bags142

So during my poly bushing install I was having problems getting the rear lower control arm bushings in. Using a vise was useless. Using a press was difficult. I read a few people cutting them in half...

A co-worker suggested using a threaded rod and a few nuts and assorted washers.

3/4 inch rod from homedepot
3 nuts
assorted washers

and it worked like a champ. Slide right all. All 3 bushings in 10 min.

froggy47

That is very similar to what I used on fronts.

Since then I have been "educated" by some of the top guys on this forum, that if the poly's go in THAT HARD you really should open the hole in the arm or shave the bushing down for an easier fit.

If it's jammed in too tight, the poly distorts & can bind, last thing you want suspension to do.



There are some threads that discuss this. The GM tolerances on the arms vary some, since when they put rubber in a few thou difference does not matter.

travisnd

Yep... those are the ones that took forever to do on my buddy's press. They had to be lined up just right to get them started. Nice solution.

bags142

I saw that and I did have to shave down the front bushings, I thought the rears should not be shaved?

Thanks. I was at work using a 20 tom press cussing and trying not to have a poly bushing become a projectile when my co-worker suggested it. A good and simple solution.

And cheap too! $10 in parts from homedepot!

davidfarmer

which bushings are these? I never had any problem with the VBP bushings.

Jason

Simple. Cheap. Effective.
No wonder it's not in any manual.

sperkins

Looks like the Pfadt kit.
I've never had an issue using my crappy Harbor Freight press. The bushing does try to squirm around and pop out, but I've found that it's best to go as fast as possible. Just getting it started is the hardest part. Once it is started, it'll push right in.

travisnd

Look to be the Pfadts. The one piece bushings can be a bear to get started because you're forcing the outer lip through the ID of the control arm.

Yep... hard to get the bushing lip started into the arm w/o it wanting to move around. I'm sure the stability of the press, the press fixture and whatever you're using to support the control arm play a big role in how this goes. My buddy's was the el cheapo harbor freight and it was a bit wobbly... lots of trial and error

froggy47

It depends on the fit. Think about it. The small part of the bushing the remains outside of the arm hole is going to contact the mounting "slot" (technical term) It needs to move but not be loose as suspension travels, right?

See how hard/easy it is to install. If it goes in ok by hand then you are probably fine.

If you have to cram it in/ pry it in/ force it in then you are likely going to have bind.

Make sense?

Lube with some good sticky lube that won't run/wash off.

Pfadt Racing

Nice work with the tools at your disposal! Those locations can be a little tricky sometimes. So long as the bushing is flush in the control arm you should be good to go without worries of binding.

bags142

Pfadt


agreed


Yep. I was to chicken **** to go fast lol.. so it kept squirming. This way no squirm!

bags142

ok.. the bushing shall not move in the arm, but pivot on the bolt. If it is to loose, then it can move in the arm. And the "ears" on the rears (read it 4 times and it still don't seem right!) were the hardest part to get through.

Were you talking about shaving the ears down? Or opening the control arm up?

And I have that dang lube on everything. I will be throwing away a shirt and pants shortly...lol..I also added zerk fittings and got a tube from summit for the grase gun!


There is a small gap, less than an 1/8 of an inch, between the bushing ears and the control arm. I don't have a feeler gauge at the house, so I did not measure it. But, from kentucky windage, it looked ok

sperkins

I firmly believe that stuff is made by Satan himself. I can't stand it. I still find it stuck to tools and misc places in the shop and the last bushing job I did was about 2 months ago.
WD-40 will clean it right up though.

drivinhard

froggy47

I don't think the small gap you describe is going to hurt anything, but it could be a result of "cramming the poly into the arm".

How is the fit of the outside of the bushing to the slot it slips into? Tight/loose/just right?

bags142

Well.. the ones that had the 2 metal ears in the, required some force to get in.

The would move by hand after I installed them, but the required some force. Not my body weight, but I would guess 20 lbs

froggy47

bags142

And sorry for the spelling.. posting from the phone sucks..

So as long as they can move by hand, even with moderate force, they should be ok and not bind?

And thanks for the assistance

froggy47

That's my opinion & how mine are set up.

I more or less "hand fit" them.

dvandentop

used my harbor freight 12 ton press for both vbp and a set of pfadt, just gotta rig up some contraptions with sockets or something to get the one weird angled lca on the rear to go in