matteo

Has anyone ever tried installing a used up and clean steel brake backing plate behind a set of worn but still good pads?
When I had my M3 it worked really well. When the front pads were down more than 50% and the rears were new, the F/R brake bias would go off and this would solve the problem. It was just a case of grinding off all the old pad material from the backing plate and sticking them behind. I could also wear the pads down a bit further before changing them. I know that stock car racing guys used to use this trick.
I've never tried it and have no idea if if it would have any advantage on a Corvette.

ZR1 MK

As new pads wear and allow space, I put my titanium plates first, than the old pad backing plates. Works fine. I used to do just the backing plates till I started using the titanium too as a better heat barrier.

geerookie

Same here. Been doing it for years with the stock calipers and more recently with my Wilwood calipers.

sothpaw2

Did you guys have your own grinder? I don't and worry about a shop rejecting the request due to the pad compound.

froggy47

I am curious about this practice. I can see where it would lower heat transfer to the caliper. That has benefits.

I use my pads down to 2-3 mm stock calipers & have not felt any issue with f/r balance or fade or other symptoms.

The only thing I notice as pads wear down is a softer pedal at initiatiion due to (normal) pad taper.

Of course this shimming would not correct any pad taper issue.

The caliper pots are designed to extend out to adjust for pad wear.

Am I missing something else or is it mainly just the heat?

sperkins

Where did you get yours Greg? I need some for my SL4R Wilwoods.

geerookie

These are 1mm thick and the best price anywhere. When I ordered I thought I would have to grind clearance for the bridge bolt but they came cut for the bridge bolt already so the picture was not for the one sent.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Red-De...DisplayId=1372

ZR1 MK

I use my own tools to remove pad material. Cutting wheel on portable grinder and belt sander.

Brakes perform better with pistons retracted.

I use Red Devil too for front and rear. Used fronts in rear that needed trimming. Ti is one strange material to cut.

waddisme

Will those fit C5Z stock calipers or will they have to be modified? Is the $100 Hardbrakes the only other option for the shields?

sperkins

Negative. I received mine yesterday. They are only for calipers that use the 74xx pad shape.

sperkins

Isn't yours mainly an autox car?

froggy47

Correct, but doing more track lately. Getting up to speed on these techniques. For track I put some pads on that are new to 60% wear left. Use up the "thin" pads on street/autox.

I can see if you have a 100% track car you need to find ways to get all the use out of a pad.

I am not crazy about have a loose shim in the caliper as a method though.

I do think the steel pots make a lot of sense (heat wise), but wouldn't they eventually wear the (softer) bore?

geerookie

You better hope the Stainless Steel or any kind of piston are not touching the bore. They are isolated by the brakefluid and the seals are the only thing touching the bore or the piston.

The shim isn't an issue. Once my pads get to 60% - 50% I insert a 1/4" spacer plus the shim to keep the pistons further back in the bore. This helps with tapering pads, piston bind and heat isolation.