Alignment ques. rear camber vs rear toe?
05-31-2011, 01:41 PM
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
Alignment ques. rear camber vs rear toe?
Putting a different alignment on c5z using the Pfadt camber kit.
Before was -2.2 driver and -1.9 pass
Before was 6 notch plate driver and 5 notch plate pass
After was -1.6 driver and -1.8 pass
All I did was replace the 6 notch plate (driver) with 5 notch plate (driver)
A change of .6 where I "should have" seen about a .2 change.
Did not touch pass side
AND
I also changed the toe a little. I haven't set up the toe yet.
Does changing the rear toe change the rear camber at all? A lot? A little?
I should have got about .2 degree less negative by switching the plate to 1 notch less.
I was on a leveled surface, settled the suspension, calibrated the digital camber gauge, etc etc.
Mainly the question is about toe vs camber & why I got such a big change for one notch. I eyeballed the plates to see if one was "mis labeled" but they look ok.
Stock rear bushings & 40k miles.
Before was -2.2 driver and -1.9 pass
Before was 6 notch plate driver and 5 notch plate pass
After was -1.6 driver and -1.8 pass
All I did was replace the 6 notch plate (driver) with 5 notch plate (driver)
A change of .6 where I "should have" seen about a .2 change.
Did not touch pass side
AND
I also changed the toe a little. I haven't set up the toe yet.
Does changing the rear toe change the rear camber at all? A lot? A little?
I should have got about .2 degree less negative by switching the plate to 1 notch less.
I was on a leveled surface, settled the suspension, calibrated the digital camber gauge, etc etc.
Mainly the question is about toe vs camber & why I got such a big change for one notch. I eyeballed the plates to see if one was "mis labeled" but they look ok.
Stock rear bushings & 40k miles.
Last edited by froggy47; 05-31-2011 at 01:43 PM.
05-31-2011, 04:04 PM
#3
I'd say without monoballs everywhere it will be impossible to fine tune as much as you are trying. Keep in mind, the corvette has a lot of droop and the track width widens a whole lot as the suspension settles after the car has been up on jackstands. You need slip plates that will allow the wheels to move outward a several inches when the car is put back on the ground to do things properly. Many assume the settling issue has to do with the leaf springs, but it is more so with the track width change.
05-31-2011, 07:43 PM
#7
Race Director
Thread Starter
I'd say without monoballs everywhere it will be impossible to fine tune as much as you are trying. Keep in mind, the corvette has a lot of droop and the track width widens a whole lot as the suspension settles after the car has been up on jackstands. You need slip plates that will allow the wheels to move outward a several inches when the car is put back on the ground to do things properly. Many assume the settling issue has to do with the leaf springs, but it is more so with the track width change.
I left my spacers in, should they be off? Keep in mind front is dead nuts on. But the front adjusting is shimming the upper.
05-31-2011, 08:00 PM
#8
Race Director
let it settle more.......
Also, sometimes you have to just "let things go". If it has consistenly measured 1.6, and you made a finite adjustment, then it is correct. It will settle out in time, although the rear in a non c6-z06 settles quicker than the front since it "hangs" instead of "sliding" on the control arms.
What washers are you talkiing about....no washers in the rear uppers????
Also, sometimes you have to just "let things go". If it has consistenly measured 1.6, and you made a finite adjustment, then it is correct. It will settle out in time, although the rear in a non c6-z06 settles quicker than the front since it "hangs" instead of "sliding" on the control arms.
What washers are you talkiing about....no washers in the rear uppers????
05-31-2011, 08:10 PM
#9
Race Director
Thread Starter
let it settle more.......
Also, sometimes you have to just "let things go". If it has consistenly measured 1.6, and you made a finite adjustment, then it is correct. It will settle out in time, although the rear in a non c6-z06 settles quicker than the front since it "hangs" instead of "sliding" on the control arms.
What washers are you talkiing about....no washers in the rear uppers????
Also, sometimes you have to just "let things go". If it has consistenly measured 1.6, and you made a finite adjustment, then it is correct. It will settle out in time, although the rear in a non c6-z06 settles quicker than the front since it "hangs" instead of "sliding" on the control arms.
What washers are you talkiing about....no washers in the rear uppers????
Hi David,
I don't see where I mentioned washers?
I think I have a clue, now, reading the posts & thinking.
I thought slip plates were for toe mostly. I had not thought about camber.
When I level my setup area I have to put one alum plate (an old stop sign) under the RR to get floor level.
This plate is probably acting as a slip plate on the rr while the lr just has a fat old 315 slick hitting the ground when I lower the car after adjustment.
What do you guys think? Would that make the lr show less neg due to tire dragging on the floor? Of course I'll recheck a couple of times.
Also I did drive the car after the adjustment to settle it.
Last edited by froggy47; 05-31-2011 at 08:49 PM.
05-31-2011, 08:29 PM
#11
If you are talking wheel spacers leave them on.
For slip plates stack a pair of steel sheets, or something comparable, with grease between them. You will see how much the track changes the first time you lower the car on them. Every time you lift the car up you need to re-set the plates.
Aside from the track width change, your rubber bushings are probably contributing most to the alignment not being consistant.
For slip plates stack a pair of steel sheets, or something comparable, with grease between them. You will see how much the track changes the first time you lower the car on them. Every time you lift the car up you need to re-set the plates.
Aside from the track width change, your rubber bushings are probably contributing most to the alignment not being consistant.
05-31-2011, 08:44 PM
#12
Race Director
Thread Starter
If you are talking wheel spacers leave them on.
For slip plates stack a pair of steel sheets, or something comparable, with grease between them. You will see how much the track changes the first time you lower the car on them. Every time you lift the car up you need to re-set the plates.
Aside from the track width change, your rubber bushings are probably contributing most to the alignment not being consistant.
For slip plates stack a pair of steel sheets, or something comparable, with grease between them. You will see how much the track changes the first time you lower the car on them. Every time you lift the car up you need to re-set the plates.
Aside from the track width change, your rubber bushings are probably contributing most to the alignment not being consistant.
Thanks, that is what I am thinking. I will recheck after a drive or two. The front is all poly & I was very impressed how accurate I could get it.
05-31-2011, 09:28 PM
#14
Race Director
sorry I read spacers as washers....won't make a difference in toe or camber.....
I'd let it go. Check it after another event, and put the 6 back in if you need more.
I'd let it go. Check it after another event, and put the 6 back in if you need more.
06-03-2011, 06:20 PM
#15
Race Director
Thread Starter
Drove it a bit & now it's dead on 1.9 both sides, yay!
Sure does take a bunch to settle the stick out on stock suspension.
Do other cars (Porsche, Viper, BMW) have similar problems with balky bushings?
Sure does take a bunch to settle the stick out on stock suspension.
Do other cars (Porsche, Viper, BMW) have similar problems with balky bushings?
