'06 LS2, 26kmi, in the shop...
09-10-2011, 04:14 PM
#1
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'06 LS2, 26kmi, in the shop...
Started hearing a noise when the car was started cold. Sounded a bit like the 5.3l in my Tahoe that knocks... C6 needed to see the dealer because the HUD had fallen off its track, anyway, so off to the dealer it goes. They hold it overnight to check the cold start sound and I get the call... "probably a rod bearing or main bearing"... which kind of explains the <20psi at warm idle on the oil pressure, too, I guess. There was another sound they found, too, which they're initially calling the clutch release bearing.
Now we'll see if purchasing GMPP was worth it or not... apparently the warranty folks need to come out and hear the sounds, then okay the teardown, then look at the teardown findings, and only then decide if they'll actually cover it.
Car sees Thunderhill which has a long left hand T2 where I pull around 1.2G sustained on Toyo R888s... thankfully my engine is stock from the air filter to the mufflers, it's suspension, brakes and radiator that're upgraded.
Anyway, I just wanted to whine. That and the Tahoe has pulled up gimpy when I grabbed it with the C6 down. Having the Tahoe stall while you're still moving and lose power steering is a bit concerning... does it ever time the revs fall below about 800... left foot braking and keeping the revs up was "entertaining"...
How much are parts & labor for a dry sump conversion on the LS2?
Now we'll see if purchasing GMPP was worth it or not... apparently the warranty folks need to come out and hear the sounds, then okay the teardown, then look at the teardown findings, and only then decide if they'll actually cover it.
Car sees Thunderhill which has a long left hand T2 where I pull around 1.2G sustained on Toyo R888s... thankfully my engine is stock from the air filter to the mufflers, it's suspension, brakes and radiator that're upgraded.
Anyway, I just wanted to whine. That and the Tahoe has pulled up gimpy when I grabbed it with the C6 down. Having the Tahoe stall while you're still moving and lose power steering is a bit concerning... does it ever time the revs fall below about 800... left foot braking and keeping the revs up was "entertaining"...
How much are parts & labor for a dry sump conversion on the LS2?
09-10-2011, 05:12 PM
#2
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Okay, looks like Aviaid has a bunch of different models of dry sump and can retain the A/C. And ARE has a system, approved for T1 cars, that does not. The Aviaid pricing appears to have the parts cost between $2700-$3300 depending on the exact system (LS-C? LS-D?).
http://www.aviaid.com/pdfs/ls1and7_broch.pdf
http://drysump.com/ls1.htm
Who's got what and how's it working?
http://www.aviaid.com/pdfs/ls1and7_broch.pdf
http://drysump.com/ls1.htm
Who's got what and how's it working?
09-10-2011, 07:40 PM
#3
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Gary@ARE sent me some quotes on their dry sump configurations:
Hi Glen, Thank you for your inquiry. attached are 3 quotes. The 3 rd keeps the A/C but is not recommended for all out racing. Stage 1-3 we still use the internal pressure pump, and have a 3 stage scavenge. Stag 3 is all out like Am LeMans. gary
09-12-2011, 11:36 PM
#4
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No news from the dealer about my car, but Aviaid got back to me with some info:
Flyer
I've sent a reply asking about the "kit" to relocate the AC compressor, but if anybody here knows...
AC can be retained 2 ways. We build a 2 section scavenge only system that mounts the pump on the passenger cylinder head, retains the use of the stock internal pump for pressure, and the OEM AC.
An alternative would be the standard 3 stage pump mounted in place of the AC compressor and using a kit to remount a compressor off the cylinder head, and driving it with the primary serpentine belt. This uses an ATI damper for drive.
Take a look at LS - A and LS - C in the enclosed flyer.
An alternative would be the standard 3 stage pump mounted in place of the AC compressor and using a kit to remount a compressor off the cylinder head, and driving it with the primary serpentine belt. This uses an ATI damper for drive.
Take a look at LS - A and LS - C in the enclosed flyer.
I've sent a reply asking about the "kit" to relocate the AC compressor, but if anybody here knows...
09-13-2011, 12:44 PM
#6
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Dealership called this morning, still waiting for the GMPP inspectors to come listen to the sounds -- need that done before they can actually open the motor and figure out what's wrong...
Dry sump on a C6 seems the only solution. This car has 26Kmi and not that many of them were on track. Granted Thunderhill has a long, long high-G left hand turn but that was one of the many reasons I stuck with a 275/305 R888 configuration...
Still wish folks would chime in on the Aviaid vs ARE set ups and their experiences! Looks like everybody has a way to retain AC for the street/track cars these days...
Dry sump on a C6 seems the only solution. This car has 26Kmi and not that many of them were on track. Granted Thunderhill has a long, long high-G left hand turn but that was one of the many reasons I stuck with a 275/305 R888 configuration...
Still wish folks would chime in on the Aviaid vs ARE set ups and their experiences! Looks like everybody has a way to retain AC for the street/track cars these days...
09-13-2011, 08:27 PM
#7
I researched this a long time ago as I would like to dry sump my car and retain a/c. I never liked the cylinder head mount pump simply because of the drive system. What I found was there is a company that makes bracketry to mount a compressor away from the factory location that, according to my measurements, will fit in the corvette. That allows space to mount an oil pump and drive it direclty off the crank. I mentioned this to ARE a while back and he showed some interest. I don't want to make all the info public as I have not done this to my own car so I'm not 100% positive of every last detail. Not to mention ideas are easily stolen.
09-15-2011, 04:23 PM
#10
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09-26-2011, 04:41 PM
#11
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I should get the total list of damage, but it was scored this and burnt that and new oil pump and crankshaft and cam bearing and ... we'll see what it all really is tomorrow but the guy I'm dealing with is about 99% sure GMPP is going to just pay for a new motor. The parts list alone is significant without the labor cost to do it all.
And this definitely all sounds like oil starvation issues to me, and I have documented with data acquisition pressure drops on track (but never total loss!). And, again, the car runs on R888s so anybody pushing an LS2 really may want to stick with street tires unless you go dry sump.
And this definitely all sounds like oil starvation issues to me, and I have documented with data acquisition pressure drops on track (but never total loss!). And, again, the car runs on R888s so anybody pushing an LS2 really may want to stick with street tires unless you go dry sump.
10-05-2011, 12:15 PM
#13
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GMPP will *repair* the motor under warranty, with out of pocket being small things like new plug wires, etc. Warranty until my GMPP expires May '12.
GMPP will credit me towards a replacement crate motor, but that will cost me $2800 plus the misc little parts again. Warranty 3 years or 100Kmi.
GMPP will credit me towards a replacement crate motor, but that will cost me $2800 plus the misc little parts again. Warranty 3 years or 100Kmi.
10-05-2011, 12:25 PM
#14
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A prorated crate might look feasible on cost basis if you are planning on doing a lot of events and want to make more ugrades for longevity. Sometimes it just seems like 6 to one or half dozen to the other. 
10-05-2011, 12:48 PM
#15
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Yeah, part of the question is whether I believe the crate will be built better or in better shape in general versus one assembled by the dealership tech from the leftovers of the current motor. But I agree, it feels like 6of1, half dozen of the other... is a 3yr/100K warranty worth $2.8k?
10-05-2011, 02:31 PM
#16
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Yeah, part of the question is whether I believe the crate will be built better or in better shape in general versus one assembled by the dealership tech from the leftovers of the current motor. But I agree, it feels like 6of1, half dozen of the other... is a 3yr/100K warranty worth $2.8k?
10-05-2011, 02:47 PM
#17
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Nothing extra, just warranty until my GMPP expires May '12. I'm leaning towards paying extra for a crate motor. Curious if they'll drop in an LS3 (or LS7?) for me if I'm paying something out of pocket anyway... then before the car sees a track again I'll have to find a shop to do the drysump...
10-05-2011, 03:11 PM
#18
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Nothing extra, just warranty until my GMPP expires May '12. I'm leaning towards paying extra for a crate motor. Curious if they'll drop in an LS3 (or LS7?) for me if I'm paying something out of pocket anyway... then before the car sees a track again I'll have to find a shop to do the drysump...
especially if you plan on not buying another for 5yrs or so
10-05-2011, 04:05 PM
#19
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Taking this opportunity to do Pfadt motor mounts since they're out of the car... and the Tick remote clutch bleed line... wish I could find a lightweight flywheel for the stock clutch...
