travisnd

I didn't get any instructions so at first I tried to install it using 2 of the metal "washers", but doing that there's no thread left on the shock shaft to get the upper nut started.

The only way I could get it together was to not use a lower "washer" and let the bottom 1/2 of the mount ride on the dust boot in the same manner as the OEM rubber.



Does this look correct? The kit comes with 8 of the washers so I assumed one was used top and bottom like the picture on Gary's website showing the assembly uninstalled.

Oh... does the rubber bushing go where I have it or on the top side?

RX-Ben

I don't recall much from my install, other than there were no instructions and it is trickier than it should be not to include instructions.

There should be no rubber involved. Only delrin and metal.
I don't think you can use the shock covers. I used some universal boots for a steering rack. These are cheap and readily available (and are cracking after <9 months).

travisnd

There's definitely a rubber washer that goes in there... Anyone know how tight I'm supposed to make this? I usually go good n' tight, but is this thing supposed to be able to rotate as the shock moves?

Should the delrin be lubed at all? I have left over grease from my Pfadt poly bushing install.

travisnd

Ok... I just went back out in the garage and messed with it again. I think I'm good to go. The top of the OEM dust boot is metal and appears to be the same shape/dimension as the "washers" that come with the Hardbar stuff. I cleaned off the rubber residue on the top of the dust boot with a Scotch-Brite pad and the shock moves around fine. I did find that "contact + 1/2 turn" seems way too loose. Good n' tight feels better and the shock still moved around fine.

Gary if you find this thread please chime in

John Shiels

I would call Gary.

dvandentop

on the bottom the metal washer goes closest to bottom then the delrin then the small rubber washer then on top goes the delrin and then the metal cup

that is how i installled mine and worked great

MYRX

Read this thread with interest. Having poly-bushing installed now. What exactly will installing the delrin upper shock mount do? It seems to a popular choice with the TTA Group of which I have recently joined.

travisnd

It allows the shock to work as designed. Whith the rubber upper mounts the shock will have some lateral deflection when the suspension moves.

travisnd

After bugging Gary on FaceBook a bit he says the top of the OEM dust boot is not the same radius/shape as steel "cup washer end cap things" that come with these mounts. Thus I'm going to ditch the dust boot and try and re-install with the bottom "washer".

froggy47

I probably should not post until I pull a wheel & look, but anyway, when I put the Pfadt kit on IIRC it was like a delrin sandwich with the metal "washers" being the bread and the delrin in the middle.

I think your dust cover is taking up too much space. Do you really need it?

I don't think many "race" shocks (except for baja trucks) use the covers but I could be wrong.

travisnd

I guess not.... I only worked on the LF last night and it's not buttoned up so it wont be hard to change.

froggy47

Here are some pics of the rear kit.








The metal "cups" are the "bread" of the sandwich. They are the bigger parts. They are anodized black so it's a bit hard to tell the diff from delrin. Parts are laid out as they install.

Bottom bits are the old mount parts. Top is the new. I laid then out to make sure I had it right.

rgg16g

Are you sure you have the sandwich of delrin pushed tightly together? The delrin bushings fit very tight, maybe they are not pressed together all the way? I had no problems with mine (now yours) installed on Bilsteins, maybe the OEM shaft does not stick out as far, I used the dust boots too.

I had all the parts assembled as follows: from bottom, Metal cupped washer / delrin / rubber washer / chassis / delrin / metal cupped washer / nut / (though I think the rubber washer could go on top, would take up the same space)

travisnd

Yeah rubber top or bottom won't make a difference. It's definatley compressed all the way... The Bilstein dust boot and bumpstop arrangement is different than OEM. I haven't had a set of Bilsteins in awhile so I can't remember exactly how they're different.

It's not a big deal... I actually think they'd work fine as installed w/o the lower cupped washer. I tested the range of motion with the lower end of the shock unbolted and it moves around just fine. I know Gary says the top of the facotry dust boot (the metal part) is different than his cupped washer things, but it must be quite close.

sperkins

Toss the dust boots.

travisnd

Got the left side front and rear done... per a forum member's suggestion I simply removed the rubber washer since NVH isn't a concern at all (dedicated track car). On the front the shaft diameter gets bigger just before the stock boot so removing the boot won't do anything unless you drill out the hole to 7/16ths. I didn't have to as it all went together fine. I did use some blue loc-tite on the nut since it only goes on a few turns, but plenty to stay tight.

In the rear the shock shaft gets thicker just past the threads so you have to drill the bottom metal cupped washer out to 7/16ths. Then put it all together.

froggy47

IIRC there was an issue with two different "thickness" of the upper front shock "housing" or whatever it is correctly called.

Pfadt kit included different dimension delrin bits to accomodate the thickness differences.

Maybe yours is the thick one.