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How to get more Camber?

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Old 04-16-2012, 10:54 AM
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trapp
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Default How to get more Camber?

How do I get a C6 GS to more then 1.5 neg camber? I'm running hoosiers R6's and I was wondering what my options are..
Old 04-16-2012, 11:15 AM
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crimlwC6
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Camber kit. Pfadt sells one.
Old 04-16-2012, 12:46 PM
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SteveC68
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Originally Posted by trapp
How do I get a C6 GS to more then 1.5 neg camber? I'm running hoosiers R6's and I was wondering what my options are..
In the front? Did your alignment person remove the washers from behind the upper control arm mounts? Where the upper control arms bolt to the frame there are washers between the mount and the frame. You remove the washers and that effectively moves the upper control arm inward which gives you more negative camber. And it's free.
Old 04-16-2012, 01:27 PM
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trapp
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Originally Posted by SteveC68
In the front? Did your alignment person remove the washers from behind the upper control arm mounts? Where the upper control arms bolt to the frame there are washers between the mount and the frame. You remove the washers and that effectively moves the upper control arm inward which gives you more negative camber. And it's free.
This trick gets you how much more neg. camber? and it is not an option on the rear..

Tom
Old 04-16-2012, 01:50 PM
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Bill Dearborn
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I believe you can get close to 3 degrees doing that on a C6Z or GS. I could get -2.3 on my C5s doing that. When I installed a camber kit on the C5Z I didn't gain any more camber just lost the adjustable cams on the LCAs.

There are also washers behind the rear UCAs on the Z06. I think you need to leave one washer (with insert) minimum on each bolt behind each UCA.

Not sure how much rear camber you want on the wide body cars GM specs -1.25 +/- .6 deg for a stock camber. If you crank in too much you start to lose straight line traction.

Bill
Old 04-16-2012, 03:10 PM
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C5Lion
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Originally Posted by trapp
This trick gets you how much more neg. camber? and it is not an option on the rear..

Tom
Each washer should get you about 0.4 degree camber. I remove 3 and go from -1.5 on the street to about -2.7 on the track.

In the rear my car had 2 washers each. There is no reason that you cannot remove those as well.
Old 04-16-2012, 03:44 PM
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95jersey
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Removed all washers and got -3.0
Old 04-16-2012, 06:22 PM
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Pfadt Racing
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Our Camber kits really aren't about getting more negative camber. The real advantage is that they eliminate the factory eccentric bolts that are known to slip, and really lock in your alignment settings while you're at the track.

Just like the gentlemen above have mentioned, if you remove the shims between the frame and the control arms you will achieve more negative camber.
Old 04-16-2012, 06:48 PM
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crimlwC6
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I stand corrected!
Old 04-16-2012, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by crimlwC6
I stand corrected!
It makes perfect sense though! On a MacPhearson car camber plates do allow you to gain overall more negative camber, but on the Corvette there is a ton of available adjustment. The problem lies with the eccentric bolts that can slip, especially while on track. That's where our camber kit comes in, by eliminating the eccentrics and moving to a series of plates and shims there isn't a possibility of the alignment slipping and changing.
Old 04-16-2012, 09:21 PM
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froggy47
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I believe I can get a few tenths more neg with the max plate and the pins in max neg position over the stock bolts. I'm at about -3.0 and still have a couple of shims on each upper arm to even the sides out.

I have absolutely zero push. I turn, it goes.

Pfadt FTW.

Old 04-18-2012, 08:13 AM
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taken19
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If I remember correctly, each washer removed is worth 0.3-0.4* of camber.
Old 04-18-2012, 01:58 PM
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trapp
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Originally Posted by taken19
If I remember correctly, each washer removed is worth 0.3-0.4* of camber.
Let me get this straight...Once the correct alignment is done you can simply add or remove washers to add or subtract camber without throwing the alignment off...

I would like to keep the same alignment and just add more neg camber for the track....

Is it that simple??

Btw: 1/8 intoe on front??

Last edited by trapp; 04-18-2012 at 02:00 PM.
Old 04-18-2012, 02:01 PM
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el es tu
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couldn't get more than 1.2 up front with the stock hardware. the pfadt kit lets it go much further now
Old 04-18-2012, 04:08 PM
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naschmitz
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Originally Posted by trapp
Let me get this straight...Once the correct alignment is done you can simply add or remove washers to add or subtract camber without throwing the alignment off...

I would like to keep the same alignment and just add more neg camber for the track....

Is it that simple??

Btw: 1/8 intoe on front??
Changing camber changes toe. So it will throw off your alignment if you don't adjust the tie rods.
Old 04-18-2012, 04:56 PM
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taken19
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Originally Posted by trapp
Let me get this straight...Once the correct alignment is done you can simply add or remove washers to add or subtract camber without throwing the alignment off...

I would like to keep the same alignment and just add more neg camber for the track....

Is it that simple??

Btw: 1/8 intoe on front??
It's not that simple. Every time camber changes, it affects toe.
Old 04-18-2012, 06:00 PM
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froggy47
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Those two guys above.

Camber chg = toe chg.

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Old 04-19-2012, 11:23 AM
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95jersey
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Also, those are steel bolts going in aluminum. You DARE not strip those and they unlike your lug nuts were not designed to be removed over and over again. I would not want to fatigue the aluminum.
Old 04-19-2012, 11:26 AM
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SteveC68
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Originally Posted by trapp
Let me get this straight...Once the correct alignment is done you can simply add or remove washers to add or subtract camber without throwing the alignment off...

I would like to keep the same alignment and just add more neg camber for the track....

Is it that simple??

Btw: 1/8 intoe on front??
What is your goal? Nationaly competitive auto-x or just better handling? Lots of negative camber + toe out = very short tire life. Try zero toe in front and 1/4" toe IN for the rear. Your tires and your wallet will thank you. Unless of course you trailor you car everywhere then you want a little toe out in front.
Old 04-19-2012, 03:18 PM
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trapp
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Originally Posted by SteveC68
What is your goal? Nationaly competitive auto-x or just better handling? Lots of negative camber + toe out = very short tire life. Try zero toe in front and 1/4" toe IN for the rear. Your tires and your wallet will thank you. Unless of course you trailor you car everywhere then you want a little toe out in front.
I do trailer my car...run R6's on road courses....without the neg camber I will eat my outer tire fast! I do drive it also but only on weekends...I would add back the washers between track days. I know it would mess slightly with the toe but I'm wondering how much.

So 1/8 toe in in rear and neutral toe in front?

Tom


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