froggy47

Here is a video of how far I got.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jHofExssBMo

If you have done this please post a detailed picture/diagram/video/measurement whatever that shows it working.

My attempt/measurements/eyeballing say it does not work.

Maybe on some c4 or c6 it worked for somebody, be we are talking c5z.

I hope I'm wrong, but it just does not look like there is anywhere it works.

I heard, I think, I know a guy, whatever does not count.

Please post facts only, don't clutter the thread with forum fantasy just because you feel like posting.

naschmitz

I just looked at the SolidWorks drawings I have of the C5/C6 knuckle and hub assembly. The hole in the knuckle is smaller than the hub, so if there was a way to drill through the back you are definitely going to be drilling through the knuckle.

The hub itself has a triangular mounting piece that you would also have to avoid if you could drill through the backing plate.

I am pretty sure you have to pull the hub to change the studs.

This picture from the GM Parts ordering (2004 C5Z) isn't near as good as the SolidWorks drawing, but you can kind of see that it is unlikely.

froggy47

Thanks for an informative post, I just don't see where it's (a hole) going to miss the knuckle.

Tourmgr1

froggy47

Good post above, so a couple of questions.

When on the car where is the hole - use as example the face of a clock.

Did you drill the holes with the plate on the car?

How LONG a replacement stud will go thru? Is there anything a long stud will hit as you thread it thru?

By that I mean the head, anything in the way of a long one?

waddisme

When I had my rear hubs off, I tried to drill the plates, but just could not find a place that looked like it would work. Just went ahead and installed ARPs while I had hubs off. Hopefully that will be the last I have to worry about that.

travisnd

I tried this years ago on an old Z06 and accidentally popped the parking brake spring loose and had a bitch of a time getting it back in. Ended up just pulling the hub and installing ARPs.

froggy47

How do you get some slack in the parking brake cable?

sperkins

You can unhook the cable from the loop, pop the spring locks out and pull the whole cable out.

froggy47

That's what I figured, why so hard to hook back up for travisnd?

Bill Dearborn

Watched your video. The place you drill the hole is in front of the hub where you had your finger between the two holes for the caliper bracket. You can try this on the front hub to be sure. Since the knuckles are the same the only difference is the spot will be at the rear of the front knuckle. It is a tight fit but you can get a stock stud in and out the hub using that location. Try it in the front since you don't have to drill a hole to find out whether your studs can go in out of the front hub. The stud is loose in the hole when the knurled section is pushed out of the hub thus giving you just enough room to move the knurled end sideways and past the knuckle. If your stud is too long you may not be able to get it in and out that way but I know the stock studs can be removed and inserted doing that since I have done it myself.

The problem in the rear is where you have to drill the backing plate. The hole is very close to the spot the parking brake shoe retaining spring fits into the backing plate. If you tear up the notch in the backing plate the spring won't hold the shoe in place and the shoe will flop around when you remove/install rotors.

Bill

froggy47

I want to be able to remove the arp's and put stock length back in so I can put the stock closed lug nuts on when I sell it. So don't want to pull the upright 2x.

Tourmgr1

I drilled and filed the backing plates quite a long time and yes they were still installed on the car. I do not recommend this...I can't remember if I installed long studs but I think so.
I long ago removed the parking brake and backing plate replaced the rear rotors with 2 piece stop techs and installed C5 front calipers.
I have never looked back.
Good Luck.

froggy47

Thanks Bill, I get it, you drill the hole as far out on the backing plate as possible and angle in the new stud. At the part of the curve that is "deepest".

The arp's are about 3/4 inch longer. Hmmm. Maybe just get good at pulling the upright like was suggested on another thread.

I think I will play with the front & see what I can learn like Bill said.

sperkins

I honestly believe it would be easier just to remove the hub and do it right using a press. You don't need a ball joint separator. Just remove the brake parts, pull the upper arm from the frame, disconnect the tie rod, loosen the nut on the lower ball joint, unthread the nut to the top of the ball joint stud and hit it with a big hammer. Pull the axle out of the spindle and unbolt the hub - or you can leave the spindle attached and carry the whole assembly (upper A-arm and all) to your workbench. It a 15min process.

froggy47

How about this?

http://www.c5help.com/C5_Rear_Wheel_Bearing.htm

Does the axle just slip out or what do you do to get the axle out?

Bill Dearborn

I studied these pictures a little closer and it looks like the holes are drilled out in approximately the same location that I mentioned. You can see the one hole is close to the spring mount.

Bill

mountainbiker2

I think your saying that you want to remove the ARP studs. Just cut them all real short so you can get them out. Better yet, cut them short, so you can put on the stock lug nuts.

Steve A.

froggy47

Hi Steve, yes I did think of that, just shorten them to go back to stock closed lug nuts.

In that link I posted it looks like I was almost there. Just disconnect the tie rod end & whack the lower BJ loose & twist the upright & I have access (plus detach the PB cable).

How hard to get the axle nut off & axle out of the bearing assm? Is it 34mm? Or 33?

naschmitz

I've swapped all my hubs and it's really a 15min job.