LeMans05C6

Car specs: 2005 LS2 Z51 403ci 505rwhp ported stock heads & cam.

Hey guys. Only doing HPDE for now but in the 3rd of 4 groups and eventually working towards the top group so running pretty hard.

For now I am running ToyoR888s as a balance of traction but not slicks to try and avoid oil starvation in the turns.

Anyway, here is my question. I ran at the track in March and February and hit about 270* for oil temps, but coolant was only around 205. Seemed like a large disparity and as its down here in Texas, the summer months only get hotter.

I am avoiding the HPDEs until i get this figured out, i wanted to ask for some opinion from the fellow racers.

Since mine is an 05' i don't have an external cooler like the newer Z51s. I was looking at the Setrab external coolers. There are different sizes but there were a few I had in mind. I also have been looking at DeWitts and Ron Davis Radiators. I hear good things about both.

Would the radiator with both oil & trans coolers be sufficient for me, or do i need to get a radiator with just the Trans-cooler side and run the oil directly to a larger external air-cooled one.

Any thoughts?

froggy47

You will probably gather more info on this by searching the existing threads, rather than wait (hope) that everyone posts on your "new" thread.

It's been covered multiple times.

DRUGschnorr

Visit the kids at LG they are not far from u ... i have used both radiator folks and they are both great...and they can help w/ the oil cooler.
I too have heat problems and resolved w/ higher octane fuel, big radiator, bigger oil cooler.

RDnomorecobra

I've hit 300 in my c5z and will again this season because I didnt get off my a.. to install an external oil cooler over the winter. That's probably what I'm going to do vs. the integrated radiator type. However as stated above, lots of opinions both ways on here ...

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...l-coolers.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-thoughts.html

LeMans05C6

Well i talked to DRM on the phone. I think the best way to do it would be to start with the Combo Radiator, and then if it isn't cutting it then i can plumb in the external cooler and run both. He advised me that way since it is a daily driver as well and not just a race car, the oil would get up to running temp quicker that way as well.

Also its a cheaper start than both right now if i don't need them. I just want to drop my temps now that I am starting to run harder.

LeMans05C6

Ron Davis is a bit pricier vs the DeWitts but I really heard good things on both, just depends on who you talk to. Both look like full aluminum as opposed to the stock LS2 plastic stuff on either side.

Any extremely good experiences with either. Everyone has bad stories, but how about the good ones that make you a long term customer?

drivinhard

625 Setrab - Air

PeOR

I have hit 313 degrees with my stock LS2 Z51 which has the standard oil cooler. 95 degrees and 30 minutes on Palm Beach International Raceway. Normally the temperature is between 275 and 290 degrees during the end of a session. I am not planning to upgrade my cooling at this point, but I do change oil every 3-4th track day.

PeO.

Jason

It's pretty quick and easy to install (unless you have headers), no reason to go another season without it.

kentz06

A vented hood also helps...

mfquinn

I went with a Z06 oil cooler. It works well at keeping the oil temps down

gkmccready

I went the DRM/Ron Davis combo radiator route because I couldn't get more than halfway through a 20 minute session at Thunderhill with my C6 Z51 without hitting 300F on oil... temps have stayed reasonable since that change, although I would like oil a little lower I'm happy enough.

Pumba

I have been down this road, so my advice can save you doing it the wrong way, as I did when I first started.

1) DO NOT buy a DeWitts or Ron Davis Racing radiator with the built-in engine oil cooler! The built-in coolers are a severe restriction to engine oil flow.

2) Buy a DeWitts or Ron Davis Racing radiator without the coolers.

3) Buy a Vinci Hi-Performance 172 degree thermostat and has your fans reprogrammed to come on at 196 degrees and shut off and 189 degrees.

4) Buy a SETRAB #172 engine oil cooler




The #172 SETRAB cooler is a perfect width for our radiator. Plumb the oil cooler with #12 AN lines and fittings.


With these changes, your track water temperature will stay about the same or drop slightly, and your engine oil temperature will run below 220 degrees.

.

RDnomorecobra

I know, I know. But w/3 kids I can't spend more than 12 consecutive minutes in my garage. I'll get er done soon.

LeMans05C6

Interesting Setrab choice there. That one has the plumbing coming in the sides and not the top. Makes sense to keep less out of the front of the radiator. I did hear having the fittings on the top keeps as much possible getting cooled before it runs back out though. Definietly will take this into consideration.

I just wonder how it works if the external cooler keeps the oil TOO cool? Does it never get up to temp on the street or is there an oil thermostat/bypass that you can use that wouldn't cause too many issues or leaks.

Once again my research begins.

VetteDrmr

My first install had a 180 t'stat plumbed into my EOC loop, and it was nice and convenient for a DD/autox/DE car. Temps still stayed down on the set point, so I then fabbed a cover for the cooler that I used when not at the track. Oil temps then went up into the 190-210 range, which means the t'stat was fully open.

On my new playtoy ('99 Miata with LS1/T56) I plumbed in the same oil cooler without the t'stat and so far no problems with the oil being too cool. Frankly don't have the EOC cover installed yet, but I think it'll work fine without the t'stat.

BTW, I don't see the need to run the fans at lower temps. When you want the fans to turn on just run the AC.

HTH, and have a good one,
Mike

doveboat

Same here, added the C6 Z06 Oil Cooler kit to my F55 08 (no factory oil cooler) and dropped temps 20 degree's on average.

In addition to lower max temps, the temp drop rate after a cool down lap is much faster. I now max @ 280, but enter the pits at 260 or so.

I also added a PS Cooler as well after issues with overheating fluids / leaks.

Ed

LeMans05C6

Well it may take the better part of summer and towards the full, but if i can save up some money ill do the new radiator and external cooler as well. Seems like for the track ill need the cooling help only the external can provide.

Rob Willis

Pulling the plastic valve covers (beauty covers) and the hood insulation helps a little bit too IMHO. Both hold the heat IN.

ptindall

Your current temps are just fine, much lower than mine were running before I installed the DRM w/integrated oil cooler. I was at 300 oil and 260 coolant, requiring me to take cool down laps. After the rad w/oil cooler, temps are so much lower I don't have to worry about them ever and it gets pretty hot here. I'm sure it would do the same for you unless you start driving much, much harder than you are now.