Portland Int Raceway vs Brakes
#1
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Portland Int Raceway vs Brakes
Hi all
Calling all PIR locals for a bit of feedback on brakes
As you guys know PIR is a bit tough on pincers !
I Track my 470rwhp 08 z51 everytime i can at my local track PIR, with pfadt coilovers, hotchkiss swaybars, cambers plates and shims, Re-11 tires in 305 rear and 265 front, and pretty much everytime have to get a new set of pads and rotors.
I have DRM cooling ducts and hoses, braided hoses and ATI super blue fluid, run stock rotors with Carbotech pads that from what I experienced are about the most rotor friendly, yet I still am a little short on pads and rotor for a second track day on the same pads and rotors ...
I run the car hard, but not out of sense, and I am starting to wonder if a BBK brake upgrade is in order.
Now seen the cost of the install of a stoptech or similar system for the 4 wheels and associated wheels upgrade to fit (z51) I am a little shy on releaving my wallet of that very amount ....
Is there any cost benefit to run these kind of big brake kits over the stock brakes ? The oem rotors are fairly affordable, if weak ... how long would a BBK rotor/pad last ?
Fellow portlanders, running corvettes regularly at PIR, what is your braking weapon of choice ?
Upgraded stock on aftermarket rotors and pads ?
Full on aftermarket BBK ?
If yes/no how many PIR track days do you get out of one set of rotors/pads for BBK ?, upgraded stock ? what do you run ? recomend ?
Im I the only one going through one set a day ? (still got some meat on the pads but not enough for a full day, front rotors all cracked)
Thanks very much for your feedback !
O
Calling all PIR locals for a bit of feedback on brakes
As you guys know PIR is a bit tough on pincers !
I Track my 470rwhp 08 z51 everytime i can at my local track PIR, with pfadt coilovers, hotchkiss swaybars, cambers plates and shims, Re-11 tires in 305 rear and 265 front, and pretty much everytime have to get a new set of pads and rotors.
I have DRM cooling ducts and hoses, braided hoses and ATI super blue fluid, run stock rotors with Carbotech pads that from what I experienced are about the most rotor friendly, yet I still am a little short on pads and rotor for a second track day on the same pads and rotors ...
I run the car hard, but not out of sense, and I am starting to wonder if a BBK brake upgrade is in order.
Now seen the cost of the install of a stoptech or similar system for the 4 wheels and associated wheels upgrade to fit (z51) I am a little shy on releaving my wallet of that very amount ....
Is there any cost benefit to run these kind of big brake kits over the stock brakes ? The oem rotors are fairly affordable, if weak ... how long would a BBK rotor/pad last ?
Fellow portlanders, running corvettes regularly at PIR, what is your braking weapon of choice ?
Upgraded stock on aftermarket rotors and pads ?
Full on aftermarket BBK ?
If yes/no how many PIR track days do you get out of one set of rotors/pads for BBK ?, upgraded stock ? what do you run ? recomend ?
Im I the only one going through one set a day ? (still got some meat on the pads but not enough for a full day, front rotors all cracked)
Thanks very much for your feedback !
O
#2
Drifting
I'm on wilwood SL6Rs on OE sized rotors. One nice thing about them is the 20mm thick pad, and they don't taper like the OE calipers. Unfortuantely I haven't been able to hit the track since I put them on. Maybe one of these days.
Oh, and pads are cheaper than pads for the OE calipers.
Oh, and pads are cheaper than pads for the OE calipers.
#3
Safety Car
I'm running Carbotech XP10s F&R on my C5 with SSBC Tri force calipers and Stoptech 2 piece rotors. I get 4 to 5 days out of the pads (C6s eat them faster) and so far I've gotten 9 days out of the rotors and I'm expecting to get about 15 to 18 days before they crack. For me at $150 per rotor ring lasting 15 days vs stock rotors at $50 ea lasting 3 days I'm money and lots of labor ahead. I have two friends with well set up C6Zs that are both getting 18 days out of Stoptech rotor rings. Both those guys use Stoptech calipers and they drive hard.
#4
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St. Jude Donor '11,'13
Hi all
Calling all PIR locals for a bit of feedback on brakes
As you guys know PIR is a bit tough on pincers !
I Track my 470rwhp 08 z51 everytime i can at my local track PIR, with pfadt coilovers, hotchkiss swaybars, cambers plates and shims, Re-11 tires in 305 rear and 265 front, and pretty much everytime have to get a new set of pads and rotors.
I have DRM cooling ducts and hoses, braided hoses and ATI super blue fluid, run stock rotors with Carbotech pads that from what I experienced are about the most rotor friendly, yet I still am a little short on pads and rotor for a second track day on the same pads and rotors ...
I run the car hard, but not out of sense, and I am starting to wonder if a BBK brake upgrade is in order.
Now seen the cost of the install of a stoptech or similar system for the 4 wheels and associated wheels upgrade to fit (z51) I am a little shy on releaving my wallet of that very amount ....
Is there any cost benefit to run these kind of big brake kits over the stock brakes ? The oem rotors are fairly affordable, if weak ... how long would a BBK rotor/pad last ?
Fellow portlanders, running corvettes regularly at PIR, what is your braking weapon of choice ?
Upgraded stock on aftermarket rotors and pads ?
Full on aftermarket BBK ?
If yes/no how many PIR track days do you get out of one set of rotors/pads for BBK ?, upgraded stock ? what do you run ? recomend ?
Im I the only one going through one set a day ? (still got some meat on the pads but not enough for a full day, front rotors all cracked)
Thanks very much for your feedback !
O
Calling all PIR locals for a bit of feedback on brakes
As you guys know PIR is a bit tough on pincers !
I Track my 470rwhp 08 z51 everytime i can at my local track PIR, with pfadt coilovers, hotchkiss swaybars, cambers plates and shims, Re-11 tires in 305 rear and 265 front, and pretty much everytime have to get a new set of pads and rotors.
I have DRM cooling ducts and hoses, braided hoses and ATI super blue fluid, run stock rotors with Carbotech pads that from what I experienced are about the most rotor friendly, yet I still am a little short on pads and rotor for a second track day on the same pads and rotors ...
I run the car hard, but not out of sense, and I am starting to wonder if a BBK brake upgrade is in order.
Now seen the cost of the install of a stoptech or similar system for the 4 wheels and associated wheels upgrade to fit (z51) I am a little shy on releaving my wallet of that very amount ....
Is there any cost benefit to run these kind of big brake kits over the stock brakes ? The oem rotors are fairly affordable, if weak ... how long would a BBK rotor/pad last ?
Fellow portlanders, running corvettes regularly at PIR, what is your braking weapon of choice ?
Upgraded stock on aftermarket rotors and pads ?
Full on aftermarket BBK ?
If yes/no how many PIR track days do you get out of one set of rotors/pads for BBK ?, upgraded stock ? what do you run ? recomend ?
Im I the only one going through one set a day ? (still got some meat on the pads but not enough for a full day, front rotors all cracked)
Thanks very much for your feedback !
O
__________________
Adam Adelstein
Amp’D Autosport.com
Internet's largest retailer of Carbotech Performance Brake Pads.
PH:216-780-8825.
Email: sales@ampdautosport.com
Web Site & Direct ordering http://ampdautosport.com/
All major CC and Pay Pal accepted.
Check out Promo code:z28
Adam Adelstein
Amp’D Autosport.com
Internet's largest retailer of Carbotech Performance Brake Pads.
PH:216-780-8825.
Email: sales@ampdautosport.com
Web Site & Direct ordering http://ampdautosport.com/
All major CC and Pay Pal accepted.
Check out Promo code:z28
#5
Racer
C5Z, Nitto NT-01's. I am running a front (6 piston) and rear (4 piston) stoptech BBK with Colbalt XR2 front pads and rear (whatever the rear kit came with from stoptech).
I typically run at both Pacific and Portland which I feel are equally hard on brakes. I typically get 8+ full day events out of a set of front rotors (hats) and pads. The rotors show some heat-checks but nothing out of the ordinary. I will be trying out Hawk DTC-70's next.
I typically run at both Pacific and Portland which I feel are equally hard on brakes. I typically get 8+ full day events out of a set of front rotors (hats) and pads. The rotors show some heat-checks but nothing out of the ordinary. I will be trying out Hawk DTC-70's next.
#6
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Thanks much for the insights guys, much appreciated.
Looks like it would be worth the money... don't mind paying more as long as I get more out of it.
I'll link up a video of my last track day soon, to give an idea of what the brakes go through.
Cheers,
O
Looks like it would be worth the money... don't mind paying more as long as I get more out of it.
I'll link up a video of my last track day soon, to give an idea of what the brakes go through.
Cheers,
O
#7
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Used to XP10 in front and XP8 in the back. even like that rotors show enough cracks to discourage me from running another full day on them.
Last track day was with Xp12 in front. liked the performance but the rotors look like they really had a hard time. lotsa cracks all over the surface and also radiating from drilled holes...
You guys offer pads for stoptech and other calippers right ? what kind of price do they run ? where is the best place to get them ?
cheers,
O
Last track day was with Xp12 in front. liked the performance but the rotors look like they really had a hard time. lotsa cracks all over the surface and also radiating from drilled holes...
You guys offer pads for stoptech and other calippers right ? what kind of price do they run ? where is the best place to get them ?
cheers,
O
#8
Race Director
I am not an expert, but I finally got to run PIR on Monday. We got 5 sessions and by the last run I felt I was doing fairly well. Hitting 130's in the front straight and 120 on the back. The back scares me a bit. Anyway I am running stock calipers, DBA4000 rotors and XP10/XP8 front and rear, Toyo R888 for rubber.
Anyway rotor wear was almost zero, the pads look good with a bit of taper. Like I said I am still new to HDPE's and am probably pretty easy on the brakes still compare to you.
Anyway rotor wear was almost zero, the pads look good with a bit of taper. Like I said I am still new to HDPE's and am probably pretty easy on the brakes still compare to you.
#9
Hi all
Calling all PIR locals for a bit of feedback on brakes
As you guys know PIR is a bit tough on pincers !
I Track my 470rwhp 08 z51 everytime i can at my local track PIR, with pfadt coilovers, hotchkiss swaybars, cambers plates and shims, Re-11 tires in 305 rear and 265 front, and pretty much everytime have to get a new set of pads and rotors.
I have DRM cooling ducts and hoses, braided hoses and ATI super blue fluid, run stock rotors with Carbotech pads that from what I experienced are about the most rotor friendly, yet I still am a little short on pads and rotor for a second track day on the same pads and rotors ...
I run the car hard, but not out of sense, and I am starting to wonder if a BBK brake upgrade is in order.
Now seen the cost of the install of a stoptech or similar system for the 4 wheels and associated wheels upgrade to fit (z51) I am a little shy on releaving my wallet of that very amount ....
Is there any cost benefit to run these kind of big brake kits over the stock brakes ? The oem rotors are fairly affordable, if weak ... how long would a BBK rotor/pad last ?
Fellow portlanders, running corvettes regularly at PIR, what is your braking weapon of choice ?
Upgraded stock on aftermarket rotors and pads ?
Full on aftermarket BBK ?
If yes/no how many PIR track days do you get out of one set of rotors/pads for BBK ?, upgraded stock ? what do you run ? recomend ?
Im I the only one going through one set a day ? (still got some meat on the pads but not enough for a full day, front rotors all cracked)
Thanks very much for your feedback !
O
Calling all PIR locals for a bit of feedback on brakes
As you guys know PIR is a bit tough on pincers !
I Track my 470rwhp 08 z51 everytime i can at my local track PIR, with pfadt coilovers, hotchkiss swaybars, cambers plates and shims, Re-11 tires in 305 rear and 265 front, and pretty much everytime have to get a new set of pads and rotors.
I have DRM cooling ducts and hoses, braided hoses and ATI super blue fluid, run stock rotors with Carbotech pads that from what I experienced are about the most rotor friendly, yet I still am a little short on pads and rotor for a second track day on the same pads and rotors ...
I run the car hard, but not out of sense, and I am starting to wonder if a BBK brake upgrade is in order.
Now seen the cost of the install of a stoptech or similar system for the 4 wheels and associated wheels upgrade to fit (z51) I am a little shy on releaving my wallet of that very amount ....
Is there any cost benefit to run these kind of big brake kits over the stock brakes ? The oem rotors are fairly affordable, if weak ... how long would a BBK rotor/pad last ?
Fellow portlanders, running corvettes regularly at PIR, what is your braking weapon of choice ?
Upgraded stock on aftermarket rotors and pads ?
Full on aftermarket BBK ?
If yes/no how many PIR track days do you get out of one set of rotors/pads for BBK ?, upgraded stock ? what do you run ? recomend ?
Im I the only one going through one set a day ? (still got some meat on the pads but not enough for a full day, front rotors all cracked)
Thanks very much for your feedback !
O
DB5000 rotors would last much longer for Z51.
#10
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Location: Cleveland OH
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St. Jude Donor '11,'13
Used to XP10 in front and XP8 in the back. even like that rotors show enough cracks to discourage me from running another full day on them.
Last track day was with Xp12 in front. liked the performance but the rotors look like they really had a hard time. lotsa cracks all over the surface and also radiating from drilled holes...
You guys offer pads for stoptech and other calippers right ? what kind of price do they run ? where is the best place to get them ?
cheers,
O
Last track day was with Xp12 in front. liked the performance but the rotors look like they really had a hard time. lotsa cracks all over the surface and also radiating from drilled holes...
You guys offer pads for stoptech and other calippers right ? what kind of price do they run ? where is the best place to get them ?
cheers,
O
#11
Sr.Random input generator
+1 on ST-43s. They have excellent bite, and have a very long life while being easy on rotors. Cons: They squeak way too much, especially if you have drilled rotors, though, making it embarrassing to even drive back to home In my opinion, drilled rotors are not a good idea for track duty anyways, so the mitigation is using blank or slotted rotors.
#12
you can extend useful life of your pads if you swap inner ones with outside ones in the middle of the day. inner ones tend to see more heat and wear (that could be different depending on caliper and air routing). if you do it right, you can also minimize the taper.
any upgrade that would give you a bigger, heavier rotor and/or thicker pad will help, since all those components will be able to absorb more energy before it starts breaking down the material in the pads and/or rotors. not to mention the heat that's going into your wheel bearings.
i also ended up running carbotech endurance compounds in my c5 once i could not get any other pad to last beyond first 50% of material before starting to disintegrate.
any upgrade that would give you a bigger, heavier rotor and/or thicker pad will help, since all those components will be able to absorb more energy before it starts breaking down the material in the pads and/or rotors. not to mention the heat that's going into your wheel bearings.
i also ended up running carbotech endurance compounds in my c5 once i could not get any other pad to last beyond first 50% of material before starting to disintegrate.
#13
Melting Slicks
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Raybestos-Ra...item3cb7da8915
The ST-43's are $177: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Raybestos-Ra...item3a666feb80
Last edited by Sidney004; 02-21-2012 at 03:11 AM.
#14
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St. Jude Donor '11,'13
you can extend useful life of your pads if you swap inner ones with outside ones in the middle of the day. inner ones tend to see more heat and wear (that could be different depending on caliper and air routing). if you do it right, you can also minimize the taper.
any upgrade that would give you a bigger, heavier rotor and/or thicker pad will help, since all those components will be able to absorb more energy before it starts breaking down the material in the pads and/or rotors. not to mention the heat that's going into your wheel bearings.
i also ended up running carbotech endurance compounds in my c5 once i could not get any other pad to last beyond first 50% of material before starting to disintegrate.
any upgrade that would give you a bigger, heavier rotor and/or thicker pad will help, since all those components will be able to absorb more energy before it starts breaking down the material in the pads and/or rotors. not to mention the heat that's going into your wheel bearings.
i also ended up running carbotech endurance compounds in my c5 once i could not get any other pad to last beyond first 50% of material before starting to disintegrate.
The RP2™ compound was engineered for endurance racing based on our highly successful XP™ Series formulations. RP2™ is our longest lasting compound that we offer. RP2™ has strong initial bite, a little less modulation than our XP12, but still maintains the rotor friendliness of our XP™ series compounds. With a good initial bite and one of the most consistent torque curves in the market the RP2™ compound is easy to keep a consistent bite and torque throughout the braking zone. Great fade resistance with a temperature range of 250°F to 1650°F+ (121°C to 898°C). RP2™ is as rotor friendly as our XP™ series compounds. Carbotech™ RP2™ is NOT recommended for use as a daily driven street pad due to possible elevated levels of dust and noise.
#15
Drifting
Am wondering about the cracks you describe. Maybe you are not getting the full life out of the rotors. small cracks are normal from he heat generated. If you can catch a finger nail, or a crack completely thru the rotor then its time to change them. Also, stay away form drilled rotors, they will cause failure way before the rotors wear out. Those holes are drilled after the rotor is made and they makes the surface weaker. Also the holes serve no real purpose. The modern day pads will not off gas much so there is no need to re leave the pressure.