Cleaning C5Z radiator help if you do your own please.
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
Cleaning C5Z radiator help if you do your own please.
I got hot temp warnings at a track day so here is what I found
You need to lift the a/c condensor off the coolant radiator to separate them & get some working space.
I am thinking cleaning this is good for a 10 deg or so drop in max temp which should keep the warning light on the dic off.
It was a 90 deg plus day & humid & shifty track so lots of high rpm.
The below pic is a fastener that I could not get back together, it holds the plastic shroud to an alum tab on the radiator on the other side (of the pic).
Need help if you guys figured out a work around on this, I think at high speed I need to have this fastened, it's not an issue off track.
The last clip secures the elec connector to the maf & it's cracked/broken, can you get these anywhere?
Thanks if you can help
You need to lift the a/c condensor off the coolant radiator to separate them & get some working space.
I am thinking cleaning this is good for a 10 deg or so drop in max temp which should keep the warning light on the dic off.
It was a 90 deg plus day & humid & shifty track so lots of high rpm.
The below pic is a fastener that I could not get back together, it holds the plastic shroud to an alum tab on the radiator on the other side (of the pic).
Need help if you guys figured out a work around on this, I think at high speed I need to have this fastened, it's not an issue off track.
The last clip secures the elec connector to the maf & it's cracked/broken, can you get these anywhere?
Thanks if you can help
Last edited by froggy47; 08-18-2011 at 12:37 AM.
#2
Throw away the pain in the *** shroud clip. Not needed.
To clean radiator lay it flat on a flat surface and tilt it up from the top or bottom a couple inches then let go. That will dislodge the majority of the debris.
To clean radiator lay it flat on a flat surface and tilt it up from the top or bottom a couple inches then let go. That will dislodge the majority of the debris.
#6
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Location: Shenandoah Valley Virginia
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Remove the airbridge and it's electrical connectors. Pull the top shroud off the radiator by removing the 4 bolts. Tilt the AC condensor forward and blow all the crap out with a spray nozzle like the one below. Order on line or at your local parts store - about $20. Then tilt the radiator forward, slide fans out of their mount and blow the radiator out. Reassemble. You will have about half a bucket full of junk to sweep up off the garage floor. Do it once a year.
http://www.buy.com/prod/mountain-mtn...212940104.html
http://www.buy.com/prod/mountain-mtn...212940104.html
#9
Race Director
Thread Starter
Remove the airbridge and it's electrical connectors. Pull the top shroud off the radiator by removing the 4 bolts. Tilt the AC condensor forward and blow all the crap out with a spray nozzle like the one below. Order on line or at your local parts store - about $20. Then tilt the radiator forward, slide fans out of their mount and blow the radiator out. Reassemble. You will have about half a bucket full of junk to sweep up off the garage floor. Do it once a year.
http://www.buy.com/prod/mountain-mtn...212940104.html
http://www.buy.com/prod/mountain-mtn...212940104.html
#12
Safety Car
Member Since: Nov 2000
Location: Shenandoah Valley Virginia
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The plastic fan housing just slides down into two metal hooks/brackets on the radiator bottom. Lift it up and then slide back. Got to move them back to adequately get to all areas of the radiator. Just working through fan openings will miss a lot of area.
#13
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Oct 1999
Location: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
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Bill
#14
Team Owner
I got hot temp warnings at a track day so here is what I found
You need to lift the a/c condensor off the coolant radiator to separate them & get some working space.
I am thinking cleaning this is good for a 10 deg or so drop in max temp which should keep the warning light on the dic off.
It was a 90 deg plus day & humid & shifty track so lots of high rpm.
The below pic is a fastener that I could not get back together, it holds the plastic shroud to an alum tab on the radiator on the other side (of the pic).
Need help if you guys figured out a work around on this, I think at high speed I need to have this fastened, it's not an issue off track.
The last clip secures the elec connector to the maf & it's cracked/broken, can you get these anywhere?
Thanks if you can help
You need to lift the a/c condensor off the coolant radiator to separate them & get some working space.
I am thinking cleaning this is good for a 10 deg or so drop in max temp which should keep the warning light on the dic off.
It was a 90 deg plus day & humid & shifty track so lots of high rpm.
The below pic is a fastener that I could not get back together, it holds the plastic shroud to an alum tab on the radiator on the other side (of the pic).
Need help if you guys figured out a work around on this, I think at high speed I need to have this fastened, it's not an issue off track.
The last clip secures the elec connector to the maf & it's cracked/broken, can you get these anywhere?
Thanks if you can help
I am going thru the same issue as you but I have a C6Z06 so I'm not sure how similar the setups are. I think its pretty similar with the ac condenser sitting in front of the radiator with a shroud over them. On the C6 if the shroud is not seated right air will pass by without going through the cooler. Not sure if this applies to your bottom breather.
Good luck. I am also going to run more water, less antifreeze and add some Water Wetter.
DH
#16
Race Director
I'm with trackboss....REMOVE it, then gently drop if forward so that the inertia carries much of the debris out. Compressed air or a water stream (from the rear) will work some, but inertia works best.
#17
Race Director
Thread Starter
Thanks all, how about that little clip, where to get?
I flogged it Sat/sun autox & no issues whatsoever temp wise.
Side bar: worn out a6's still stick pretty good (well enough to beat an Elise anyway).
I flogged it Sat/sun autox & no issues whatsoever temp wise.
Side bar: worn out a6's still stick pretty good (well enough to beat an Elise anyway).
#18
Pro
You might want to try Casper's Electronics:
http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/index.php
They seem to have a lot of automotive electrical connectors and harnesses.
http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/index.php
They seem to have a lot of automotive electrical connectors and harnesses.
#19
Race Director
Thread Starter
You might want to try Casper's Electronics:
http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/index.php
They seem to have a lot of automotive electrical connectors and harnesses.
http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/index.php
They seem to have a lot of automotive electrical connectors and harnesses.
I talked to their tech guy & he said it's a "secondary lock" for the connection & used during initial production to visually show that the connection is "made" but is unnecessary so long as the primary lock is holding.
Last edited by froggy47; 08-22-2011 at 05:23 PM.
#20
Team Owner
Remove the airbridge and it's electrical connectors. Pull the top shroud off the radiator by removing the 4 bolts. Tilt the AC condensor forward and blow all the crap out with a spray nozzle like the one below. Order on line or at your local parts store - about $20. Then tilt the radiator forward, slide fans out of their mount and blow the radiator out. Reassemble. You will have about half a bucket full of junk to sweep up off the garage floor. Do it once a year.
http://www.buy.com/prod/mountain-mtn...212940104.html
http://www.buy.com/prod/mountain-mtn...212940104.html
http://www.autotoolworld.com/Mountai...p_110072.html#
EDIT: HAHAHAAHA ..... shipping was more than the part but still came out to $17.81
DH
Last edited by Dirty Howie; 08-24-2011 at 11:30 PM.