LSOHOLIC

I have a question about a wheel and tire setup for HPDE's ?? Which combination would yeild better results and please explain ??

1) Factory original C4 ZR1 17x9.5 w/295-35-17 Hoosier R6 & 17x11 w/335-35-17 Hoosier R6.

2) Factory original C6 ZO6 Speedlines 18x9.5 w/295-30-18 Hoosier R6 & 19x12 w/345-30-19 Hoosier R6.

Unsprung weight of the wheels and tires are very similar, so which one would be quicker ?? And FYI, this is a 2860lb C5 ZO6 with 500rwhp.

Thanks.........

LSOHOLIC

So obviously I'm running L5's in the rear and pics would be great !!!!!

Thanks........

Jason

Whichever you already have, or whichever is cheaper. Neither is an optimal set up to me, but YMMV.

LSOHOLIC

If you dont mind.....could you elaborate on why ??? I understand that C5 ZO6 18's w/315's on all four corners is popular but....the L5's in the back allow me wider rubber so I figured I'd take advantage of that. And FYI, I dont own either yet....thats why I posted. So I would be educated before I purchase.

Thanks...

LSOHOLIC

OK.....lets try a different angle. What tire combo do C6 ZO6 car run on a road course (I basically have the same fender dimensions). Like this;

Here is some info on the track I attend; track has 10 turns in 1.8 miles (2.9 km), and over 80 feet (24 m) of elevation change. The track can also be configured to run both clockwise and counter-clockwise, yielding two distinct race courses.

Again thanks..........

TRACKMAN2

id go with the 17 inch setup with kuhmos inted of hoozes they wear much better are a liitle cheaper and are unefected by heat cycles go as wide as you can fit .. get a good track allignment it will help wear tremendously and will help u turn alot better.. start with @ 29 psi and work it out from there.....

LSOHOLIC

Thanks for the response...which kuhmos would you be referring to ?? ECSTA XS ?? My only concern is the 180 wear rating vs the 40 of the Hoosiers ?? How would that play out on the track ??

Thanks............

TRACKMAN2

v710s

2000BSME

Wear rating is not standardized between manufacturers.

LSOHOLIC

Would the 710's make a 60 mile round trip to the track ??

Thanks..........

rfn026

i used to drive to Sebring on my 710s. It was over 60 miles. Just hope it doesn't rain.

Richard Newton
Vintage Motorsport Magazine

LSOHOLIC

Could we compare 710's vs R6's.

Heres the facts:

60 mile round trip to the track
4-6 15 minutes sessions around a 1.8 mile track
500rwhp, 6 speed, 3020lbs w/me

My main question is which tire heats up quicker and which one "gets greasy" quicker ??

And longevitiy ?? 710's or R6's ??

db2xpert

Can't speak to 710's... I get 8-10 track days from my R6's, and 6-8 from A6. I would not drive to the track with them on the car.
Alignment is critical, as is driving style and ability.
I usually get a couple more form the rears. Running 295/30-18 and 335/30-18.

First it's a racing slick and any rain or sudden dampness would be dangerous. Second, they are NOT street legal, so if a cop stopped you, that would be another expensive ticket. Don't know if they could prohibit you from driving any further or not.

How did you get your weight down to 2860?

Joel

mountainbiker2

There is a lot of us that go to autocross events that drive to the track on Kumho V710 and Hoosiers A6's. I personally drive 140 miles round trip to every event. I get 60 laps, plus 5 drives. Hoosiers A6's. Been caught in the rain a few times. Drive 50 mph and pray to GOD you get home. So far my prayers have been answered.

Steve A.

LSOHOLIC

Actually I'm closer yo 2880 with the speedlines and 2820 with the drag pack setup...yes I also drag race the car . That being said, I actually drag race it a lot more that road race. A lot of my mods are directed towards that sport other than the road race deal. But I love my local 1.8 mile track but....it is a drive . Guess I'm spoiled; drag strip=15 miles and 1.8 mle road course 35miles away.

And not gutted at all !! Matter of fact the only change to the interior is a seat upgrade with custom aluminum sliders/brackets.

I don't find it hard to cut weight on a car that came from the factory weighting 3050 give or take 30lbs.

'04 C5Z;
1)aluminum flywheel
2)air pump delete
3)LT's, X-pipe, no-cats,
4)homemade catback with bullets (7lbs each), just straight over the axle to the tips, Five pounds lighter than the factory Ti.
5)ACP hood
6)Braile knock-off
7)FX Pro 1's with aluminum frames
8)Nitto NT-O5's on factory Speedlines
9)Depo's
10)Lots of small stuff removed....ect

I'm sure I'm forgetting something but thats all I can remember right now...but lighter rotors are next..maybe. Keep that rotating mass LOW !!

This was weighted at the local certified CAT scale. I would assume it to be accurate within 10lbs. Understand this was with about 1 gal of fuel or less (reserve light was on) and everything removed like floor mats and washer fluid. I wanted to see how light I could get it. I find it kind of simple, you take care of the ounces and the pounds take care of them selves.

Example; when I was putting the exhaust on they sent 6 of these big splice clamps for the exhaust junctions. I decided to tack it instead, after weighting the clamps (combined weight of the clamps was like 12lbs).

Thanks......and I really haven't tried CUT weight yet. These are just typical mods done with weight in mind.

With the drag pack on I'm closer to 2820lb.
Racestar 17x4.5's with M&H 185/55/17's (19lbs-ish) and OEM GS 17x11's with Hoosier DR 315/35/17's (41lbs-ish).

Thanks guys....And....I thought the R6's were DOT legal.

TRACKMAN2

i kumho v710 they wear much better than hooses and are good tires for a long time i run big tracks on tires that were years old and got good times.. hooses are a tick faster and handel heat a liittle better but like i say wear out much faster i get about 10 good track days out of a set of 710s i have had tread seperation issues in the past but just ignore them until there really bad driving on the street with any of these is not really a good idea...

ScaryFast

All of these tires are DOT legal, hence the mandatory one or two grooves and the DOT-R certification. However, you're killing them by driving them on the street, it's not miles but the number of times you heat them up (aka heat cycles) which will destroy them.

Each time you heat them and cool them you are changing the property of the rubber, as if you were curing the tire over and over. They get hard and slow long before they run out of rubber. People run them to the cords so they do not destroy their street tires, but R compound tires stop being "fast" after 10 HC or so, depending on the brand. It seems that people get more out of the V710 but I have not run those in years.

As for driving in the rain? I don't worry about it. Yeah, slow down, obviously. I race slicks in the rain from time to time. It's hair-raising, but unless you're hydroplaing it's not as deadly as everyone wants you to believe.

That is NOT a recommendation, just what I have done.