing to be replaced?
3. Sometimes I read where other forum members suggest putting grease fittings in them. Is this really neccessary?
#2
Safety Car
1. I've installed the VB&P kit and the Pfadt kit. The Pfadt kit seems to be of higher quality and it's what I have on my current TTA car.
2. They really don't need to be replaced.... they won't squish out like the OEM rubber ones due to the way they're designed.
3. I don't think so... you'll see people on here complain about "stiction" and the A-arms binding etc. etc. I really don't see this as an issue when you've got 3000lbs of car on top of the tires with the G-loading present.
When mine were 100% brand new freshly installed the A-arms were stiff to move up/down just becuase they bushings were tight in the areas the arms slide into. I for one would never drill a cast aluminum a-arm.
Once you're running camber-blocks taking the A-arms on-off and not messing you allignment up is pretty easy. You could take the arms off and re-grease in the off-season if you felt the need. I put mine in this winter after the December RA event and have run February at VIR, March at RA, and March VIR on them... they feel amazing and I dont plan on touching them until the end of the 2012 season really; if at all.
My $0.02
2. They really don't need to be replaced.... they won't squish out like the OEM rubber ones due to the way they're designed.
3. I don't think so... you'll see people on here complain about "stiction" and the A-arms binding etc. etc. I really don't see this as an issue when you've got 3000lbs of car on top of the tires with the G-loading present.
When mine were 100% brand new freshly installed the A-arms were stiff to move up/down just becuase they bushings were tight in the areas the arms slide into. I for one would never drill a cast aluminum a-arm.
Once you're running camber-blocks taking the A-arms on-off and not messing you allignment up is pretty easy. You could take the arms off and re-grease in the off-season if you felt the need. I put mine in this winter after the December RA event and have run February at VIR, March at RA, and March VIR on them... they feel amazing and I dont plan on touching them until the end of the 2012 season really; if at all.
My $0.02
#3
Racer
I have done both, I like the Pfadt kit. Plus Pfadt supports us NASA racers
#4
Instructor
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I have not run the first TT event and it is already $$$. Glad I have a position where I can work harder and make a little more commission, I am going to need it!
#5
Safety Car
Have you actually done this yet? I know some of those pins were a PITA to get in so I assume you don't mean doing this on the car? I.e. unbolt the upper arm, re-lube, attach, then do the lower? You have to take it all off and take it to the press?
#6
Racer
#7
Safety Car
geerookie had what sounded like stiction problems, leading to a crash. Lube regularly (3-6mos).
Convert the Pfadts to 2 piece style all around (like VP&B) and install is much easier.
Careful with grease fittings - the area around the pin is what needs to be lubed, you don't want to lube the area btw the bushing and the control arm. If you can get a grease fitting to feed the proper area, and you are confident that you can properly install the grease fittings, go for it.
I am getting delirin installed and will sell my poly arms w/Pfadt bushings if interested.
Convert the Pfadts to 2 piece style all around (like VP&B) and install is much easier.
Careful with grease fittings - the area around the pin is what needs to be lubed, you don't want to lube the area btw the bushing and the control arm. If you can get a grease fitting to feed the proper area, and you are confident that you can properly install the grease fittings, go for it.
I am getting delirin installed and will sell my poly arms w/Pfadt bushings if interested.
#8
Drifting
I got a quote from Vengenance Racing in Atlanta to install the Pfadt poly bushings for $570. That did not include grease fittings and I don't know if it included the alignment.
I'm have mine done in July at Vengenance.
Jim
I'm have mine done in July at Vengenance.
Jim
#9
Burning Brakes
I installed the Pfadt bushing kit. I haven't seen alternatives first hand but I completely agree the whole kit is very high quality.
The grease that comes with the Pfadt kit is crazy stuff. Incredibly sticky, kind of like tree sap sticky, once its on your hands you CAN NOT get it off without a solvent. It will last a very long time. (You can buy it from Summit Racing by the way, Hotchkiss grease for poly bushings). Using it I doubt there is any need to re-grease more than once a year, if that.
But none-the-less, I did install the zerks (doing it the right way as RX-Ben alludes to) and I have to tell you I'm happy with the results. I just relubed them last week and its an absolute breeze. If you don't have the zerks, I can see the top A-arm mounts being pretty easy but not the bottoms. I had a bitch of a time getting those in during the install and have no desire to repeat that.
The grease that comes with the Pfadt kit is crazy stuff. Incredibly sticky, kind of like tree sap sticky, once its on your hands you CAN NOT get it off without a solvent. It will last a very long time. (You can buy it from Summit Racing by the way, Hotchkiss grease for poly bushings). Using it I doubt there is any need to re-grease more than once a year, if that.
But none-the-less, I did install the zerks (doing it the right way as RX-Ben alludes to) and I have to tell you I'm happy with the results. I just relubed them last week and its an absolute breeze. If you don't have the zerks, I can see the top A-arm mounts being pretty easy but not the bottoms. I had a bitch of a time getting those in during the install and have no desire to repeat that.
#10
Race Director
I installed the Pfadt bushing kit. I haven't seen alternatives first hand but I completely agree the whole kit is very high quality.
The grease that comes with the Pfadt kit is crazy stuff. Incredibly sticky, kind of like tree sap sticky, once its on your hands you CAN NOT get it off without a solvent. It will last a very long time. (You can buy it from Summit Racing by the way, Hotchkiss grease for poly bushings). Using it I doubt there is any need to re-grease more than once a year, if that.
But none-the-less, I did install the zerks (doing it the right way as RX-Ben alludes to) and I have to tell you I'm happy with the results. I just relubed them last week and its an absolute breeze. If you don't have the zerks, I can see the top A-arm mounts being pretty easy but not the bottoms. I had a bitch of a time getting those in during the install and have no desire to repeat that.
The grease that comes with the Pfadt kit is crazy stuff. Incredibly sticky, kind of like tree sap sticky, once its on your hands you CAN NOT get it off without a solvent. It will last a very long time. (You can buy it from Summit Racing by the way, Hotchkiss grease for poly bushings). Using it I doubt there is any need to re-grease more than once a year, if that.
But none-the-less, I did install the zerks (doing it the right way as RX-Ben alludes to) and I have to tell you I'm happy with the results. I just relubed them last week and its an absolute breeze. If you don't have the zerks, I can see the top A-arm mounts being pretty easy but not the bottoms. I had a bitch of a time getting those in during the install and have no desire to repeat that.
Did you regrease with the "sticky" grease or some regular grease? I would think the sticky grease is hard to use in a grease gun.
#11
Safety Car
I installed the Pfadt bushing kit. I haven't seen alternatives first hand but I completely agree the whole kit is very high quality.
The grease that comes with the Pfadt kit is crazy stuff. Incredibly sticky, kind of like tree sap sticky, once its on your hands you CAN NOT get it off without a solvent. It will last a very long time. (You can buy it from Summit Racing by the way, Hotchkiss grease for poly bushings). Using it I doubt there is any need to re-grease more than once a year, if that.
But none-the-less, I did install the zerks (doing it the right way as RX-Ben alludes to) and I have to tell you I'm happy with the results. I just relubed them last week and its an absolute breeze. If you don't have the zerks, I can see the top A-arm mounts being pretty easy but not the bottoms. I had a bitch of a time getting those in during the install and have no desire to repeat that.
The grease that comes with the Pfadt kit is crazy stuff. Incredibly sticky, kind of like tree sap sticky, once its on your hands you CAN NOT get it off without a solvent. It will last a very long time. (You can buy it from Summit Racing by the way, Hotchkiss grease for poly bushings). Using it I doubt there is any need to re-grease more than once a year, if that.
But none-the-less, I did install the zerks (doing it the right way as RX-Ben alludes to) and I have to tell you I'm happy with the results. I just relubed them last week and its an absolute breeze. If you don't have the zerks, I can see the top A-arm mounts being pretty easy but not the bottoms. I had a bitch of a time getting those in during the install and have no desire to repeat that.
#12
Burning Brakes
#13
Le Mans Master
Vengeance does good work, but just like any performance shop they are expensive. I recently did poly bushings, custom camber blocks, alignment and a corner balance for less than that for a fellow forum member.
#14
Burning Brakes
Here is a little more info on my use of zerk fittings and the Pfadt bushings with their sticky grease:
I installed the bushings about a year ago and while doing so went ahead and intalled zerk fittings at all the suspension mounting points. About two weeks ago I relubed the fronts and then yesterday did the rears. On the drivers side rear upper A-arm I had made a mistake back when I installed the zerks and put them in a spot which precluded access to the fittings. So I had to unbolt the upper shock mount and the the two upper mount points and pull the A-Arm free to get at the zerks. This provided a great opportunity to see the zerks in operation.
The bushings consist of two parts - the outer poly part and then an inner metal bushing. You want the lube to be inbetween the poly material and this inner metal bushing. The poly part even has grooves in it to maintain the grease. So once I had the A-arm free of its mounts I hooked up the grease gun. The result was gratifying in two ways: 1) the zerk worked perfectly, exactly how it was suppose to - as I pumped, the grease started to come out both ends of the bushing, right between the poly portion and the inner metal sleeve. 2) lots of old grease came out (black color). This tells me that the crazy, sticky, gooey grease Pfadt supplies with their kit and which I first put in there a year ago was still there. That speaks well of its longevity and makes me question whether or not relube is needed on an annual basis (although since I installed the zerks its a no brainer for me).
I installed the bushings about a year ago and while doing so went ahead and intalled zerk fittings at all the suspension mounting points. About two weeks ago I relubed the fronts and then yesterday did the rears. On the drivers side rear upper A-arm I had made a mistake back when I installed the zerks and put them in a spot which precluded access to the fittings. So I had to unbolt the upper shock mount and the the two upper mount points and pull the A-Arm free to get at the zerks. This provided a great opportunity to see the zerks in operation.
The bushings consist of two parts - the outer poly part and then an inner metal bushing. You want the lube to be inbetween the poly material and this inner metal bushing. The poly part even has grooves in it to maintain the grease. So once I had the A-arm free of its mounts I hooked up the grease gun. The result was gratifying in two ways: 1) the zerk worked perfectly, exactly how it was suppose to - as I pumped, the grease started to come out both ends of the bushing, right between the poly portion and the inner metal sleeve. 2) lots of old grease came out (black color). This tells me that the crazy, sticky, gooey grease Pfadt supplies with their kit and which I first put in there a year ago was still there. That speaks well of its longevity and makes me question whether or not relube is needed on an annual basis (although since I installed the zerks its a no brainer for me).
#15
Terminal Vette Addict
Have you read the Sticky:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...e-learned.html
Lots of details in the Bushings section of brands, issues with each brand, etc...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...e-learned.html
Lots of details in the Bushings section of brands, issues with each brand, etc...
#16
Drifting
I've got the VB&P kit. I wouldnt use it (or any poly) again.
I think I've decided to build a hybrid setup, with delrin in the front LCAs (i've got them setup square) and in the rear UCAs. Those places that don't need (or can be setup to not have) an angular displacement.
I'll put in sphericals in the other places, but thats going to take some work to figure out.
I probably ought to steal another set of upper front arms, and lower rears so I can figure it all out without taking the car offline for the 6mos it'll take me to build this. And of course, I should get my lathe working first.
I think I've decided to build a hybrid setup, with delrin in the front LCAs (i've got them setup square) and in the rear UCAs. Those places that don't need (or can be setup to not have) an angular displacement.
I'll put in sphericals in the other places, but thats going to take some work to figure out.
I probably ought to steal another set of upper front arms, and lower rears so I can figure it all out without taking the car offline for the 6mos it'll take me to build this. And of course, I should get my lathe working first.
#17
Instructor
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Have you read the Sticky:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...e-learned.html
Lots of details in the Bushings section of brands, issues with each brand, etc...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...e-learned.html
Lots of details in the Bushings section of brands, issues with each brand, etc...
Other comments are welcomed as I am not into making a suspension change that will require constant repairs/maintenance. I don't have a shop with a lift, so for me it is tough to do suspension work. I was of the opinion that the polybushings were a great improvement and relatively maintenace free.
#19
Drifting
I installed the Pfadt kit and have not looked back ... I did put the fittings in but have not needed them yet ... will check at 1 year mark and see if they need additional lube :-)
#20
Le Mans Master
No, I had not read anything regarding poly bushings except what OEM suppliers are advertising. Negative feedback is news to me. "This is food for thought however"
Other comments are welcomed as I am not into making a suspension change that will require constant repairs/maintenance. I don't have a shop with a lift, so for me it is tough to do suspension work. I was of the opinion that the polybushings were a great improvement and relatively maintenace free.
Other comments are welcomed as I am not into making a suspension change that will require constant repairs/maintenance. I don't have a shop with a lift, so for me it is tough to do suspension work. I was of the opinion that the polybushings were a great improvement and relatively maintenace free.