jstout

Anyone have a source for roll on temporary paint protection for track day use. Thanks. Jerry

AtomicZ

A buddy of mine uses Road Warrior when he tracks his Viper. Seems to do the trick.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kUjqzqwWVSs

Bill Dearborn

I use a product called collision wrap. It is a 3 mil plastic with an adhesive on the back. It works great. Just roll onto the car from the roll, smooth it out like you would a clear bra, take a razor blade and cut out the door openings, use some green painters tape to keep the edges from catching the air and you are ready to go. 100 ft x 18 in roll costs about $50 depending on where you get it and doing 20 track days a year it lasts the year. It is easy to put on and take off. Take off is even easier if you strip it just after your last session of the event when the car is hot. It is also a lot tougher than the stuff you roll on like paint.

http://www.awdirect.com/collision-wr...ecialty-tools/

Bill

Madshadow

Hello,

My name is Mark Chase. I am the owner and artist at Madshadow Custom Paint and this is my YouTube video you have pointed to. I saw a sudden flood of hits to the video coming from here, so I had to check it out.

Road Warrior Plus is the product in question, and it will indeed protect you from damage at the track. I have sold many quarts to Vette owners for just this purpose. Two coats of RWP will give you about an 8 mil film thickness dried. We did ASTM gravelometer testing and started to see failures with 3/8" gravel at 65 mph (two coats applied).

My best friend developed and is marketing this product. It has taken off pretty good in Saudi Arabia, Indonesia and Australia. The US is a bit slow coming on board, but I suspect you will eventually see it in major auto parts stores, etc. He has given me all quart sales, as I helped him with spray samples, etc. during the development period.

Road Warrior Plus is available at www.madshadowcustompaint.com/rwp

My intent was not to make a sales pitch here, I just wanted to point out that in our experience RWP outperforms any temporary films in terms of cost per use, level of protection and ease of application. We have had nothing but positive feedback from customers and have had numerous repeat purchases.

I'm glad to see it being recommended here!

Thanks,
Mark
http://www.madshadowcustompaint.com


A ProMod glass body I painted for a friend of mine:

AtomicZ

Very cool. Thanks for the info. I will make sure to have a gallon on hand before next season.

Snuckley

I used to buy a liquid from a race car shop called "Snot" , you rolled it on the same way. Is it similar to the above product?

Gman57

Yep....

Madshadow

You could simply wash that product off with water. RWP will not come off in the rain, and can be washed as well without coming off. You have to physically grab an edge and peel it off to remove it (or spray with a high powered stream of water - pressure washer). RWP can be left on for hours or months and maintains all it's properties. I have found it especially useful for protection from handling damage (when I deliver newly painted / polished motorcycle parts).



RWP rolled on and curing (takes just a couple minutes in the sun)


Road Warrior Plus applied to entire bike


3000 miles later


Wet and grab an edge


Removed


Saddlebag lid



Mark
http://www.madshadowcustompaint.com/rwp

JoeDubya

I have ordered some. I autocross, and the sticky tires throw up lots of gravel.
The link above was slightly off, missing the ".htm" at the end. Try:

http://www.madshadowcustompaint.com/rwp.htm

Madshadow

Thanks Joe
Mark

KneeDragr

Bump, can anyone give a review on this roll on stuff? How far can you stretch 1 quart?

Madshadow

Hopefully Joe W can reply as he bought some and will be unbiased.

I can tell you that when I apply it to my Harley bagger - 2 coats, full fairing, lowers, leading edges of tank, saddlebag lids and fronts - I can do this 15 times easily with 1 quart. When I took this product to Sturgis last year I got 50+ applications as described above with one quart. I was not cleaning up after every round though, so this is not representative of real world coverage.

We conservatively state that you get 250 sq ft per gallon. I'm confident saying you will get at least a half dozen applications to the front end and leading edges of an automobile per quart.

Mark
madshadowcustompaint.com/rwp.htm

KneeDragr

Oh, I forgot to ask - why cant you put it on the headlights?

Madshadow

You could put it on headlights - wouldn't hurt anything. It would likely dim their output though. I try not to go overboard with it, as it get's more difficult to remove it all. However, if you are removing it with a pressure washer of some sort that is not an issue.

Also, it doesn't adhere well to chrome and glass if driven in the rain.

Mark

longdaddy

out of curiosity, i tried it and i am having really hard time removing some of it off the paint after it got rained on, it partially came off, and then dried. there are small pieces left all over and I think I am going to need to clay bar the whole area.

i tried getting it wet then scrubbing, pressure washing, various cleaners etc. the only thing that works is picking at each piece with a fingernail. there are many still on so the only thing I can think of at this point is clay bar or fine rubbing compound.

Madshadow

I'm sorry for your experience. It sounds to me like it did not cure adequately.

If it is not applied in a warm or sunny area it must be cured with a hair dryer or heat gun (this only takes a few minutes) before exposure to rain. I have applied this hundreds of times and have only seen what you are describing on two occasions.

The first time I did not get it cured and got it in the rain, which sounds just like what you are describing. If it is cured adequately the rain will not affect it. (You might have been able to put some more on over this, cured it and then had it all come off when you pulled it).

The other occasion was when I was demoing it in Sturgis last year. It was late and dark, yet someone wanted to see another demo. I ran out of material and ran my roller dry on the fairing of my Harley. I told them to come back the next morning and didn't think anything of it. The next morning I had hundreds of small spots on the fairing (imagine running a paint roller dry on a wall) It took me over an hour to get them off, picking at them individually, or scrubbing with water and a microfiber cloth (which I ALWAYS recommend using on paint!). There was no damage to my paint, but it was a bear to remove it all (and it didn't make for a very impressive display to the folks who were watching me!).

If RWP gets wet shortly after it's applied (less than a day) it will sometimes turn a milky white, but turns clear again as soon as it dries out. After it's been on for a little while this doesn't happen. If it has not cured and gets wet it does the same thing, but will rinse off.

While demoing in Sturgis it was very warm out: 90-100 degrees. The product was drying in less than a minute (not the best application conditions for getting the smoothest appearance from the product). One afternoon a huge thundershower hit virtually without warning, soaking the coating I had just put on my bike minutes ago. It turned milky as described, but came off without a hitch, because it had cured.

I always recommend putting on two wet coats of RWP, and always giving yourself a wet, solid edge. When applied like this and cured correctly I have never had a problem removing it.

It sounds like this was the only time you have used it. If so I'm guessing you have more left. I would encourage you to give it another chance. With one exception (not including your experience) I have had 100% positive feedback with this product. The one exception was a woman in Seattle who had the exact same thing happen, and it was because she did not cure it and took it out in the rain.

Many of the customers I've had are Corvette owners, and many of them have made repeat purchases.

People have tried to use this product for many things... masking for powdercoating, keeping the algae off the waterline of their boats while moored, etc. We have not tested out every scenario and are always looking for feedback. But we have many thousands of experiences with car owners and are very confident that if used correctly you will not have any problems. It may not stop a fender from getting dented if you're hit by a blown tire on the track or a stone on the highway, but it is an excellent first line of defense for many common automotive paint hazards.

Again, I'm sorry for your experience and hope you will test it out again. Sometimes the biggest initial critics become the strongest advocates.

longdaddy

i did 3 coats and dried each one with a heat gun when i put it on, before the car was out of the garage, the only thing I can think of is that the car was parked in below freezing temp for 1 night before I tried taking it off (it was warm when I first tried to pressure wash it off)

dreamscometrue

Sounds like you recommend two coats. Do you apply one coat and let it dry completely, then apply a second coat?

Anyone with any experience with this at the track?

Madshadow

We've been pm'ing offline...

Seattle (my home town) is a tough market. It's cold and damp for half the year over there. This year colder than most. The underside of the wing on a Viper could also be a suspect place to test the product. I'm not suggesting your paint is flawed, but raising the issue for everyone's benefit. This product works best over a clean, waxed finish. The manufacturers only suggestion with your problem was that it was applied over oxidized paint (which I highly doubt you have on an '09 Viper), or not cured adequately.
Again, wet coats work best, and the metal temp must come up to 120 for the adhesive to cross over and bind. This is normally accomplished easily in the direct sunlight on a 70+ degree day.

You generally don't want to apply this under 68 degrees unless you are able to dry it with a heat gun or blow dryer. Even then, if it is very chilly out (you stated it was freezing) it might take a bit longer to manually cure the product.

I wanted to share with whoever is reading this that you found an easier way to remove the residual product:

Quote:

finally found something that works reasonably well to remove the remaining material - rubbing with the edge of black teflon card (the kind used to install vinyl wrap or tint film) while lubricating with soapy water.

clay bar does not work well to get the stuff off, but you may want to let customers know about the teflon card if they are having issues similar to mine.

@dreamscometrue - yes, 2 wet coats, curing completely between coats. There must be some track experience with this here as I know at least a few of you have purchased some!

Thanks,

Mark

thatonedude1

Just ordered a quart and will try this out for my next track weekend @ Homestead 3/10,11. I'll provide feedback