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I like my car much better on the street with them, lubed well, than I ever did on rubber bushings. The ride is stiffer from the coilovers, bushings, etc but my wife and I like it better as more controlled, less excess motion, she used to get a bit sea sick if I pushed it a bit hard, now far less.
Driving experience is just plain better in every way. The stock suspension, bushings, shocks springs, sways, even when I installed Bilstiens, better springs, bigger sways, wider wheels, better tires, I still did not like it much, poor feedback and not a great ride. Now with Phadt street coilovers, sways, bushings, and DRM steering rack bushing and a very well dialed in alignment, not like driving the same car.
It rides better, handles better, stops better, far better feedback, the only issue is now the car is so confidence inspiring it is to fast for public roads, being on the edge is fun, on the edge in my car is so far out there I can only do it on a track now without being an idiot on the street. And, I cannot go to the track until I build a roll bar, a proper one for my vert.
The car responds exceptionally well to a few good suspension mods, the bushings were one of the best.
Rick
Wow! I'm about to install PFADT coils and PFADT bushings and I can't wait. Did you do all those mods at once or in increments. The reason I ask is that the DRM Steering Rack bushing is relatively inexpensive but I have also heard that people don't really notice any difference. Did you find it an improvement or was it install with all the other parts? Thanks
I thought the Pfadt instructions say to mount them dry? You are only supposed to lube where the inner pins go?
And just to be clear about the cradle grinding (I had to do this) - it is just the outer sections that get ground (to widen the entry area into the area where the arm ultimately mounts) -- not the area that the bushings touch once fastened.
I'm doing an install of the poly bushings from LG and they will not fit as described above. Do you have any pictures of where you did the grinding?
Thanks
Last edited by 82 ENGR; 07-19-2015 at 07:38 PM.
Reason: Grammer
I am replacing my bushings with a prothane kit. The problem I am running into and it's very frustrating is the kit I purchased did not come with the steel bushing sleeves. I was under the impression that I could reuse the stock sleeves but i do not see how I can do this being the rubber is bonded too the sleeve. I cannot find where to purchase the sleeves! Can someone point me in the right direction or have any tips? I am pulling my hair out!
I am replacing my bushings with a prothane kit. The problem I am running into and it's very frustrating is the kit I purchased did not come with the steel bushing sleeves. I was under the impression that I could reuse the stock sleeves but i do not see how I can do this being the rubber is bonded too the sleeve. I cannot find where to purchase the sleeves! Can someone point me in the right direction or have any tips? I am pulling my hair out!
Thanks,
Jake
if the OD is ok then burn the rubber off (Nasty job)
I am replacing my bushings with a prothane kit. The problem I am running into and it's very frustrating is the kit I purchased did not come with the steel bushing sleeves. I was under the impression that I could reuse the stock sleeves but i do not see how I can do this being the rubber is bonded too the sleeve. I cannot find where to purchase the sleeves! Can someone point me in the right direction or have any tips? I am pulling my hair out!
Thanks,
Jake
I pressed the stock bushings and sleeves out of the control arms, then took the sleeves over to the vice and used a hack saw to cut most of the rubber off. With 90% of it gone I used a knife to get to about 95% then a wire wheel to get to 100%. The process is not fun but I did not want to shell out the $$$ for aftermarket sleeves. Though it is a tough process and hated the job, but realized it was worth every second after the first drive.
I pressed the stock bushings and sleeves out of the control arms, then took the sleeves over to the vice and used a hack saw to cut most of the rubber off. With 90% of it gone I used a knife to get to about 95% then a wire wheel to get to 100%. The process is not fun but I did not want to shell out the $$$ for aftermarket sleeves. Though it is a tough process and hated the job, but realized it was worth every second after the first drive.
Ok update as there apparently are no newer posts on this subject and I'm not going to start one: the AutoZone tools don't exist anymore. What worked for me so far is the ridetech tool 85000006. It doesn't seem perfect but it actually works to press out the humungous lower front arm bushing, with the metal washer plates still on it. Just need a big Vise, and a flat socket to get it started as Vise wasn't that wide. And it works for the other bushings too. Definitely recommend spending $50 than having to deal with the mcgyver solutions out there.
Speaking of ridetech, I recommend you get the Delrin. Removing the control arms takes so much time why not invest in the best solution - the actual bushing replacement was very easy. Taking out the lower control arm is another story. Which BTW WHERE TF are the instructions for that? The only I saw was on some Z06 forum, with minimalist info.
So back to the lower front massive CA: off the rack ball joint separator doesn't fit, too small. Spend hundreds on GM tool? I don't think so. Luckily one of those bottle opener type clamping tools worked, just make sure wheel is pointing straight so you position foe good grip on both sides. And having to support the spring and CA with Jack's or stands separately is another PITA for things to align like the shock bolts.
Ok update as there apparently are no newer posts on this subject and I'm not going to start one: the AutoZone tools don't exist anymore. What worked for me so far is the ridetech tool 85000006. It doesn't seem perfect but it actually works to press out the humungous lower front arm bushing, with the metal washer plates still on it. Just need a big Vise, and a flat socket to get it started as Vise wasn't that wide. And it works for the other bushings too. Definitely recommend spending $50 than having to deal with the mcgyver solutions out there.
Speaking of ridetech, I recommend you get the Delrin. Removing the control arms takes so much time why not invest in the best solution - the actual bushing replacement was very easy. Taking out the lower control arm is another story. Which BTW WHERE TF are the instructions for that? The only I saw was on some Z06 forum, with minimalist info.
So back to the lower front massive CA: off the rack ball joint separator doesn't fit, too small. Spend hundreds on GM tool? I don't think so. Luckily one of those bottle opener type clamping tools worked, just make sure wheel is pointing straight so you position foe good grip on both sides. And having to support the spring and CA with Jack's or stands separately is another PITA for things to align like the shock bolts.
12-06-2011, 12:52 PM
