travisnd

For taller folks in need of more head room this will get you 5/8" more. I used a dremel with a reinforced cutoff wheel to make the initial cuts being very careful not to cut too deep and go through the floor. You really only need to cut 1/2 way into the balsa wood core. Then I took my catspaw mini-prybar that I had used for lots of home remodeling stuff (prying up shoe molding and trim etc.) and used it as a wood chisel to get the top layer and balsa wood core out. I used a 2x10 on my my floor jack to support the bottom floor layer while prying and chiseling. This prevented the remaining floor from bending or cracking. The first pry I did unsupported put a dent in the floor.... I fixed it and made sure to support the floor from there on out. Compared the the standard Hardbar hardware I gained 5/8" of headroom. I felt good in the car before with the seat nearly on the floor... now it feels even better

davidfarmer

thanks for the photos, I've been telling people this for years but few really want to cut the floor.

I personally (on a race car) cut all the way through, as the aluminum becomes the new floor in those spots.

travisnd

It's illegal to modify the floor for TTA/PTA and I believe so for TTS/ST1 and TTU/STU so I had to get a waiver from Greg G so I didn't get kicked to TTR/STR. One of the rules of the waiver I got was that the bottom of the floor had to remain unmodified so the car looked the same when viewing from underneath.

The floor is still very solid.... even in the cut-out areas and the seat really rests on the metal rails that hold the seat studs anyway.