Paul Schmidt

Hello guys, I had a test and tune track day on Saturday. I just rebuilt my engine and this was the second track day on the motor. The car ran fine all day. This was my third session of the day and I've had six sessions total on this motor. Maybe it was me and something I did on my build or is it the sweeping left hand turn? Any insight would be helpful. I wasn't even going that fast.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OL5Kg...38AUAAAAAAAAAA

BLOWNALKY01

Boy that's a shame, it sounded really good until the rods decided to form there own death-metal band. Hope it's not as bad as it sounds. Deffinately rod knock.

Jack.

Wicked Weasel

it was nice watching you drive until 10 mins into it.

Maybe a broken spring.

can you explain what happened more than what the video sounds like? Any codes?

Paul Schmidt

No codes, not one. The car doesn't seem to hold any oil pressure too. I was just into my driving. The temps for the day were a high of 43. So I was just really watching my driving. I feel like a dumb *** for not paying attention to the oil pressure and the more I watch the video.... The more I hear the sounds earlier into it. I was really having a lot of fun and I got caught up into it. The car felt great.

BLOWNALKY01

Yeah I could hear it earlier too. Can't condemn you though as you were in the moment and wearing a helmet.

Black89Z51

Sorry to hear about your car man. Hopefully you can get this fixed with minimal cost and get back out.

First thing I think you should do would be pull off the valve covers and oil pan and see what you're working with. Are you running an accusump by chance?

Wicked Weasel

I heard something earlier in the video, but its not always easy when you are driving along enjoying the day.

I am now changing answer to lifter or spun bearing.

maybe caused by failed oil pump?

travisnd

Basics on the motor build?

What oil pump?

Oil cooler?

What oil?

Accusump?

Tires?

Paul Schmidt

ARP hardware, Katech rod bolts and timing chain.

Stock oil pump. I know not good.

No oil cooler.

Getting an Accusump on this next build.

Kumho V710's

I have just now finished all the safety to the car. That's where my money has been focused on. That's why The car is running stock.

travisnd

A local buddy just did a LS1 rebuild for a road race e36 BMW and spun the rod bearings on the dyno. For some reason the ARP rod bolts were't right. He re-re-built with the Katch's and has had no issues since.... I know you say you already used Katech rod bolts, but it jogged my memory.

When you dig into it again go with a LS4 high volume pump. It's cheaper than a ported LS6 or a melling and does the same thing as the melling.

Paul Schmidt

Forgot to mention Joe Gibbs XP3

Paul Schmidt

Hey guys I'm back and ready to start this build before the racing season gets really going. I am looking for a dry sump systems right now and will be getting a system next week. Being a struggling club racer price is a factor, I will hold out longer for more funds so not to cut any corners if I have too. I have my eye on this system that is for sale. It's for Chevy small block and I don't think the pan will work for the LS1. I could be wrong. Here's some pictures. Will this work and how good is it. I know there is more too it, such as a new crank.

Dailey / Coleman dry sump complete oil system for your small block Chevy. The oil pump is a Dailey three (3) stage pump with small block Chevy mounts. Has a Hamburger’s Aluminum oil pan for two piece rear main oil seal. The Coleman oil tank is a three gallon Coleman tank with a Moroso Aluminum Breather vent tank. Has an aluminum full size Oil Cooler also, stainless steel braided lines with re-usable fittings and filters

(1) Dailey Dry Sump 3 STAGE OIL Pump Standard Size P/N 02-99-1031 with Two (2) 1.375” Scavenge Sections and 1.000” Pressure Housing Section. Dailey Dry Sump Pump has two (2) AN12 scavenge inlets and one (1) AN12 pressure inlet with one (1) AN16 scavenge outlet and one (1) AN12 pressure outlet to the motor oiling system. Has two (2) Pumps supports mounts one is New & one is used are for small block Chevy motor also, has a like new Gilmer type billet aluminum pulley CV P/N SCP 1104-32, 32 Teeth Pulley has an outside dia. of 3.790" X 1.062 wide and has a pump shaft ID of .625" with a 3/16" keyway. See photo #5



Dailey Dry Sump superior pump design with an aluminum housings and rotor combination all made from 7075 T6511 billet aluminum maintain a constant internal clearance over the entire operating temperature range. With two-lobe Roots Style design provides up to 50% more volumetric capacity, greater hydrodynamic sealing, and maximum crankcase vacuum than other dry sump oil pumps on the market. This used Dailey Dry Sump is in Great condition.

http://www.daileyengineering.com/oil_pumps.htm

(2) The Hamburger’s Dry Sump Aluminum Oval Track Oil Pan P/N 930625 is right at 5" deep. It has two side AN12 male pickups, one pickup for the front of the pan and one pickup for the back of the pan. The only thing it is missing is the three bottom access plugs that you can pick up direct from Hamburger’s or others. The Hamburger’s Dry Sump Aluminum oil pan is in Great condition.

(3) The Coleman 3 gallon Aluminum Oil Tank with billet aluminum top plate with an AN8 vent tube fitting for breather return to insure proper ventilation and a smaller AN fitting. The Coleman oil tank has a 3/4" N.P.T. with an AN16 fitting oil return and the oil supply bung with an AN12 fitting. They feature 2 aeration baffles that separate any air from the oil. The oil tank measures 15” tall X 10 1/2” diameter top and the body is all most 9” dia. The oil tank comes complete with a mounting bracket, breather and hoses all in very good condition.

(4) Moroso Aluminum Dry Sump Breather Tank, 1 qt., Round, 11.50 in. Length, 3.125 in. Diameter, with, 3/8” NPT Female Inlet with an AN8 fitting. Comes complete with mounting bracket that clamps to the cars tubing rail and clamps for mounting bracket. Breather Tank is in very good condition.

(5) Aluminum Full Size 44 Row Oil Cooler Dual Pass with Two (2) AN-12 Threaded Male Fittings, Oil Cooler Measures - 25 1/4" wide X 18" tall X 1.5" thick the Oil Cooler is slightly warped but, was tested in Very Good Condition.

(6) Peterson 400 Series oil filter with AN16 male fittings in Very Good Condition, for return oil to oil tank and a New Peterson extra filter element 100 micron for Peterson oil filter.

(7) Two (2) New Moroso oil filters with AN12 male fittings for scavenge inlets lines to oil Pump and two New Moroso extra Screen filters for Moroso oil filters.

(8) Eight (8)-12AN stainless steel braided lines with re-usable fittings in Very Good Condition.

(9) One (1)-12AN braided line and heat shielding with re-usable fittings in Very Good Condition, for oil pressure line to motor. (Not shown in Photo)

(10) Two (2)-16AN stainless steel braided lines with re-usable fittings with end caps in Very Good Condition, for return oil to oil tank thru Peterson oil filter.

(11) Two (2) one new and one used aluminum 12AN male x 12AN male fittings.

(12) One (1) new aluminum 12AN male 90 deg. Elbow x 1/8” NPT

(13) One (1) 8AN stainless steel braided line and heat shielding with re-usable fittings in Very Good Condition for breather vent tank.







I'm going to use this thread to ask questions and to get help on this build. I get a lot of compliments on my race car. I feel bad for taking credit, because I copied what you guys do.

Any info on making the right purchase choice is a huge help guys.

Thanks a lot

trackboss

pump and pan will not work on an ls motor.

Paul Schmidt

I have been doing a lot of research and I'm starting off with the tank and it's install. The motor is getting removed and sent to Nutter Racing to be rebuilt and set up for dry sump.

The tank I'm leaning towards is the ARE 7030 3 gallon tank. Am I right by thinking that is the best tank? Also what is the best way to remove the battery tray bracket that is attached to the frame?



Thanks guys.

ErnieN85

Die grinder is probably the easiest

Paul Schmidt

Ok... Enough with the BS on trying to see if this or that will works. So I go to the threads on here for dry sump installs. I found the best to be the Dailey pan with the integral scavenge lines. I shopped and found this one used. It will be here next week. I am working with Bill at Dailey. He is working on getting all the pieces together and will wrap up the order tomorrow. Wow sticker shock on the price of the pump. I did get a great deal on the pan. It will be here next Tuesday.

Here's a picture of the pan I bought.



I'm working with my engine builder on the motor mount that needs to be machined. I'm going to do some thing like this. These are pictures from JVettehead.






I'm going with the ARE 7030 3 gallon tank.



The parts are being ordered and the motor is out. Not as fast as I would like, but it's getting done.


Any kind of input on things to be aware of would be helpful.



Thanks guys.

Paul Schmidt

Parts are rolling in, so I feel like some progress is being made. I already missed the first race and I'm not pacing to make the second. Geez can a staving club racer get a break?

Here are some pics of the parts that came in. Next move is to get the motor to the engine builder.

trackboss

where did you find the used dailey parts?

Paul Schmidt

I bought the pan from this thread. It got locked before he could reply, so I sent him an e-mail.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-p...-for-sale.html

There are big differences in the two pans with the round and square oil passages. The ones that work on our motors is the pan with the square passages. The belt will be behind the ATI super damper. The pan with the round passages used the pump that the belt goes in front of the ATI which is prevented from doing so, because of the steering rack.

I bought the pump brand new. I didn't want to risk getting a bad one.

Bink

Will the square passage pan fit a C5 with leafsprings (i.e. without coilovers) and what needs to be done to the block for external pump??


joel