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Most Possible Neg Camber with Stock GS/Z06

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Old 02-12-2012, 11:00 AM
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trapp
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Default Most Possible Neg Camber with Stock GS/Z06

Planning on returning to track this year. Running Hoosiers. Whats the most neg camber that is reasonable possible with Stock GS/Z06.

Second Question: can you run the neg camber with stock wheels or will it really be bad on tires. I don't drive alot ..maybe 3k a summer on the vette other then track days.

Tom
Old 02-12-2012, 02:16 PM
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acrace
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Originally Posted by trapp
Planning on returning to track this year. Running Hoosiers. Whats the most neg camber that is reasonable possible with Stock GS/Z06.

Second Question: can you run the neg camber with stock wheels or will it really be bad on tires. I don't drive alot ..maybe 3k a summer on the vette other then track days.

Tom
Up front, probably around -2.7 to -3 deg, and in the rear probably around -1.7 or thereabouts. Estimated based upon where I have my car and approximate adjustability left.
Old 02-12-2012, 05:27 PM
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Shaka
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Originally Posted by trapp
Planning on returning to track this year. Running Hoosiers. Whats the most neg camber that is reasonable possible with Stock GS/Z06.

Second Question: can you run the neg camber with stock wheels or will it really be bad on tires. I don't drive alot ..maybe 3k a summer on the vette other then track days.

Tom
The camber is not important especially for a stock car, it is how the tire is wearing on the track that counts. Corvette owners who get rid of their runflats have to change their cambers for street use anyway. Camber is set for the turn that counts the most for the fastest lap. Remember that the inside tire does cornering work also. You may also want to consider the life of the tire. Maybe you will want to run them for the rest of the season. After numerous heat cycles, the tire performance drops off and aggressive cambers can aggravate this decline. GS is heavier and much slower than a Z06 so they would require different settings. The track surface and temp has an effect also. How aggressive is the driver? Do you like a loose or tight car?
Ask Hoosier what they recommend for the specific track or ask the fastest guy in a stock Z06 what he uses. Ask them about pressures also.
Make sure the tires are the right size for the rims. Side thrust can be affected by wall angle. Just start with 1 1/2' neg front and 1' neg rear, 1/4' toe in rear and zero front and see how the tires look after a few laps. If the reading is not clear, tape off a 4" wide section across the tire tread to the top of the wall and spray it with white paint. The tread depth holes will tell the story. A pyrometer is no good unless measured in real time, but your hand is more sensitive. If you are able to stop shortly after the most important turn after the 3rd or 4th time, jump out the car quickly and run your hand over the tread. If the temp is uniform, you are on the money. Start with the highest pressures and begin lowering them. Lap time improvement is the real story.
Record all data. The camber adjustment from the initial data point will be determined by how much you have lowered the pressure. You may have to go to 2' neg on the front on a stock Z06. To start with two much neg camber will give you erroneous initial feedback, sides, you have never used this tire before. Each tire is constructed differently.
To design a suspension, the selected tire's properties is the starting point. To start with the suspension first as you are doing, may require a reverse procedure. The most difficult information to obtain is tire data from the manufacturer.
Start with the manufacturers recommendations
Old 02-15-2012, 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Shaka
The camber is not important especially for a stock car, it is how the tire is wearing on the track that counts. Corvette owners who get rid of their runflats have to change their cambers for street use anyway. Camber is set for the turn that counts the most for the fastest lap. Remember that the inside tire does cornering work also. You may also want to consider the life of the tire. Maybe you will want to run them for the rest of the season. After numerous heat cycles, the tire performance drops off and aggressive cambers can aggravate this decline. GS is heavier and much slower than a Z06 so they would require different settings. The track surface and temp has an effect also. How aggressive is the driver? Do you like a loose or tight car?
Ask Hoosier what they recommend for the specific track or ask the fastest guy in a stock Z06 what he uses. Ask them about pressures also.
Make sure the tires are the right size for the rims. Side thrust can be affected by wall angle. Just start with 1 1/2' neg front and 1' neg rear, 1/4' toe in rear and zero front and see how the tires look after a few laps. If the reading is not clear, tape off a 4" wide section across the tire tread to the top of the wall and spray it with white paint. The tread depth holes will tell the story. A pyrometer is no good unless measured in real time, but your hand is more sensitive. If you are able to stop shortly after the most important turn after the 3rd or 4th time, jump out the car quickly and run your hand over the tread. If the temp is uniform, you are on the money. Start with the highest pressures and begin lowering them. Lap time improvement is the real story.
Record all data. The camber adjustment from the initial data point will be determined by how much you have lowered the pressure. You may have to go to 2' neg on the front on a stock Z06. To start with two much neg camber will give you erroneous initial feedback, sides, you have never used this tire before. Each tire is constructed differently.
To design a suspension, the selected tire's properties is the starting point. To start with the suspension first as you are doing, may require a reverse procedure. The most difficult information to obtain is tire data from the manufacturer.
Start with the manufacturers recommendations
Sounds good...from what i remmeber on my 09 Z51 -1.2 was all they could get on the front stock system...about -1 on the rear....
Old 02-16-2012, 08:19 AM
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I just went through this on my '05 Z51...

With all the washers removed from the front upper control arms (my car only had one), I can get about -2.5* max. Through trial and error, I have learned that removing a weasher from the top is good for about -0.3* and each hash mark on the eccentric bolts is good for about 0.4*. This is by no means an exact science but is a good starting point.

The rear will only get about -1.5*, maybe just a hair more.

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