crease-guard

I need a new set of wheel bearings for the track car. After much research, it seems the SKF race bearings are the bees knees for a track only car. So I'm going to get 4 of them.

Now, I've been looking at the ARP studs and wondering if it's really worth the extra cost.

Those of you with more knowledge and insight than I in regards to matters of this nature, please comment on if it's worth the extra money and why? Do the stock studs on the SKF have issues or is there really a significant advantage with the ARP studs.

Jay

davidfarmer

I would only change studs if you need them for spacers. As long as you don't over-torque your wheels, or remove/torque them HOT, they will last a lifetime.

95 ft-lbs is my max.

kmagvette

Well, a buddy and I were behind a car on the track that snapped all of the stock studs and sent a rear wheel/tire screaming across the track, bouncing off the wall and sailing over my car (it was way high). Both of us now run ARP studs.

I am sure that some other condition contributed to the wheel loss, but the sight of snapped bolts was enough for me.

crease-guard

I could see where that might be a motivating factor in your decision

Jay

CHJ In Virginia

If you have ever broken a wheel stud on track, you would not ask that question. The expenditure of over $1200 for the hubs is a longevity and safety item, IMHO is is silly not spend the extra $60 asnd get the ARP studs. The cost is peanuts compared to the safety they provide. Length is 1/2 " longer and it will allow use of spacers if necessary and still have enough thread left for safety. Be sure to have them pressed in rather than drawing in with an impact or using a hammer.

jfaphoenix32

we have had zero defects with the ARP studs.. In spite of the cost, I am installing them in all of my cars..

Joe

crease-guard

That's good enough for me.

Jay

UstaB-GS549

I have not had a problem with stock studs and I have been doing this since 1987.

You will need ARP studs if you:
Use an impact gun for removing or installing nuts.
Use lube on the threads and torque to 100 ft-lb.

I use a breaker bar to loosen and speed handle to remove and reinstall nuts. I go slowly when torqueing nuts by hand. The torque wrench does not limit torque applied, so going too fast can over torque.