Building a tire trailer and need some help with dimensions
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Member Since: Nov 2009
Location: Cape elizabeth Me
Posts: 380
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Building a tire trailer and need some help with dimensions
I purchased a 40"x48" trailer to pull behind my vette. I will have either 245/35/18 & 295/30/19 or 265/35/18 & 305/30/19. I found an autobody guy willing to weld a rack like what is pictured. I just need to give him the specs Can anyone share?
Can someone share specs and a picture of a locking bar?
Can someone share specs and a picture of a locking bar?
Last edited by fennerhillpro; 07-19-2011 at 02:28 PM.
#3
Burning Brakes
For a locking bar, I use a metal pipe about 1 1/2" dia with 2 holes drilled in both ends. I then use a lock with a long enough loop to go thru it. Just be sure the space between the lock loop is half the pipe width because one side of the loop goes thru the pipe and the other goes outside of the pipe.
Your picture shows a a rectangle locking bar mounts. The same approach could be done with that.
Sorry, don't have your tire sizes. Lay one on the side and measure the height. Then multiply that times how many you intend to carry. You can measure the tire dia the same way and space the retaining bars a few inches less than that.
Good luck,
Ed
Your picture shows a a rectangle locking bar mounts. The same approach could be done with that.
Sorry, don't have your tire sizes. Lay one on the side and measure the height. Then multiply that times how many you intend to carry. You can measure the tire dia the same way and space the retaining bars a few inches less than that.
Good luck,
Ed
#4
Melting Slicks
I can't tell you about the trailer,
but I do have 4 tires EXACTLY the sizes you mention (the 2nd set).
They are Toyo R888 tires,
265x35x18
305x30x19
I will measure the tire widths for you.... just a sec.....
Fronts are 10.5" wide (section width) and 25.5" diameter (inflated and mounted on 10x18 wheels)
Rears are 12.3" wide (section width) and 26.3 " diameter (inflated and mounted on 11x19 wheels).
By the way, I have a set of these Toyo R888 tires for sale.
They are about 50% gone, but would be GREAT for scrubs/testing.
See details in this thread......
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...-for-sale.html
Good Luck
but I do have 4 tires EXACTLY the sizes you mention (the 2nd set).
They are Toyo R888 tires,
265x35x18
305x30x19
I will measure the tire widths for you.... just a sec.....
Fronts are 10.5" wide (section width) and 25.5" diameter (inflated and mounted on 10x18 wheels)
Rears are 12.3" wide (section width) and 26.3 " diameter (inflated and mounted on 11x19 wheels).
By the way, I have a set of these Toyo R888 tires for sale.
They are about 50% gone, but would be GREAT for scrubs/testing.
See details in this thread......
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...-for-sale.html
Good Luck
Last edited by NTMD8R; 07-19-2011 at 05:20 PM.
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
Member Since: Nov 2009
Location: Cape elizabeth Me
Posts: 380
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Any chance I could get a picture and a few measurements
For a locking bar, I use a metal pipe about 1 1/2" dia with 2 holes drilled in both ends. I then use a lock with a long enough loop to go thru it. Just be sure the space between the lock loop is half the pipe width because one side of the loop goes thru the pipe and the other goes outside of the pipe.
Your picture shows a a rectangle locking bar mounts. The same approach could be done with that.
Sorry, don't have your tire sizes. Lay one on the side and measure the height. Then multiply that times how many you intend to carry. You can measure the tire dia the same way and space the retaining bars a few inches less than that.
Good luck,
Ed
Your picture shows a a rectangle locking bar mounts. The same approach could be done with that.
Sorry, don't have your tire sizes. Lay one on the side and measure the height. Then multiply that times how many you intend to carry. You can measure the tire dia the same way and space the retaining bars a few inches less than that.
Good luck,
Ed
#6
Burning Brakes
Here is a picture. The locks go thru two aligned holes in both ends of the pipe thru the wheels. In case you are wondering, the white cover keeps the sun off of the rubber and the white plywood end pieces are for the same purpose. This is mounted on an open trailer between the car and a storage box. Capacity is 12 tires, I think. Have not filled it up in some time. I currently have a spare set of soft compounds and a set of wets in the racks with two trailer spares. Pipes thru the wheels can be removed from either side of the trailer.
Not sure what measurements you need, but space between the ends is the width of the trailer bed, 83" I think. I originally used 17" wheels, but spaced the two racks so I could carry 18". I now have only 18" wheels.
Let me know if you have any questions or want specific dimensions.
Not sure what measurements you need, but space between the ends is the width of the trailer bed, 83" I think. I originally used 17" wheels, but spaced the two racks so I could carry 18". I now have only 18" wheels.
Let me know if you have any questions or want specific dimensions.
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
Member Since: Nov 2009
Location: Cape elizabeth Me
Posts: 380
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks here is my question on specs. I seems 44" will give me 2" of play across. I am trying to decided if I should use 1" or 11/2" square tube for the frame and what thickness. Also how wide should the craddle be I am guessing somewhere between 17" and 19". Also the height of the bar seem to need to be lower enough to put pressure on the tires so they don't move
Anyone know exactly?
Anyone know exactly?
#8
Burning Brakes
Do not know exactly, but here are some thoughts:
1. Rather than square tubing, use pipe. There is no sharp edge to damage, imprint, or wedge the tire. 1 ½” dia. pipe should be strong enough. Cannot get to mine at this time to measure it, but I think it is 2” dia.
.
2. Cradle should probably be more than half the width of the tire but not more than 2/3 width of the tire. You want the tire sitting in the cradle so it does not bounce, but not so deep that it wedges itself in during transit.
3. Another approach to the cradle is to use the cradle to contain the tires from movement and let the trailer bed carry the weight. The bed can be nothing more than plywood. That is the approach I took, as shown in my picture. If you are using the width including the fender, as shown in the original post, this may not work.
4. The height of the bar should be as close to the center of the wheel center when the tire is in the cradle. No pressure should be needed if you take the approach in #2. Loading and unloading the bar will be difficult if you are trying to apply pressure with it. Allow it to slide freely through the wheel and mountings. Don’t make using the trailer more difficult than is absolutely necessary.
5. Be flexible in the height of the bar. Allow for a different size tire to be hauled rather than making the trailer specific to a certain size tire. This is important later as you might change tire sizes, or the buyer of your trailer years from not does.
6. 2” of play across may be enough, but be sure you have working room for your fingers. Try test handling the tires within the cradle width you think is correct and see if works for you. Frame one up out of 2x4’s. Also there will be variations in tire width depending on size (if you change), manufacturer, inflation and effect of heat.
Hope this helps.
1. Rather than square tubing, use pipe. There is no sharp edge to damage, imprint, or wedge the tire. 1 ½” dia. pipe should be strong enough. Cannot get to mine at this time to measure it, but I think it is 2” dia.
.
2. Cradle should probably be more than half the width of the tire but not more than 2/3 width of the tire. You want the tire sitting in the cradle so it does not bounce, but not so deep that it wedges itself in during transit.
3. Another approach to the cradle is to use the cradle to contain the tires from movement and let the trailer bed carry the weight. The bed can be nothing more than plywood. That is the approach I took, as shown in my picture. If you are using the width including the fender, as shown in the original post, this may not work.
4. The height of the bar should be as close to the center of the wheel center when the tire is in the cradle. No pressure should be needed if you take the approach in #2. Loading and unloading the bar will be difficult if you are trying to apply pressure with it. Allow it to slide freely through the wheel and mountings. Don’t make using the trailer more difficult than is absolutely necessary.
5. Be flexible in the height of the bar. Allow for a different size tire to be hauled rather than making the trailer specific to a certain size tire. This is important later as you might change tire sizes, or the buyer of your trailer years from not does.
6. 2” of play across may be enough, but be sure you have working room for your fingers. Try test handling the tires within the cradle width you think is correct and see if works for you. Frame one up out of 2x4’s. Also there will be variations in tire width depending on size (if you change), manufacturer, inflation and effect of heat.
Hope this helps.
#10
Wow. WAY fancier than the one I built to pull behind my drag Mustang - I just run a cable lock through the wheels when I need to secure them overnight somewhere...
http://techweasel.blogsome.com/2010/...hors-a-vacuum/
http://techweasel.blogsome.com/2010/...hors-a-vacuum/