Retain or Remove the Lower Air Dam with a Splitter?
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Retain or Remove the Lower Air Dam with a Splitter?
With all the current threads on areo and with just adding a rear wing on my car the questions coming up for me are.......
* Will the APR front air dam (like the ZR1 design or Ktech) be enough or do I add to it by making a custom splitter?
*Attach it under the APR air dam and extend it out 2" creating a air splitter and full undertray. By doing this I would be removing the OE rubber flapper/air dam. I have looked over several older threads with conflicting pros/cons removing the OE air dam.
*What would be the best way to reroute the brake ducting? Would I still get enough air to the brakes if I cut out the opening in the new under tray at the factory location with out the OE rubber air dam?
Thanks for your input
* Will the APR front air dam (like the ZR1 design or Ktech) be enough or do I add to it by making a custom splitter?
*Attach it under the APR air dam and extend it out 2" creating a air splitter and full undertray. By doing this I would be removing the OE rubber flapper/air dam. I have looked over several older threads with conflicting pros/cons removing the OE air dam.
*What would be the best way to reroute the brake ducting? Would I still get enough air to the brakes if I cut out the opening in the new under tray at the factory location with out the OE rubber air dam?
Thanks for your input
Last edited by Gman57; 12-29-2011 at 10:30 PM.
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#5
Drifting
With the Katech ZR-1 splitter, you can get the brake ducts that connect from the OEM ducts to the front openings on the splitter. This provides significantly more air flow to the rotors (assuming you also have a Quantum Cooling kit or equivalent). My rotor temps dropped substantially when I added the Katech splitter.
Is the splitter enough to balance a rear wing. Gee, I doubt it! I believe it was designed and tested to work with the Katech full spoiler, not a wing.
In addition to balance, you also are going to have to figure out reinforcements that are well in excess of the ZR-1 fiberglass reinforcement. There's a thread somewhere that discusses this. The problem is that in hot temps, the entire fascia can be deformed downward.
Should be a fun project!
Jim
Is the splitter enough to balance a rear wing. Gee, I doubt it! I believe it was designed and tested to work with the Katech full spoiler, not a wing.
In addition to balance, you also are going to have to figure out reinforcements that are well in excess of the ZR-1 fiberglass reinforcement. There's a thread somewhere that discusses this. The problem is that in hot temps, the entire fascia can be deformed downward.
Should be a fun project!
Jim
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
With the Katech ZR-1 splitter, you can get the brake ducts that connect from the OEM ducts to the front openings on the splitter. This provides significantly more air flow to the rotors (assuming you also have a Quantum Cooling kit or equivalent). My rotor temps dropped substantially when I added the Katech splitter.
Is the splitter enough to balance a rear wing. Gee, I doubt it! I believe it was designed and tested to work with the Katech full spoiler, not a wing.
In addition to balance, you also are going to have to figure out reinforcements that are well in excess of the ZR-1 fiberglass reinforcement. There's a thread somewhere that discusses this. The problem is that in hot temps, the entire fascia can be deformed downward.
Should be a fun project!
Jim
Is the splitter enough to balance a rear wing. Gee, I doubt it! I believe it was designed and tested to work with the Katech full spoiler, not a wing.
In addition to balance, you also are going to have to figure out reinforcements that are well in excess of the ZR-1 fiberglass reinforcement. There's a thread somewhere that discusses this. The problem is that in hot temps, the entire fascia can be deformed downward.
Should be a fun project!
Jim
I will have a much more support from the front other than the fascia it self.
#7
Le Mans Master
The C6Z air dam is to provide a little air to the brake ducts in stock form. It also adds a lot of front end lift. Take it off and throw it away but you must get more air to the brakes. The Katech unit is what I have with the undertray and brake ducts. You also need back plates to run the hoses to the inside of the rotors.
If you move the Katech undertray forward 2" you will get a ton more front down force but the front facia support is not enough to to keep the front of the car up. You are going to have to add additional supports to the frame.
Aero balancing a car is not easy. Best of luck to you.
Jim
If you move the Katech undertray forward 2" you will get a ton more front down force but the front facia support is not enough to to keep the front of the car up. You are going to have to add additional supports to the frame.
Aero balancing a car is not easy. Best of luck to you.
Jim
#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
The C6Z air dam is to provide a little air to the brake ducts in stock form. It also adds a lot of front end lift. Take it off and throw it away but you must get more air to the brakes. The Katech unit is what I have with the undertray and brake ducts. You also need back plates to run the hoses to the inside of the rotors.
If you move the Katech undertray forward 2" you will get a ton more front down force but the front facia support is not enough to to keep the front of the car up. You are going to have to add additional supports to the frame.
Aero balancing a car is not easy. Best of luck to you.
Jim
If you move the Katech undertray forward 2" you will get a ton more front down force but the front facia support is not enough to to keep the front of the car up. You are going to have to add additional supports to the frame.
Aero balancing a car is not easy. Best of luck to you.
Jim
Option 2 would be to go the fog light route for ducting.
I think if I can get the front aero close I should be able to adjust the rear with AOA of the wing.
Anyone use 1/8" aluminum to fab the undertray? About $600 less than CF. A bit more weight would be the trade off.
#9
Le Mans Master
This is along the line of what I wanted to do. I need to find out if the Ktech ducting will work for me since my splitter/air dam is the APR and not the Ktech splitter.
Option 2 would be to go the fog light route for ducting.
I think if I can get the front aero close I should be able to adjust the rear with AOA of the wing.
Anyone use 1/8" aluminum to fab the undertray? About $600 less than CF. A bit more weight would be the trade off.
Option 2 would be to go the fog light route for ducting.
I think if I can get the front aero close I should be able to adjust the rear with AOA of the wing.
Anyone use 1/8" aluminum to fab the undertray? About $600 less than CF. A bit more weight would be the trade off.
#10
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Try Alumalite. Stiffer than a 10th grader's unit after looking through Hustler magazine and very light. Cheap, too.
#11
Le Mans Master
#12
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#14
Le Mans Master
I (and I suspect most who have this type undertray) are using the 10mm size.
Some splitters you get will have a lip wide enough to cover the exposed edge of the undertray. In other words, the undertray will be cut to fit into the splitter.
If it doesn't completely cover it, you can use any silicone sealant to dress up the edges. That would be for cosmetic purposes only, the Alumalite will not separate.
Some splitters you get will have a lip wide enough to cover the exposed edge of the undertray. In other words, the undertray will be cut to fit into the splitter.
If it doesn't completely cover it, you can use any silicone sealant to dress up the edges. That would be for cosmetic purposes only, the Alumalite will not separate.
#16
Burning Brakes