travisnd

Anyone ever have the lower balljoints so tight that even the proper Kent Moore tool won't pop them? I've used the tool w/o issue in the rear, but this is my first time using it on the front lowers. Prior to getting the correct tool I used to use a 2-arm pulley puller that was a big PITA or just said fug it and used my pickle fork.

The threads on the Kent Moore tool are now messed up from over-torqing it and I'll have to run a die over the bolt.

I'm guessing racing the car on A6s puts so much force through the suspension that the lower balljoint gets pushed in something fierce. I know some of you say you just smack the LCA using a wood block and a hammer, but I've never ever had that work.

I've also seen the old wrench trick where you nail the spindle with a hammer and the vibrations pop the joint loose, but I don't feel good doing that on an aluminum piece.

Pisses me off that even using the fancy OEM tool I'm having to bust out the pickle fork and screw up my boots. Good thing I bought a few sets of those Energy Suspension boots last year!

Anyone experience this or something similar?

wallyman424

heat up the spindle a little with a mapp torch. Bet it pops after that.

sperkins

I've never had any trouble just smacking the nut with a big hammer.
Did you get it loose yet?

dfinke23

I've had that exact problem. A standard pitman arm puller works perfect.
The Kent Moore tool isn't a great design, but it helps to use a lot of grease on the threads.
Like I said, the Pitman is the way to go.

frankgtb

try a heavy brass hammer if you dont want to mark up the aluminum spindle....

Falcon

Hammer on the side of the LCA usually gets mine loose. I've used the 2 arm gear puller with great success, too.

BTW, got the packages yesterday, thanks!

dvandentop

pitman arm puller ftw!

had a hell of a time when i did my poly bushings til i got this

travisnd

I ended up unbolting the lower end of the shock and tried again and got it to pop loose. Guess I'll look into a pitman arm puller.

1. Any particular brand type fit our cars?

2. What do you do to prevent messing up the top of the balljoint shaft?

3. Anyone put a little anti-seize on the balljoint shaft?

Thanks!

victorf

Might be helpful suggestions:

Use babbit hammer if you must use a hammer, it is softer than aluminum and it acts like a dead blow, it will not bounce. Aluminum is low on the food chain in terms of hardness.

The right combination of hammering on the nut and LCA while tensioning the ball joint works wonders. If you were to use Pitman Arm Puller, tap on the top of the puller under tension will break the taper.

Kent Moore is a well designed tool, but in terms of mechanical advantage, I favor the inline from the Pitman Puller.

fatbillybob

put the nut 2 threads on the spindle then the puller can't damage the treads

C5ZEE06

same problem here..wrote-off a perfectly good KM tool.
next time I think ill try jacking / supporting the spindle / hub and upper arm up assembly up from full droop before i start banging on it and see if that helps.

travisnd

Good call... I forgot to do that (jack up on the spindle to use the spring's force).

KY-Traveler

Had this happen yesterday. Tapped on the top of the spindle with a 4 lb. hammer and it popped out. KM tool was in place when I tapped on it.

travisnd

On the top of the spindle or on the top of the balljoint shaft?

KY-Traveler

On top of the ball joint shaft where the KM attached. Actually tapped on the KM tool. Didn't take much to pop it out.

travisnd

10-4 that's what I figured you meant. I'm going to take the KM tool to a local machine shop and have them clean up the threads. From now on I'll mak sure I remember to put a jack on the spindle to help the spring push down on the LCA more.

dvandentop

pitman arm tool is only like $20

dfinke23

Yes on the anti seize, and the top of the of the shaft has a recessed area, the drive bolt tip pushes against that; the arms hook under the spindle base and don't leave a mark.