DTC70: How thin is OK ??
04-04-2011, 11:53 PM
#1
Team Owner
Thread Starter
DTC70: How thin is OK ??
I got a track day coming up in a couple of weeks and only have one previous day on some used pads .... not very much experience on how they wear.
So, how thin of a pad can I run and not have to worry about throwing on pads at the track? 5mm, 4mm, less maybe??
C6Z06, with NT05 tires. Track is Buttonwillow CA #25CCW which I think will be a moderate braking configuration.
DH
So, how thin of a pad can I run and not have to worry about throwing on pads at the track? 5mm, 4mm, less maybe??
C6Z06, with NT05 tires. Track is Buttonwillow CA #25CCW which I think will be a moderate braking configuration.
DH
04-05-2011, 03:06 AM
#2
never really measured mine, but i would replace at about 2-3mm left. my outer ones tended to wear more than my inner ones. I use oem and dba 4000 rotors. if you have turned your rotors, you might want to leave a little more pad since turning cound potentially grind off a couple mm. your pads will fall out when they are thinner than the clearance between your pins and the rotor.
since my pads wear unevenly inside and out (and upper/lower) A trick i use to get an extra track day is to cross my pads. I do this when the pads have worn over 1/2 to 2/3 their original thickness:
inner upper <-> outer lower
inner center <-> outer center
inner lower <-> outer upper
i use michelin ps/2
-pp
since my pads wear unevenly inside and out (and upper/lower) A trick i use to get an extra track day is to cross my pads. I do this when the pads have worn over 1/2 to 2/3 their original thickness:
inner upper <-> outer lower
inner center <-> outer center
inner lower <-> outer upper
i use michelin ps/2
-pp
Last edited by peterpiper; 04-05-2011 at 03:07 AM. Reason: tires
04-05-2011, 10:06 AM
#4
Team Owner
Thread Starter
never really measured mine, but i would replace at about 2-3mm left. my outer ones tended to wear more than my inner ones. I use oem and dba 4000 rotors. if you have turned your rotors, you might want to leave a little more pad since turning cound potentially grind off a couple mm. your pads will fall out when they are thinner than the clearance between your pins and the rotor.
since my pads wear unevenly inside and out (and upper/lower) A trick i use to get an extra track day is to cross my pads. I do this when the pads have worn over 1/2 to 2/3 their original thickness:
inner upper <-> outer lower
inner center <-> outer center
inner lower <-> outer upper
i use michelin ps/2
-pp
since my pads wear unevenly inside and out (and upper/lower) A trick i use to get an extra track day is to cross my pads. I do this when the pads have worn over 1/2 to 2/3 their original thickness:
inner upper <-> outer lower
inner center <-> outer center
inner lower <-> outer upper
i use michelin ps/2
-pp
DH
04-05-2011, 10:11 AM
#5
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Take a look at post #10: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...post1574206931
He states they are only good to 1.5mm but says throw in trash at .125
I assume he is talking .125 INCHES ??? .... how many MM is that ??
There is a thermal isolator the last 1.5mm of any race worthy pad. Its not a pad compound, so it lacks the performance of the regular compound that you just got done using.
People often bring up heat as an issue as the pad wears- Yes, that is an issue, however, not for most on here. The issue is that the thermal barrier will not stop the car like the compound that was glued to it.
Throw them in the garbage with .125 left.
DH
04-05-2011, 11:39 AM
#6
Burning Brakes
Thanks....
He states they are only good to 1.5mm but says throw in trash at .125
I assume he is talking .125 INCHES ??? .... how many MM is that ??
There is a thermal isolator the last 1.5mm of any race worthy pad. Its not a pad compound, so it lacks the performance of the regular compound that you just got done using.
People often bring up heat as an issue as the pad wears- Yes, that is an issue, however, not for most on here. The issue is that the thermal barrier will not stop the car like the compound that was glued to it.
Throw them in the garbage with .125 left.
DH
He states they are only good to 1.5mm but says throw in trash at .125
I assume he is talking .125 INCHES ??? .... how many MM is that ??
There is a thermal isolator the last 1.5mm of any race worthy pad. Its not a pad compound, so it lacks the performance of the regular compound that you just got done using.
People often bring up heat as an issue as the pad wears- Yes, that is an issue, however, not for most on here. The issue is that the thermal barrier will not stop the car like the compound that was glued to it.
Throw them in the garbage with .125 left.
DH
04-05-2011, 12:40 PM
#8
Team Owner
Thread Starter
04-06-2011, 01:02 PM
#10
Melting Slicks
DTC70s will out brake the NT05s by far. So watch out. You'll be in ABS like crazy if you stand on the brakes. I run NT05s to warm up then throw Hoosiers on after. Like night and day. The Hoosiers are a good match for the DTC70. Oh and DTC70s have a very healthy appetite for rotors. I like them but think they are a bit brutal.
04-06-2011, 01:13 PM
#11
Le Mans Master
DTC70s will out brake the NT05s by far. So watch out. You'll be in ABS like crazy if you stand on the brakes. I run NT05s to warm up then throw Hoosiers on after. Like night and day. The Hoosiers are a good match for the DTC70. Oh and DTC70s have a very healthy appetite for rotors. I like them but think they are a bit brutal.
04-06-2011, 03:28 PM
#12
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Member Since: Mar 2005
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I'm going to try out Carbotech XP10/8 this year with the NT05s. And I usually replace the pads once they're down to 4 mm. Don't want to replace at the track (HPDE) if I can avoid it....
04-06-2011, 04:04 PM
#13
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Could easily overpower the PS2's, but it worked well to learn how to modulate the brakes.
I heard guys running A6's that liked the 10/8 combo, too.
Edited: NM, answered my question in the link at the top of the page...
Last edited by VTME13; 04-06-2011 at 04:07 PM.
04-06-2011, 04:18 PM
#14
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St. Jude Donor '11,'13
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Adam Adelstein
Amp’D Autosport.com
Internet's largest retailer of Carbotech Performance Brake Pads.
PH:216-780-8825.
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All major CC and Pay Pal accepted.
Check out Promo code:z28
Adam Adelstein
Amp’D Autosport.com
Internet's largest retailer of Carbotech Performance Brake Pads.
PH:216-780-8825.
Email: sales@ampdautosport.com
Web Site & Direct ordering http://ampdautosport.com/
All major CC and Pay Pal accepted.
Check out Promo code:z28
04-06-2011, 04:33 PM
#15
Team Owner
Thread Starter
DTC70s will out brake the NT05s by far. So watch out. You'll be in ABS like crazy if you stand on the brakes. I run NT05s to warm up then throw Hoosiers on after. Like night and day. The Hoosiers are a good match for the DTC70. Oh and DTC70s have a very healthy appetite for rotors. I like them but think they are a bit brutal.
I used the DTC70 for the first time last outing at AutoClub Speedway and got a PB, beating my previous time by more than a second. I didn't have any ABS problems. I'd rather have ABS than brake fade
DH
04-06-2011, 04:37 PM
#17
Team Owner
Thread Starter
04-06-2011, 10:31 PM
#19
Melting Slicks
Ok but you went from HP+ to DTC70? That isn't a jump up. That's a leap to the top. You went from an over aggressive street pad good for AX and very light track duty. To their top of the line race pad. If you look in the middle there are more pads. They make Blues and Blacks which used to be popular. Then the HT family. Like HT14/HT10 combo. Those will easily outrun any street tire.
With street tires like Jeff mentions Carbo XP10/XP8 works really well and shouldn't chew up your rotor as quick. But you will burn through pads quicker. It's either or, pads or rotors, or both.
I went from the stock C5 front caliper to Wilwood SL6R and their 2 piece rotors. Now the cost of pads is cheaper than rotors. So burning up pads quicker I don't mind. Since the Carbotechs are softer I'm ok with them. Now on the stock setup. Nope. Pads cost me $200+/set and rotors were $100/pair at most. It was more cost effective to burn up rotors. So I went to the Hawk DTC70/60 setup. Much more aggressive. Pads last longer. I don't mind changing rotors at the track. It goes with the turf. I always carry spare rotors and pads.
It's all a trade off. I like Hawks and Carbotechs and have no loyalty to either. I even like the Wilwood H pads that came with the calipers.
Graham
With street tires like Jeff mentions Carbo XP10/XP8 works really well and shouldn't chew up your rotor as quick. But you will burn through pads quicker. It's either or, pads or rotors, or both.
I went from the stock C5 front caliper to Wilwood SL6R and their 2 piece rotors. Now the cost of pads is cheaper than rotors. So burning up pads quicker I don't mind. Since the Carbotechs are softer I'm ok with them. Now on the stock setup. Nope. Pads cost me $200+/set and rotors were $100/pair at most. It was more cost effective to burn up rotors. So I went to the Hawk DTC70/60 setup. Much more aggressive. Pads last longer. I don't mind changing rotors at the track. It goes with the turf. I always carry spare rotors and pads.
It's all a trade off. I like Hawks and Carbotechs and have no loyalty to either. I even like the Wilwood H pads that came with the calipers.
Graham
Well I was getting pad smear using the Hawk HP+ so I needed to try something better.
I used the DTC70 for the first time last outing at AutoClub Speedway and got a PB, beating my previous time by more than a second. I didn't have any ABS problems. I'd rather have ABS than brake fade
DH
I used the DTC70 for the first time last outing at AutoClub Speedway and got a PB, beating my previous time by more than a second. I didn't have any ABS problems. I'd rather have ABS than brake fade
DH
04-06-2011, 11:19 PM
#20
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Ok but you went from HP+ to DTC70? That isn't a jump up. That's a leap to the top. You went from an over aggressive street pad good for AX and very light track duty. To their top of the line race pad. If you look in the middle there are more pads. They make Blues and Blacks which used to be popular. Then the HT family. Like HT14/HT10 combo. Those will easily outrun any street tire.
With street tires like Jeff mentions Carbo XP10/XP8 works really well and shouldn't chew up your rotor as quick. But you will burn through pads quicker. It's either or, pads or rotors, or both.
I went from the stock C5 front caliper to Wilwood SL6R and their 2 piece rotors. Now the cost of pads is cheaper than rotors. So burning up pads quicker I don't mind. Since the Carbotechs are softer I'm ok with them. Now on the stock setup. Nope. Pads cost me $200+/set and rotors were $100/pair at most. It was more cost effective to burn up rotors. So I went to the Hawk DTC70/60 setup. Much more aggressive. Pads last longer. I don't mind changing rotors at the track. It goes with the turf. I always carry spare rotors and pads.
It's all a trade off. I like Hawks and Carbotechs and have no loyalty to either. I even like the Wilwood H pads that came with the calipers.
Graham
With street tires like Jeff mentions Carbo XP10/XP8 works really well and shouldn't chew up your rotor as quick. But you will burn through pads quicker. It's either or, pads or rotors, or both.
I went from the stock C5 front caliper to Wilwood SL6R and their 2 piece rotors. Now the cost of pads is cheaper than rotors. So burning up pads quicker I don't mind. Since the Carbotechs are softer I'm ok with them. Now on the stock setup. Nope. Pads cost me $200+/set and rotors were $100/pair at most. It was more cost effective to burn up rotors. So I went to the Hawk DTC70/60 setup. Much more aggressive. Pads last longer. I don't mind changing rotors at the track. It goes with the turf. I always carry spare rotors and pads.
It's all a trade off. I like Hawks and Carbotechs and have no loyalty to either. I even like the Wilwood H pads that came with the calipers.
Graham
DH