Where are you buying Motul 600 brake fluid
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Where are you buying Motul 600 brake fluid
I am in Northern Ca., and will be replacing our rotors and pads, so it is a good time to replace the brake fluid. Any suppliers in Northern California? So far the closest place I found is in Southern California.
Also,, I have read that it takes 4 500ml bottles to completely replace existing fluid on a 2002 C5.... Is this true?
Motul RBF 600 Dot 4 is what I have read in the sticky's that works well on a road course.
Thanks
Also,, I have read that it takes 4 500ml bottles to completely replace existing fluid on a 2002 C5.... Is this true?
Motul RBF 600 Dot 4 is what I have read in the sticky's that works well on a road course.
Thanks
#2
Race Director
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Deal's Gap 2004 NCM Motorsports track supporter
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Actually, you might just try valvoline syntec 4 at first. If you notice any brake fade, then go to ATE 200 (amber or blue). Then, if you have brake fade, consider Castrol SRF and just hope you don't have to open a brake line somewhere necessitating full system bleed.
What year 201? Had a '69 chaparral here.
What year 201? Had a '69 chaparral here.
#3
Drifting
I am in Northern Ca., and will be replacing our rotors and pads, so it is a good time to replace the brake fluid. Any suppliers in Northern California? So far the closest place I found is in Southern California.
Also,, I have read that it takes 4 500ml bottles to completely replace existing fluid on a 2002 C5.... Is this true?
Motul RBF 600 Dot 4 is what I have read in the sticky's that works well on a road course.
Thanks
Also,, I have read that it takes 4 500ml bottles to completely replace existing fluid on a 2002 C5.... Is this true?
Motul RBF 600 Dot 4 is what I have read in the sticky's that works well on a road course.
Thanks
I normally use a bottle to bleed prior to a HPDE and two to clear most of the system when I feel it needs it. I don't flush the ABS.
#4
Race Director
I run Motul RBF 600 and get it at a local performance motorcycle shop for about $18 per 500 ml bottle.
I think you should get a good full system flush with 3 bottles.
Opened bottles have a short shelf life - probably not more than a couple weeks or a month. However, if you get 4 bottles and don't need to open the 4th one, it should last on the shelf for a good long while.
So.....call around to some local motorcycle shops and you might find some!!
Bob
I think you should get a good full system flush with 3 bottles.
Opened bottles have a short shelf life - probably not more than a couple weeks or a month. However, if you get 4 bottles and don't need to open the 4th one, it should last on the shelf for a good long while.
So.....call around to some local motorcycle shops and you might find some!!
Bob
#6
Burning Brakes
call Monty @ LPI Racing in Livermore
I am in Northern Ca., and will be replacing our rotors and pads, so it is a good time to replace the brake fluid. Any suppliers in Northern California? So far the closest place I found is in Southern California.
Also,, I have read that it takes 4 500ml bottles to completely replace existing fluid on a 2002 C5.... Is this true?
Motul RBF 600 Dot 4 is what I have read in the sticky's that works well on a road course.
Thanks
Also,, I have read that it takes 4 500ml bottles to completely replace existing fluid on a 2002 C5.... Is this true?
Motul RBF 600 Dot 4 is what I have read in the sticky's that works well on a road course.
Thanks
#8
Le Mans Master
I think 2 pints will thoroughly bleed the entire system. When you think about it the master cylinder is where the vast majority of the fluid is. The lines and the the calipers would have the rest. With newer pads I can't see more being necessary. When I bleed in between track events I run a pint through the system and have had no problems.
Regarding price I do a google search and see who has the best deal.
Regarding price I do a google search and see who has the best deal.
#10
Race Director
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Deal's Gap 2004 NCM Motorsports track supporter
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As far as bleeding all the fluid, it takes almost half of the entire bleed to get out the old from the RR of the total. Then almost a third of the remaining half at each of the other three corners on a C5. It was easy to determine this by swiching from ATE amber to ATE blue. If you use a pressure bleeder, you may not want to pump it up past 10psi. If the ignition switch is not on, which it should not be, then the ABS solenoids are not energized and you might unintentionally open a valve. (?, speculation, anyway). If you suspect ABS has some air, just take it out on the road and try to lock it up at safe speed to purge the unit. Then bleed again. Before pressure bleeding, pump pedal, without power, to scavenge the last of residual vacuum then bleed. I don't use the real expensive stuff anymore. Been there, done that - too many times. I find valvoline or ATE serve my purposes well. Important thing is to do it right before event in order to assure minimum water absorption. Do not over torque the bleed screws. They are soft and only require a minimum torque in order to not distort the seat.
#12
Le Mans Master
#13
Pro
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