johninar

Well, against the very sage advice from John Shiels I got my brakes on Friday and took them to Hallett this weekend. Got them installed and ready to go for the first session on Saturday. The install was very easy and straight forward. One thing that was a bit disappointing was there was no documentation of the calipers. Nothing in the boxes other than warranty disclaimers etc. I would have liked a parts list with part numbers and an exploded view drawing. I guess they figure you know what it is and how to find parts. The first thing I did was go down to the shop at Hallett and get some decent AN nuts and washers for the caliper stud mounting. They supply one-use aircraft nuts. Also the bleed screws look like they are begging to get snapped off. I'll be ordering replacements for that.

I had read about people having issues in the past with leaks and fittings not tightened properly. They may have fixed their QC issues as all lines and fittings were properly tightened. I pulled the wheels off a couple of times just to inspect and make sure everything was good.

Bleeding was a snap, and the pad retaining bolt is just a dream. Pads are .8" so there is a ton of meat on them.
I am using wilwood H pads front and rear. They were very well balanced and after you get a bit of heat in them they really bite! I picked up a ton of time going wayyy deep. The response is precise and really gave me a lot of confidence. I did put a new rotor on one wheel that had more than heat checking. Replaced with a new NAPA and it cracked after 1 15 minute session. After that I replaced it with a used street rotor and it held up for 7 sessions without issues.

Question: How(or what do you use) do you spread calipers when changing pads?

So those of you that have the Gstop kit, what rotors do you like? I do have DRM cooling ducts as of last week. I don't really care about the weight factor as much as I care about the best bang for the buck.
I really don't want to break the bank on rotors if I can help it, but I do have a long history of cracking rotors.

All I can say is I wish I had done this a long time ago.

Gstop kit http://lgmotorsports.com/C5-Parts-%2...duct_info.html

LEAVINU

I just changed out my pads and found rocking the rotor back and forth helped loosen the pads enough to get them out. Getting brand new pads back in was not fun so I ended up cracking each bleeder. Yeah, I lost some fluid but it made pushing the pistons back in a fair amount easier.

In for other/better suggestions though.

Bill Dearborn

I purchased a number of the aircraft nuts from LG once I saw they were supposed to be one time use. I went to a number of places in my local area and they said they couldn't get them. The nuts are not cheap but once I had them I never used them. I used the same nuts for 4 years and they always held up well. I guess that is because the studs really take all of the force and there isn't much force on the nut itself.

As for loosening the pads I used a screw driver at the ends of the pads. I just wedged it in between the pad ear and the rotor and twisted, moved, etc until the pads were loose. Once the pads were out I used a C clamp to push the pistons in all the way.

Bill

John Shiels

parts and exploded views are on the WW web site or use to be. I squeezed the pads pistons back with my hands.


not sure if this works but there are tools like it http://compare.ebay.com/like/2806373...=sbar&_lwgsi=y

leave old pad in and some channel locks with protection on the outside surface works too. C-clamp as Bill said is what I use on my trucks.


rotor you put on new was not seasoned that is why it cracked and the old one lasted. You can buy a mega dollar rotor and send it into thermal shock with instant track use and it will crack.

When I got mine I also order a bunch of spare parts for them. Just loosen the small bleeder inside the other fitting. Some here fail to realize that. Smaller bleeder is easy to replace if you booger it up.

I used NAPA while back and then went to Stoptech two piece from LGM for the front and front OEM one piece on the rears with WW SL-4.

OCCOMSRAZOR

PM sent.

Bill Dearborn

I forgot to mention the bleeders. On the SL6 the two part bleeder isn't something you can get at the local race shop. The local shop carries Wilwood parts for dirt track racers but the bleeders were different. He had to special order them for me. I screwed one up due to my own negligence but other than brain fade issues the bleeders were never an issue. I used a 7/16 open end wrench to hold the large part and a 5/16 or 1/4 inch to turn the smaller inner part. Definitely the way to go to protect the caliper body from people overtightening the bleeders.

Bill

johninar

Agreed! I just like to be prepared, and if you talk to my wife she will tell you that I have more than my fair share of "brain fade"

MJM

The only vendor I have found that supplies decent instructions is Gary at Hardbar. The rest leave a lot to be desired.

I have been using the same setup and pads for 3 years now, plenty of life left in those thick pads. I just squeeze with my hands when I have to put a new set of rotors on. There are very elegant tools made to do this job, the endurance racing teams use them to change the pads on 1000 degree brakes during pit stops. I'm just guessing, but those tools are probably out of my price range.

New rotors need to be 'bedded in'. You can find instructions on the web about this but basically you need to warm them up gently and give them time to cool down. This is best done a few days before your event with several 50 mph - 30 mph brake applications then several 70 mph - 50 mph brake applications followed by driving around to get air over the rotors as they cool.

Personally, I use NAPA rotors. When bedded in properly you will get several weekends out of them.

Have fun!

Bill Dearborn

Used NAPA rotors when I had my C5Z.

Bill

UstaB-GS549

I didn't get any instructions with my AP kit. did you?

SouthernSon

I had leaks on two different occassions with my SL6's. The plugs on the body were not bottomed on the seat. Since they had a sealant on them, I was hesitant to retorque until I identified the problem for certain. I was not impressed with the assembly.

Griot has a pad spreader used for Ferraris that works nicely but it is pricey.

I did not get my calipers from Hardbar but rather from another vendor whose customer support left a lot to be desired. You are correct about Gary at Hardbar having good instructions and customer support. He is now my first call on all business.

TheKomoman

I'll second the motion for C clamp and the old pad. That's exactly what I did last week when I put new pads in ahead of the VIR event. I just put a doubled-over workshop paper towel on the outside of the caliper and it worked like a charm.

Shock96

I have had good luck with the ATE rotors on my old track 911. ATE Premium One rotors are what I am talking about btw.



Tire Rack carries them for the Vette.

Also, I send all my rotors used on the track out for cryo. It will significantly reduce cracking and increase the life of the rotor.

MJM

I have Hardbar stuff, but not the Hardbar/AP brakes.

johninar

Update: I was checking the car over this weekend and discovered three leaks. Two plugs (sealed as mentioned above), and one crossover was leaking. Very impressive for $1500. I guess if you spend $3500 you get the non-leaking model. I had checked them when I put them on. I'm wondering if the heat is a factor?

I repeat, that these things should come with a product sheet at the very least. With part numbers and torque numbers. Is that asking too much?

mgarfias

Here you go:

http://www.wilwood.com/PDF/Flyers/fl76.pdf

At least this is the one for the wilwoods I have (wide-5 radial mount superlites)

0Todd TCE

The caliper is the narrowed body wide five version of the SL6 line. These calipers are fit with additional ports for recirculator systems often found in high temp circle track applications. The ports are 1/8npt and come with sealant pipe plugs for those folks not running the recirculation systems. When the are not used I'd take a moment to add some additional sealant to them and be certain they are tight.

The bleeders are different on the BSL6 than those found at many shops; these are M10-1.0 tapered seats whereas the DL and others are the older NPT thread. The bleeder nipple itself is the same 1/4-28 however. Removing the brass fitting you can do a single bleed screw if you wish. However...don't complain later if the caliper body seat is damaged from repeated tightening and requires the entire shell be replaced. There's a reason for the 2pc unit.

Nuts for radial brackets are subject to one's own choice to a point. Personally I use nothing but Jet-nuts which are good for a couple of services without issue. I also suggest (against the comments of some) that the stud and the threads have a light gloss of anti-seeze applied to it to combat corrosion in the bore. These nuts are available from a number of sources for about $1ea in 3/8-24 thread.

SouthernSon

John, you will find bubbles all way back to the MC and probably in the ABS module if it was actuated while driving. The leaks let air into the system badly. Personally, I just bled completely and then took it out on the road and hit the ABS hard several times and then bled completely again. Seemed to take out all the air.

redtopz

I have been running these calipers for about 3 years on my C5Z while going from track day car to TT to ST2 and T1. I never had any issues with leaking or any problems with the calipers. However, I just upgraded to the AP T1 brake kit from Hardbar since my car is 100% race now. I will be selling the G-stop kit if anyone is interested.

Bill.

johninar

Never had a problem with air. I used my Motive and the braking has been nothing but solid1