JTRANTHA

My car had some big time brake fade today... Hi temp brake fluid and steel braided lines.. Any ideas on which fluid. Any other ideas..

jason

I know C6Z brakes would be great but what to do in the meantime

bluemagoo

Was it your brake fluid or your pads that overheated?

Webz

SRF Brake Fluid
DRM SS Pistons
Z06 Brake ducts w Quantum Adapters (I have some used ones for sale off my C6)
Hawk DTC 60's or 70's
Anti-Knock Back Springs

= no brake fade/good pedal

Never had a problem with this setup!

Scooter70

Which fluid? How old was it? Most importantly, which pads? Did you follow the pads manufacturer's recommended bed-in procedure?

MartyZ51

That is a really good track day setup. I assume you're running Hoosiers. What are Anti-Knock Back Springs?

stevensa

What pads? Im guessing Hawk HP? If so there is your problem, just run a better pad like and HP+, DTC 60/70, Carbotech XP10, etc.

JTRANTHA

The problem I had was the pedal was spongy and went to the floor.. barely slowed the car down

KNSBrakes

Light springs behind the pistons. Keep pads snug.

Imagine -

Car goes right really hard.

Hugb and bearing flex - which allows rotor to bat pistons back one way.

Car goes right hard.

Rotor bats pistons other way.

Next brake section - pistons are pushed back some so pedal goes much farther.

Knockback

-Ken

KNSBrakes

Spongy and floor usually equals fluid fade

hard and no stop = pad fade

stevensa

What fluid and how old was it?

JTRANTHA

OK.. I guess it started out while i was on the track. it sounds like a bit of both. on the track, i would apply the brake pedal at one point, when right behind an M3 waiting to pass, i applied the brake pedal and it went down nearly to the floor. it would come back after a few turns of letting the brakes cool a bit. Then, on the next run, while going through the pits at 5mph, i applied the brakes and the pedal went down nearly to the floor and barely stopped. by pumping it a bit, it would help. almost like there was no pressure in the brakes, like a bad brake master cylinder... probably pads and fluid...

redtopz

What pads and what fluid? Cooling ducts?

bluemagoo

That's not a good feeling when the pedal sinks to the floor . I'd suggest starting by flushing out the old brake fluid and changing Motul 600 or (even better but more expensive) Castrol SRF. After that look at spindle ducts...Quantum, DRM, etc. to help with cooling. If you're still using stock C6 pads you'll probably want to upgrade to something designed for track use (Carbotech, Hawk, etc.)

WNeal

Do a good brake bleed and make sure you have enough pad left.
Bleed enough to do a decent flush

Webz

Knockback defined
http://stoptech.com/technical-suppor.../pad-knockback

Example of an anti-knockback spring
http://www.apracing.com/info/info.as...ck+Springs_110

Scooter70

The answers to these two questions is the answer to your problem.

gkmccready

What you're describing sounds like you had the wrong pads on the car. And you're lacking brake cooling. But it's probably mostly pads, and also potentially combining that with over-braking. When I ran the stock calipers I was having issues even with PFC01 pads and some cooling ducts and Motul RBF600 fluid. When I moved to Wilwood SL6Rs with thermolocks and Wilwood H pads (or PFC01s) and _less_ cooling duct work I have had zero brake issues. Stock calipers and thin pads are rough on things.

sothpaw2

As said...SRF fluid, fresh, 1 wk before event (or less). Also DRM SS pistions in the calipers and Ti shields for the pads. Use a good pad suited for you tire...I use wil wood H with the NittoR-II and these are more than capable of tons of ABS. Stock pads (ie overheated)on NittoR-II will act just like bad fluid in my experience.

C4B4the04

Are you running AH or TCS? Are you in Competition Mode or do you have all your nannies off? I've instructed plenty of cars with that stuff on that the brakes get too hot (even melting ball joint covers off).

Cassidy