Oil Cooler Adapter Block Rant
#1
Racer
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Member Since: Sep 2008
Location: Houston Texas
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Oil Cooler Adapter Block Rant
AAAAAAHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!
PITA
I am having so so much fun trying to get the oil adapter on to the block above the filter on my C5. I've got the lines run but can't get the thing flush to get the bolts started. And I don't even have headers just big hands I guess. I doing this in my driveway on jack stands which makes it even more fun!
Anyway I'm calling it quits for today.
Time for beer.
Thanks for listening, lol.
PITA
I am having so so much fun trying to get the oil adapter on to the block above the filter on my C5. I've got the lines run but can't get the thing flush to get the bolts started. And I don't even have headers just big hands I guess. I doing this in my driveway on jack stands which makes it even more fun!
Anyway I'm calling it quits for today.
Time for beer.
Thanks for listening, lol.
#2
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Oct 2007
Location: Akron Ohio
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2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2022 C5 of the Year Finalist - Modified
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
I've been in those projects before. Always best to walk away and try again when you don't want to burn the thing. Hope you get it on soon!
#7
DRM makes the best oil block. He actually thought this out and all the fittings and sender holes are in the right place for our cars. Others will work but some are just a PITA!
#12
Team Owner
#13
Racer
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It must be just me then because I have the DRM block. I think I have to much angle on the 90 degree elbow fittings. Gonna try and straighten them up.
The problem I am is having is not getting the block parallel to the mating surface on the engine block to get the bolts started.
I'll keep trying but man I wish I had a lift. Doing this off my back in the driveway is not making it easier.
The problem I am is having is not getting the block parallel to the mating surface on the engine block to get the bolts started.
I'll keep trying but man I wish I had a lift. Doing this off my back in the driveway is not making it easier.
#14
Safety Car
Hardest project I ever did. I had the LPE adapter - I didn't understand the difference between them all. Not familiar with DRMs, but ECS has all the fittings in the right place for sensor, plus it uses regular bolts. The LPE used allen wrench bolts and that was a huge bitch to get started. Stay at it as it will come to you. Good luck!
#15
Racer
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Ok got the oil block right after my previous post. I had to much angle on the AN filtting so I striaghtend them out and also move a wire harness that was in the way.
Then it went on easy.
I then installed the radiator with EOC ran the lines etc.
Got it all buttoned up, added water and coolent, fired it up , oil pressure in 5 seconds check, no oil leaks, check, wait whats this the radiator is leaking from the drivers side tank. GRRRRRRRRR!
Its a Ron Davis I bought from DRM. Guess I'll be calling Randy tomorrow.
Then it went on easy.
I then installed the radiator with EOC ran the lines etc.
Got it all buttoned up, added water and coolent, fired it up , oil pressure in 5 seconds check, no oil leaks, check, wait whats this the radiator is leaking from the drivers side tank. GRRRRRRRRR!
Its a Ron Davis I bought from DRM. Guess I'll be calling Randy tomorrow.
#16
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Sep 2003
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Even though Greywolfe may beyond the point of no return, I took a different approach to plumbing my oil cooler.
1) I purchased an oil filter adapter from Canton Racing:
I used #12 AN fittings and lines to plumb the oil into the left front wheel well housing where I positioned a Fram dual oil filter mount:
From there I used #12 AN fittings and lines to my SETRAB #172 oil cooler:
Out of the SETRAB cooler with #12 AN fittings and lines back to the Canton Racing filter adapter.
#12 AN fittings and lines greatly reduce system pressure and flow loss compared to #8 or #10 lines. Dual oil filters more than double the amount of oil you can flow without having the bypass valve in your engine or filters open and allow unfiltered oil to circulate in your engine.
The SETRAB #172 oil cooler has less than 1 psi pressure drop and rejects 62,000 BTUs of heat.
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1) I purchased an oil filter adapter from Canton Racing:
I used #12 AN fittings and lines to plumb the oil into the left front wheel well housing where I positioned a Fram dual oil filter mount:
From there I used #12 AN fittings and lines to my SETRAB #172 oil cooler:
Out of the SETRAB cooler with #12 AN fittings and lines back to the Canton Racing filter adapter.
#12 AN fittings and lines greatly reduce system pressure and flow loss compared to #8 or #10 lines. Dual oil filters more than double the amount of oil you can flow without having the bypass valve in your engine or filters open and allow unfiltered oil to circulate in your engine.
The SETRAB #172 oil cooler has less than 1 psi pressure drop and rejects 62,000 BTUs of heat.
-
#17
Race Director
I just finished installing a DRM block myself, and it indeed is a pain. I inititially routed the lines too high, which made the angle completely wrong. Once I realized the problem, I re-routed them lower, which made the bolts pretty easy to start. Ideally, this would be done with the engine out of the car, as it is very hard to route AN lines with 90deg elbows already attached, but it eventually comes together.
#19
Safety Car
I didn't have too much trouble with mine, but I had the driver's side manifold out of the car and I had installed Pfadt motor mounts which frees up lots of room between the block and the mount.
#20
Drifting
I also used the oil filter adapter instead of the block adapter, then used a canton-mecca billet canister filter and fabbed a mount to put it on the pax-side head. I had thought about putting it in the left fender, but thats where the accusump was. Also, I _HATE_ pulling that close out panel there. Where I've got it now is quite easy to get at. And a lack of spin on filters is awesome.