How to get more Camber?
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Member Since: Nov 2006
Location: Yorkville IL
Posts: 1,098
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
How to get more Camber?
How do I get a C6 GS to more then 1.5 neg camber? I'm running hoosiers R6's and I was wondering what my options are..
#2
Drifting
Camber kit. Pfadt sells one.
#3
Instructor
In the front? Did your alignment person remove the washers from behind the upper control arm mounts? Where the upper control arms bolt to the frame there are washers between the mount and the frame. You remove the washers and that effectively moves the upper control arm inward which gives you more negative camber. And it's free.
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Member Since: Nov 2006
Location: Yorkville IL
Posts: 1,098
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
In the front? Did your alignment person remove the washers from behind the upper control arm mounts? Where the upper control arms bolt to the frame there are washers between the mount and the frame. You remove the washers and that effectively moves the upper control arm inward which gives you more negative camber. And it's free.
Tom
#5
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Oct 1999
Location: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Posts: 40,089
Received 8,928 Likes
on
5,333 Posts
I believe you can get close to 3 degrees doing that on a C6Z or GS. I could get -2.3 on my C5s doing that. When I installed a camber kit on the C5Z I didn't gain any more camber just lost the adjustable cams on the LCAs.
There are also washers behind the rear UCAs on the Z06. I think you need to leave one washer (with insert) minimum on each bolt behind each UCA.
Not sure how much rear camber you want on the wide body cars GM specs -1.25 +/- .6 deg for a stock camber. If you crank in too much you start to lose straight line traction.
Bill
There are also washers behind the rear UCAs on the Z06. I think you need to leave one washer (with insert) minimum on each bolt behind each UCA.
Not sure how much rear camber you want on the wide body cars GM specs -1.25 +/- .6 deg for a stock camber. If you crank in too much you start to lose straight line traction.
Bill
#6
Burning Brakes
In the rear my car had 2 washers each. There is no reason that you cannot remove those as well.
#8
Our Camber kits really aren't about getting more negative camber. The real advantage is that they eliminate the factory eccentric bolts that are known to slip, and really lock in your alignment settings while you're at the track.
Just like the gentlemen above have mentioned, if you remove the shims between the frame and the control arms you will achieve more negative camber.
Just like the gentlemen above have mentioned, if you remove the shims between the frame and the control arms you will achieve more negative camber.
#9
Drifting
I stand corrected!
#10
It makes perfect sense though! On a MacPhearson car camber plates do allow you to gain overall more negative camber, but on the Corvette there is a ton of available adjustment. The problem lies with the eccentric bolts that can slip, especially while on track. That's where our camber kit comes in, by eliminating the eccentrics and moving to a series of plates and shims there isn't a possibility of the alignment slipping and changing.
#11
Race Director
I believe I can get a few tenths more neg with the max plate and the pins in max neg position over the stock bolts. I'm at about -3.0 and still have a couple of shims on each upper arm to even the sides out.
I have absolutely zero push. I turn, it goes.
Pfadt FTW.
I have absolutely zero push. I turn, it goes.
Pfadt FTW.
#13
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Member Since: Nov 2006
Location: Yorkville IL
Posts: 1,098
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would like to keep the same alignment and just add more neg camber for the track....
Is it that simple??
Btw: 1/8 intoe on front??
Last edited by trapp; 04-18-2012 at 02:00 PM.
#15
Burning Brakes
Let me get this straight...Once the correct alignment is done you can simply add or remove washers to add or subtract camber without throwing the alignment off...
I would like to keep the same alignment and just add more neg camber for the track....
Is it that simple??
Btw: 1/8 intoe on front??
I would like to keep the same alignment and just add more neg camber for the track....
Is it that simple??
Btw: 1/8 intoe on front??
#16
Track Junky
Let me get this straight...Once the correct alignment is done you can simply add or remove washers to add or subtract camber without throwing the alignment off...
I would like to keep the same alignment and just add more neg camber for the track....
Is it that simple??
Btw: 1/8 intoe on front??
I would like to keep the same alignment and just add more neg camber for the track....
Is it that simple??
Btw: 1/8 intoe on front??
#18
Le Mans Master
Also, those are steel bolts going in aluminum. You DARE not strip those and they unlike your lug nuts were not designed to be removed over and over again. I would not want to fatigue the aluminum.
#19
Instructor
Let me get this straight...Once the correct alignment is done you can simply add or remove washers to add or subtract camber without throwing the alignment off...
I would like to keep the same alignment and just add more neg camber for the track....
Is it that simple??
Btw: 1/8 intoe on front??
I would like to keep the same alignment and just add more neg camber for the track....
Is it that simple??
Btw: 1/8 intoe on front??
#20
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Member Since: Nov 2006
Location: Yorkville IL
Posts: 1,098
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What is your goal? Nationaly competitive auto-x or just better handling? Lots of negative camber + toe out = very short tire life. Try zero toe in front and 1/4" toe IN for the rear. Your tires and your wallet will thank you. Unless of course you trailor you car everywhere then you want a little toe out in front.
So 1/8 toe in in rear and neutral toe in front?
Tom