sothpaw2

Greetings!

Was at the track Mon-Tues and when I got back into my driving routine from last year and on a hot day I saw some higher coolant temp than I'd like. 240-248 when I was running hard and not short shifting. Heck, last session I was short shifting and still got to 248.

I was wondering for those of you that might have a stand alone (I have the DRM which is the Setrab heat exchanger) oil cooler and the stock radiator, is this what you're seeing? My paddock mate (Thanks again for all the help!) was really watching oil temp but did say he saw 220's maybe 230ish on the coolant after I started mentioning what I was seeing. So mine seems 10-15 high anyway.

Just wondering if this is because the Setrab mounts in front of the stock radiator or because I need to take some serious time and go through the whole cooling system. I have previously made very certain that every leaf/debris is gone (dead leaves, Miatas, etc).

Thanks,

Andy

Jason

I have a front mounted oil cooler also and saw 239 water temp during a hard race in June in Atl. A few folks mentioned I should get my radiator cleaned and flushed before doing anything more drastic.

sothpaw2

Thanks, Jason. Is this with 50/50 coolant or mostly water?? Mine is far worse since I was short shifting, I doubt you were.

gmccreary

I recently had a Dewit's aluminum radiator and Setrab 625 stand alone oil cooler installed in my 01 C5Z. The A/C condensor was also removed. Previously I was seeing 240+ on coolant and 285+ oil temps during 20 min sessions. Last month at Road Atlanta with a 90+ ambient temp I saw a max of 217 coolant and 252 oil. I'm running straight water + water wetter in the radiator.

Jason

Just water+wetter, and I definitely wasn't short shifting.

RX-Ben

How much water are you running?
How well sealed off is your radiator (i.e. - the side)?

ScaryFast

Yeah, I'm with RX Ben, make sure you've sealed all areas around the radiator that allow air to escape. I've used Great Stuff foam and squirted it all around. Although I recently read that it's flammable so I will find something similar that is not! Like you've already said, make sure it's also clean. Also, run straight water (plus wetter or pump lube).

Take the radiator out and straighten the fins (with a pick or small screwdriver) as well. This made a big difference for me this year. It's a **** job, but do it anyway

I Run my oil cooler in front of the Radiator and I'm happy with my water temps. However, I have a DeWitts radiator as well so it's not a fair comparison.

Bottom line - 248 is too high IMO. I'd shoot for 220 - 240.

sothpaw2

I'll have to look into the details; I have not sealed anything off in particular--I haven't done anything to it...it is sealed as well as GM delivered it. And how much...I don't over fill it or anything.

For sure the straight water would be a big + I was just trying to figure if there was something wrong with my system internally or with the fins etc.

How long will my waterpump lasts with say 80% water, 20% coolant, and some water wetter? Lubrication scares me.

RacePro Engineering

Unless the manufacturer has changed the formulation recently, this stuff is definitely NOT flamable in any stretch of the immagination!

We use it for everything. The spaces around the new car's cage are sealed in with it! One can hold a propane torch to it -- nothing!

Ed

GOTHAM VETTE

Jason

They also sell a version that meets California Fire Code #blah blah blah.

RDnomorecobra

i think the warning is to not spray it in presence of a flame. I think it's fire resistant once it cures.

davidfarmer

240's water temps is OK in a pressurized system just make sure your hoses are in good shape.

Morris should chime in, I just installed the DRM stand alone cooler for him and he was very happy. I think it knocked something like 60º off of his summer oil temp. He didn't mention water temps

Expensive though, but it comes with brackets, pre-made lines, and a nice block adapter. Still a PITA to install, but a nice setup!


btw, I also removed his radiator and cleaned the damn thing out. Since I also removed is AC components, it gives you the opportunity to see how cruddy the radiator actually is (trash gets sandwiched between the radiator and condenser). I imagine cleaning the radiator helped the oil temps also.

drivinhard

Jason, short shift?

sperkins

Maybe Falcon will chime in. He just went through this mess recently.

As for me, I also have a stand alone oil cooler and a 12yr old stock radiator. I've also removed the condensor and blocked off the side gaps with plastic. I've never cleaned it and my car runs 230 max with straight water and water wetter driving the **** out of it.

ScaryFast

Yeah, i remember seeing something on the can about it being flammable. Must only be until it is cured if you've put a propane torch on it!

ScaryFast

Short shifting, though, right?

ScaryFast

Why is that? I've run mine this way for years. You need two things - corrosion resistance and lubrication. Glycol is terribly inefficient.

0Randy@DRM

We have been seeing a lot of stock radiators that flat out need to be replaced. Once 1/2 the fins are knocked over or they get plugged up with crap on the inside. It's over the radiator is junk. Even my wife's car making 110 horsepower required a radiator replacement.

You can test the radiator using your hand with the fans removed. Feel for a cold spot. Or if the fins are bent over, you can straighten them. It's not a fun project but it helps. Wind, rocks, track crap and etc can push over a fin like a hot knife in butter.

The stand alone coolers in front of the radiator do increase water temps a bit, but not that much.

Randy

sothpaw2

Thanks for all the replies fellas! I will have a close look at the fins and also see if I can close any gaps. But it sounds like there might not be too much wrong w/the system.

Scary--is 80/20 your combo? How do you achieve it? I was thinking of just draining & refilling the rad with the DI water. I'm not sure how much the block holds but I'd bet there's a decent capacity there and everything now is 50/50.