ACPT Carbon Fiber Driveshaft Failure
#1
ACPT Carbon Fiber Driveshaft Failure
About 18 months ago I decided to put in an ACPT carbon fiber driveshaft at the same time I put in a new clutch. I used a high grade aluminum connector to replace the rear guibo and a new high quality rubber guibo for the front.
Last month while I was at Laguna Seca it failed. The break occurred at the front just at the end of the aluminum to carbon fiber coupler.
http://gallery.me.com/hapnermw#10000...&bgcolor=black
Prior to failure, downshifts entering turns became difficult. It was clear something was keeping the clutch from fully disengaging.
When it broke, the out of control end took out the weld connecting the front housing to the torq tube.
There was nothing in the HPDE use of the car that would account for this failure. Either this driveshaft was defective or its design is poor.
I gave ACPT a call to see what they would have to say about the failure. They took a message and never called me back.
If you are thinking about using an ACPT driveshaft, you might want to think twice
http://www.acpt.com/
Last month while I was at Laguna Seca it failed. The break occurred at the front just at the end of the aluminum to carbon fiber coupler.
http://gallery.me.com/hapnermw#10000...&bgcolor=black
Prior to failure, downshifts entering turns became difficult. It was clear something was keeping the clutch from fully disengaging.
When it broke, the out of control end took out the weld connecting the front housing to the torq tube.
There was nothing in the HPDE use of the car that would account for this failure. Either this driveshaft was defective or its design is poor.
I gave ACPT a call to see what they would have to say about the failure. They took a message and never called me back.
If you are thinking about using an ACPT driveshaft, you might want to think twice
http://www.acpt.com/
Last edited by hapnermw; 06-19-2011 at 01:47 AM.
#6
Burning Brakes
Would love to see pics, but it needs fruit login info. Which end was it that failed? Was the transaxle end, or the clutch end? I'm havin a bit of trouble understanding the orientation.
I've had the DS installed since 2006 (bought from LG which I think may be the same manufacturer) and it's got about 8K miles on it or so. I'm curious to look at the damage.
CF is tricky, any knick or imperfection can lead to the broom of a thousand whiskers.
I've had the DS installed since 2006 (bought from LG which I think may be the same manufacturer) and it's got about 8K miles on it or so. I'm curious to look at the damage.
CF is tricky, any knick or imperfection can lead to the broom of a thousand whiskers.
Last edited by OKsweetrides; 06-16-2011 at 09:00 PM.
#7
Sorry about the picture issue ...
It failed at the front of the shaft. At the front there is an aluminum coupler that is inserted into the carbon fiber tube. Where the coupler ends and the carbon fiber is on its own, the shaft failed.
The shaft didn't have any scratches or nicks when it was installed. It likely had been incrementally failing for months because I noticed the track downshifting getting harder at a track day previous to when it failed.
It failed at the front of the shaft. At the front there is an aluminum coupler that is inserted into the carbon fiber tube. Where the coupler ends and the carbon fiber is on its own, the shaft failed.
The shaft didn't have any scratches or nicks when it was installed. It likely had been incrementally failing for months because I noticed the track downshifting getting harder at a track day previous to when it failed.
#8
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Nov 2000
Location: Merritt Island Florida
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Sorry about the picture issue ...
It failed at the front of the shaft. At the front there is an aluminum coupler that is inserted into the carbon fiber tube. Where the coupler ends and the carbon fiber is on its own, the shaft failed.
The shaft didn't have any scratches or nicks when it was installed. It likely had been incrementally failing for months because I noticed the track downshifting getting harder at a track day previous to when it failed.
It failed at the front of the shaft. At the front there is an aluminum coupler that is inserted into the carbon fiber tube. Where the coupler ends and the carbon fiber is on its own, the shaft failed.
The shaft didn't have any scratches or nicks when it was installed. It likely had been incrementally failing for months because I noticed the track downshifting getting harder at a track day previous to when it failed.
i have a CF, but opted to go for pfadt and so far no problem, it has a hard life behind my 472 Katech engine in GT2 racing
So maybe we can change the discussion to a bad CF product and not all ?
Or is there reports on failure of Pfadt product also ? anyone ?
Rune
#10
Drifting
#11
Melting Slicks
I have seen the machine that Pfadt engineered to torture there CF drive shafts, and I am very comfortable putting one in my car
#12
Safety Car
ACPT may be the OEM for all the shafts (LG, Pfadt). Mark Williams gets their shafts from them as well.
Any differences may be in the aluminum ends and the bonding technique.
Stuff breaks at the race track. Including the revised stock aluminum shafts.
Any differences may be in the aluminum ends and the bonding technique.
Stuff breaks at the race track. Including the revised stock aluminum shafts.
#13
Pro
ACPT may be the OEM for all the shafts (LG, Pfadt).
As the song goes "One of these things is not like the other".
#14
350z's run carbon driveshafts and they run fine for 100k + miles. I agree with everything that was posted though, if there is any damage on the driveshaft, or if it's out of balance the driveshaft is defective & in time it will go bad.
#15
Here is the correct URL for the picture of the failed shaft.
http://gallery.me.com/hapnermw#10000...&bgcolor=black
http://gallery.me.com/hapnermw#10000...&bgcolor=black
Last edited by hapnermw; 06-17-2011 at 08:30 PM.
#17
#19
I had expected the end to have been solidly attached to the front rubber guibo but instead the bolts had broken loose and the coupler had thrashed around in the tube breaking the weld. I don't remember seeing the guibo. Possibly it was ripped off during the failure.
At the time I asked the mechanic if it was possible that the coupler had come loose causing the shaft to break instead of vice versa.
He felt the carnage was all the result of the tube breaking.
The failure was just a mild pop as I was braking for a corner.