strapping down the ZR1
04-08-2011, 02:49 PM
#2
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Using "T" hooks in the front and rear anchor points on the frame is probably the best/safest way to go. The anchor points are easy to find on the frame rails under the rocker panels. Allows you to really crank down on the straps and locks the car in place on the trailer.
I used to run straps over the lower A arms in the rear and over the crash bars in the front but then heard about someone dodging a wreck while going to the track (several hundred miles from home) only to find out the strap had damaged the rear suspension on one side. So beware. M&R Products has really nice tie downs and T hooks. Good luck.
I used to run straps over the lower A arms in the rear and over the crash bars in the front but then heard about someone dodging a wreck while going to the track (several hundred miles from home) only to find out the strap had damaged the rear suspension on one side. So beware. M&R Products has really nice tie downs and T hooks. Good luck.
04-08-2011, 03:10 PM
#5
Drifting
"Allows you to really crank down on the straps and locks the car in place on the trailer."
Careful with that! I over did it and damaged one of the riveted inserts.
I got my straps on Ebay and my T-hooks from TruckNtow.
BTW, Leave the car in neutral to avoid any possibility of drive train damage; just set the emergency brake.
Jim
Careful with that! I over did it and damaged one of the riveted inserts.
I got my straps on Ebay and my T-hooks from TruckNtow.
BTW, Leave the car in neutral to avoid any possibility of drive train damage; just set the emergency brake.
Jim
04-08-2011, 03:20 PM
#6
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I have been using the T hooks since 97. On an aluminum frame car like the C6Z you should probably not crank down on them too tight but on a steel frame car you really can crank them down. I set the parking brake and also put the transmission in reverse. Have towed a lot of miles in the last 14 years and have never had any transmission issues. The straps also restrain its bouncing to some degree so you don't get as much interaction between the trailer suspension system and the car's suspension system.
Bill
Bill
04-08-2011, 03:24 PM
#7
Safety Car
I have been using the T hooks since 97. On an aluminum frame car like the C6Z you should probably not crank down on them too tight but on a steel frame car you really can crank them down. I set the parking brake and also put the transmission in reverse. Have towed a lot of miles in the last 14 years and have never had any transmission issues. The straps also restrain its bouncing to some degree so you don't get as much interaction between the trailer suspension system and the car's suspension system.
Bill
Bill
I've had to do a full panic stop from 70+ when a van flipped in front of me and I had no where to go. It was nice to see that the car didn't move at all
04-08-2011, 03:26 PM
#8
Le Mans Master
Maybe it is just ignorance, but I crank the heck out of my C6Z with the T hooks. Never had a problem in 4 years and thousands of miles in all kinds of conditions.
04-08-2011, 05:28 PM
#10
Team Owner
04-08-2011, 05:32 PM
#11
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St. Jude Donor '08
I use these 2" straps w/ T-hooks from Pierce Sales:
http://www.piercesales.com/ProductDe...lusters&key=it
They work with standard 2" Ratchets. They also sell just the hooks.
I pull the car (C5) up on the trailer with a winch, use T-hooks attached to HD chains in the front frame slots, roll the car back till the chains are tight, then use the T-hooks with ratchets on the rear. Very quick and easy. I leave the trans in neutral and have never had any issues. I leave the winch cable hooked to my front tow hook with the winch brake on as a safety.
Because the frame slots are between the wheels, you have to cross the chains and straps to the D-rings on the trailer, but most folks do that regardless of car mounting points to minimize possibility of the car shifting side-to-side on the trailer.
http://www.piercesales.com/ProductDe...lusters&key=it
They work with standard 2" Ratchets. They also sell just the hooks.
I pull the car (C5) up on the trailer with a winch, use T-hooks attached to HD chains in the front frame slots, roll the car back till the chains are tight, then use the T-hooks with ratchets on the rear. Very quick and easy. I leave the trans in neutral and have never had any issues. I leave the winch cable hooked to my front tow hook with the winch brake on as a safety.
Because the frame slots are between the wheels, you have to cross the chains and straps to the D-rings on the trailer, but most folks do that regardless of car mounting points to minimize possibility of the car shifting side-to-side on the trailer.
04-09-2011, 08:16 AM
#15
Team Owner
04-09-2011, 11:41 AM
#17
I have been using the T hooks since 97. On an aluminum frame car like the C6Z you should probably not crank down on them too tight but on a steel frame car you really can crank them down. I set the parking brake and also put the transmission in reverse. Have towed a lot of miles in the last 14 years and have never had any transmission issues. The straps also restrain its bouncing to some degree so you don't get as much interaction between the trailer suspension system and the car's suspension system.
Bill
Bill
Dave G.
04-09-2011, 07:17 PM
#18
The car hauler, who has GM's contract to deliver vehicles from the railhead to the dealers in our city, told me that their contract with GM provides that any GM vehicle that they deliver be secured by nets (spec'd by GM) (made of straps not rope) over and around each of the tires and tied down that way on the car hauler. This is from the railhead to the dealer. Don't know what they do on the railcar.
04-10-2011, 09:36 AM
#20
Drifting
Jim