davidfarmer

no, the rear would require a longer adapter or rod end. They make a complete rear toe-rod kit with adjustable rod end....but I suspect the front kit could be modified with a longer rod end and work fine.

Again, I'm just looking for a tie-rod end replacement in this case, not really trying to improve geometry. That is a side benefit!

davidfarmer

actually it might be long enough to work on the rear........

OKsweetrides

Soooo Zip has rear tie rods eh?? Answered my own post. haha Yes they do.

Thanks for the info David, looking forward to your install notes if you post 'em.

davidfarmer

rear kit



however, the front kit should work rear with longer heim

davidfarmer

So I installed as shown, the SMALLEST shim was used to approximate the height of the OEM joint. Without extensive measurement (requiring removal of springs, dampers, bars) there is really no was to determine the ideal position. Having the rod slightly above parallel is needed to even attempt to deter toe-in, so it seemed best to go stock. I added the largest shim on the bottom half to take up space, and kept the remaining 2 shims for possible use at a later date.

Also, I installed the rod end into the adapter with just a few threads remaining, again to approximate stock and speed up the re-alignment process (using the lock-nuts as a starting point to get back where I was). Worked fine, lots of threads on both the tie rod side, and the rod-end side.

Anyway, installation is straight-forward, once you have them on and the outer jam-nut tight, you adjust TOE just like OEM. The reflective metal surface should reflect most of the radiant heat from the rotors, although I probably will wrap them in some way just to increase life.

travisnd

Awesome... I'll get some of those when mine eventually need replacement.

sperkins

I'd love to have a set, but can't spare the 2 points that NASA docks them.

travisnd

Ahhh.... didn't realize they were a points mod

Falcon

Seems like just changing the radio station in a TTA/PTA car is at least a 2 point mod.

varkwso

TTS baby

You can spend all you want to there

travisnd

You gotta read the rules better.... that's only 1 point.

Yep... then I have to compete head to head with Ryan and Wally

sperkins

Competition makes you faster.

Heck I spent all year chasing Mark last year and all I did was manage to spend a lot of money.

davidfarmer

That's the trouble with TTA for me.....you can only do certain mods, usually not the fun ones, and then their are still nearly-unobtainable freebies that 90% of people won't do (ie clutch).

This is not a mod anybody necessarily needs, BUT if you need to replace both front tie rod ends, it is an economic upgrade.

dbratten

The advantage to the rear kit (although much more money) is the replacement of the inner ball socket(?). On the right rear mine seized up and wouldn't turn anymore to allow toe adjustment. I was able to remove it and get it working again (night before an HPDE) but I noticed the other day that I have a little slop in that joint that allows some toe wobble. Gripping the RR wheel when jacked up it moves front to rear slightly -- but not top to bottom and it's not in the SKF bearing. LR side has no movement. The OEM part is not cheap so like the fronts this is a good deal.

davidfarmer

that's a good point dbratten, but in the dozen's of cars I've aligned, I've only seen that once. And it was on a car that had been through many Northern Winters.

I don't know if the ZIP kit does this, but 3R had a similar kit that moved the rear bar in such a way that it gave a bit more clearance for coil-overs in the rear.

mAydAy121

If the car is lowered from stock height, the instant centers have moved, therefore the instant center of your toe link/tie rod needs to be moved. Check your bump steer, I can guarantee you it is bumping. Depending upon the characteristics of your tire (tire data is most likely not available), it may not be a big problem, but its absolutely something you should be aware of and something that should ALWAYS be checked when setting up a car.

There's a damn good reason you get docked points for it, and its not because it looks cool or costs money.

You check your static toe, yet what your car does going down the straightaway doesn't mean a whole lot. Why don't you know your Ackermann and bump steer? Because, after all, what really matters is what the car does through the corner.

MSR

I have the Baer kit on the front of my C4. I was surprised to find I could get virtually zero bump steer if I ignored the final inch of bump travel, so pretty darn good.

I'm much less impressed with the Auroras included in the kit. Mine developed visible play inside of 3 track weekends and about 500 street miles. (All smooth roads.) Anyone have any recommendations for high-quality 3-piece rod ends? If they're good and they last, I'm not concerned with $12 vs $50 price differences.

Thanks.

-michael

C6RAPTOR

Just started install on Zip fronts and rear. The rears have a much stronger rod then OEM.

JETninja

For replacement Rod ends I would probably look at QA1, they make some of the best longest lasting ones out there. Used them for my lower inner CA bearing on the rear of my M3.

http://www.qa1.net/

froggy47

BTW since this thread came alive, the rod ends that come with the bump steer kit are not Aurora.

They are from a rod end company local to Baer whose name I forget.

I also had "bad luck" with the rod ends, they are low quality, the rest of the kit is very nice.

Next align I will be replacing them with QA1 or Aurora.

I have play on 3 corners.

The Baer people were very nice & sent me replacements, but they were no better than the first bunch that came with the kit.

One even had play that I could feel, brand new.

I think the 3 piece ends are better tolerances than 2 piece as I did some research on it in the Aurora catalog. Closer mfg tolerance.