Brake duct issue...
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Brake duct issue...
I installed DRM's brake ducts recently.
I then noticed a problem (which I may have created myself) with them after a track day recently.
Where the plastic duct terminates the hose slips on it and is attached with a large radiator hose clamp. The problem is that when the clamp was tightened a lot, it collapsed the plastic duct and the hose slipped off.
I didn't notice this until the wheel was removed. At that point, though, the ducts haven't helped at all for brake cooling, but they have dumped a lot of air into the wheel well.
So, I thought about it a bit and came to a simple solution. (No, I didn't take the ducts off!). I bought a 3" PVC coupler, cut a 3/4" band off of it. Then I cut a 1/2" section out of the ring so that it could compress some. I slid this inside the plastic duct opening, and when it sprung open it fit the opening perfectly with the ends of the band butting against each other for compression strength.
I siliconed that in place, put the hose back on the plastic duct opening, and now I can put as much clamping force on the hose clamp as needed and I know it won't come off.
Here's what the duct opening looks like: (I had already inserted the band in it before I took the picture)
A close up:
Here it is reassembled:
Here's the sacrificial coupling:
It's amazing how much air these things flow. I put a leaf blower up to the bumper opening and a hurricane was going into the rotor.
I then noticed a problem (which I may have created myself) with them after a track day recently.
Where the plastic duct terminates the hose slips on it and is attached with a large radiator hose clamp. The problem is that when the clamp was tightened a lot, it collapsed the plastic duct and the hose slipped off.
I didn't notice this until the wheel was removed. At that point, though, the ducts haven't helped at all for brake cooling, but they have dumped a lot of air into the wheel well.
So, I thought about it a bit and came to a simple solution. (No, I didn't take the ducts off!). I bought a 3" PVC coupler, cut a 3/4" band off of it. Then I cut a 1/2" section out of the ring so that it could compress some. I slid this inside the plastic duct opening, and when it sprung open it fit the opening perfectly with the ends of the band butting against each other for compression strength.
I siliconed that in place, put the hose back on the plastic duct opening, and now I can put as much clamping force on the hose clamp as needed and I know it won't come off.
Here's what the duct opening looks like: (I had already inserted the band in it before I took the picture)
A close up:
Here it is reassembled:
Here's the sacrificial coupling:
It's amazing how much air these things flow. I put a leaf blower up to the bumper opening and a hurricane was going into the rotor.
#4
Burning Brakes
Jody,
Will the silicone hold better than adding one or two screws to hold the compression ring in the DRM duct? As your competitor, it’s not that I don't want you to have cooler brakes. I just don’t want to eat the parts if they come off while I am behind you!
Ed
Will the silicone hold better than adding one or two screws to hold the compression ring in the DRM duct? As your competitor, it’s not that I don't want you to have cooler brakes. I just don’t want to eat the parts if they come off while I am behind you!
Ed
#5
Drifting
Cool. I have the same kit. I'd also be interested in knowing if you're using a backing plate to keep the hosing off the rotors. Mine just sits on the rotors at the end and I don't think it's as effective.
#7
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
I thought about screws but if they came out someone is getting a flat. Once the insert is in and clamped down the chance of it it coming loose is small.
#8
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
I had a guy build me a set of ducts that attach to the spindle and put air into the center of the rotor. That duct exits right next to the rotor.
#9
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
#10
Le Mans Master
Looks good Jody.
I bought my ducts used and they were already collapsed from someone (not naming names Khoi) using clamps like you said. My only choice was to use screws so I did. I was concerned about them coming out too so I wrapped the whole thing with a small strip of duct tape just to be safe (no clamp). Going on 2 yrs now with no issues.
I bought my ducts used and they were already collapsed from someone (not naming names Khoi) using clamps like you said. My only choice was to use screws so I did. I was concerned about them coming out too so I wrapped the whole thing with a small strip of duct tape just to be safe (no clamp). Going on 2 yrs now with no issues.
#13
Team Owner
taper the edge in the direction the air comes in. 5 minutes with a round round file does it.
I had a set and after the event the air blew in from the brakes on one side back into the plastic duct and the front 1/4 of the duct collapsed and was so severely deformed to the point of junk. Be careful how you park.
I had a set and after the event the air blew in from the brakes on one side back into the plastic duct and the front 1/4 of the duct collapsed and was so severely deformed to the point of junk. Be careful how you park.
Last edited by John Shiels; 05-06-2012 at 08:49 PM.
#14
Burning Brakes
Good work Jody... now I'm going to copy your engineering and do that to my brake ducts I noticed mine were collapsed as well after the wreck and need to be fixed up.