Need Help Picking a C5 Front Brake Kit.
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Need Help Picking a C5 Front Brake Kit.
Hey Gang,
I'm going to upgrade the front brakes on my 99 FRC track-only race car and would appreciate any input from the folks who've been down this path.
I'm running stock 17/18 C5 Z06 Alcoas with NT05's presently, but have a full set of 18 C5 Z06 Alcoas and 2 more 18 C5 Z06 Speedlines with no tires as of yet. I'm leaning towards getting a scrubbed set of 305 R6's for the square 18 Alcoa setup for my dry tires & use the 17/18 Alcoa NT05 for when it's wet. I could be convinced to loose the 17's up front & use the Speedlines in a square 18 setup with a different set of 'intermediate' tires to accommodate a bigger brake package. I've been using the DRM/Quantum brake duct setup with stock calipers/rotors & Carbo XP12's & ss lines & ATE Dot4 fluid. They stop well, but the pedal gets long fast & I only get 4 days on the track out of the pads.
I've been looking at the Hardbar/AP Racing T1 setup (will fit my 17's), as well as the Willwood SL6R kit (17's or 18's depending on rotors). There are Brembo kits as well as others out there, to be sure. I'll be putting in a fresh set of SKF hubs & Delrin control arm bushings at the same time.
I've read good things about the HB/AP setup, as well as the SL6R kit (which is about $1k less) - not sure how they stack up in a side-by-side comparison (durability, cost to maintain), or how the other kits compare. Am I better off going bigger (and losing the 17s up front), or are the 'smaller' kits just as good?
Thoughts & comments?
I'm going to upgrade the front brakes on my 99 FRC track-only race car and would appreciate any input from the folks who've been down this path.
I'm running stock 17/18 C5 Z06 Alcoas with NT05's presently, but have a full set of 18 C5 Z06 Alcoas and 2 more 18 C5 Z06 Speedlines with no tires as of yet. I'm leaning towards getting a scrubbed set of 305 R6's for the square 18 Alcoa setup for my dry tires & use the 17/18 Alcoa NT05 for when it's wet. I could be convinced to loose the 17's up front & use the Speedlines in a square 18 setup with a different set of 'intermediate' tires to accommodate a bigger brake package. I've been using the DRM/Quantum brake duct setup with stock calipers/rotors & Carbo XP12's & ss lines & ATE Dot4 fluid. They stop well, but the pedal gets long fast & I only get 4 days on the track out of the pads.
I've been looking at the Hardbar/AP Racing T1 setup (will fit my 17's), as well as the Willwood SL6R kit (17's or 18's depending on rotors). There are Brembo kits as well as others out there, to be sure. I'll be putting in a fresh set of SKF hubs & Delrin control arm bushings at the same time.
I've read good things about the HB/AP setup, as well as the SL6R kit (which is about $1k less) - not sure how they stack up in a side-by-side comparison (durability, cost to maintain), or how the other kits compare. Am I better off going bigger (and losing the 17s up front), or are the 'smaller' kits just as good?
Thoughts & comments?
#2
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Member Since: Jan 2008
Location: Houston Texas
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I have an 03 Z06, and just went through this same thought/research process. While the car stopped alright, the long, inconsistent pedal is disconcerting at best. The two kits I looked at the hardest were the LG G-stop package with Wilwoods, and then the Hardbar/APRacing setup. I ended up choosing the AP racing setup because of the anti-knockback springs, stainless steel pistons, lighter caliper weight, and previous good experience with Gary at Hardbar. I have never had a bad experience with LG whatsoever, so please nobody take it that way.
Because of current cost constraints, I will be using only the calipers/mounts/Spiegler stainless lines/Ferodo DSUno pads; I did not pay the extra $1k for the trick brake hats/rotors. I just got a pair of the Brakemotive stock replacement brake rotors and after 1 hour of track time with Carbotech XP10/XP8's are showing no heat checking or wear, and when those are dead, I may opt to get Hardbar's rotors.
I ordered the kit last week, I hope to have it on and tested this week if shipping/work time cooperates.
-damen
Because of current cost constraints, I will be using only the calipers/mounts/Spiegler stainless lines/Ferodo DSUno pads; I did not pay the extra $1k for the trick brake hats/rotors. I just got a pair of the Brakemotive stock replacement brake rotors and after 1 hour of track time with Carbotech XP10/XP8's are showing no heat checking or wear, and when those are dead, I may opt to get Hardbar's rotors.
I ordered the kit last week, I hope to have it on and tested this week if shipping/work time cooperates.
-damen
#3
Drifting
Thread Starter
I have an 03 Z06, and just went through this same thought/research process. While the car stopped alright, the long, inconsistent pedal is disconcerting at best. The two kits I looked at the hardest were the LG G-stop package with Wilwoods, and then the Hardbar/APRacing setup. I ended up choosing the AP racing setup because of the anti-knockback springs, stainless steel pistons, lighter caliper weight, and previous good experience with Gary at Hardbar. I have never had a bad experience with LG whatsoever, so please nobody take it that way.
Because of current cost constraints, I will be using only the calipers/mounts/Spiegler stainless lines/Ferodo DSUno pads; I did not pay the extra $1k for the trick brake hats/rotors. I just got a pair of the Brakemotive stock replacement brake rotors and after 1 hour of track time with Carbotech XP10/XP8's are showing no heat checking or wear, and when those are dead, I may opt to get Hardbar's rotors.
I ordered the kit last week, I hope to have it on and tested this week if shipping/work time cooperates.
-damen
Because of current cost constraints, I will be using only the calipers/mounts/Spiegler stainless lines/Ferodo DSUno pads; I did not pay the extra $1k for the trick brake hats/rotors. I just got a pair of the Brakemotive stock replacement brake rotors and after 1 hour of track time with Carbotech XP10/XP8's are showing no heat checking or wear, and when those are dead, I may opt to get Hardbar's rotors.
I ordered the kit last week, I hope to have it on and tested this week if shipping/work time cooperates.
-damen
#4
Racer
I was lucky to pick these up Performance Friction ZR33's here from a member. Look around for some used calipers from the guys that come on here a lot. You will save a lot of money and get brakes that people drool over.
#5
Drifting
Im upgrading to a 6-pot Alcon system so Ill soon be selling a complete front / rear Alcon C5 brake system with 4 pot radial mount Alcon calipers (Type B) and 13.5" - 2-piece floating rotors all around. All lines and hardware included. Ill be asking around $2500 for everything. Awesome f/r balanced 4 wheel system for price of a quality front only kit. Fits C5Z 17" wheels but easily upgradable to 14" rotors. PM me for additional details if interested.
Last edited by C5ZEE06; 05-19-2012 at 06:13 PM.
#7
Race Director
https://www.facebook.com/DavidFarmerRacing
#8
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Sep 2002
Location: Oakville Ontario,Canada
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I have the AP T1 set up and they are some serious brakes. Solid pedal and allow you to go much deeper into brake zones.. I got the full package with the hard bar 2 piece rotors and these seem to be indestructable. I run the Ferodo DS1.11 Pads and they also seem to last forever. I love this set up because they fit a lot of wheels, they STOP when you want with no fade and they actually have been saving me money on rotors and pads.
#9
Drifting
#10
Team Owner
99% sure not all WW kits have the SS. My LG ones do and some got the calipers without them and it was X dollars to add them later. You do want the SS pistons.
Both great I guess it comes down to dollars and replacement cost of consumables.
Both great I guess it comes down to dollars and replacement cost of consumables.
#12
Team Owner
#13
Race Director
The PFC kit I have is a hardcore system, uses huge/thick padlets (their indycar system). The only problem with their kit is that only they make pads for it. Good news is I have a pretty good assortment of spare pads and rotors that go with it.
#14
Racer
After running PFC 99 and PFC 01's in my C5 stock braking system, plus Performance Friction's reputation. That wasn't even a concern. I also didn't want to out grow my brakes. Like David mentioned they're a hardcore system. They are set up for quick pad change. I want to do some endurance racing. The 4 Hours at Pacific Raceway,Cascade 8 hour endurance race and maybe Nasa's 25 hours of Thunderhill. So the little extra I paid, in addition to the deal that I got here. I have a great system! I do know that Corvettes aren't the best Enduro cars. That's not going to stop me. Pun intended
Last edited by Paul Schmidt; 05-20-2012 at 01:46 PM.
#16
Drifting
I have the AP T1 set up and they are some serious brakes. Solid pedal and allow you to go much deeper into brake zones.. I got the full package with the hard bar 2 piece rotors and these seem to be indestructable. I run the Ferodo DS1.11 Pads and they also seem to last forever. I love this set up because they fit a lot of wheels, they STOP when you want with no fade and they actually have been saving me money on rotors and pads.
#17
Racer
That is a huge advantage, and I had forgot to mention that the ZR33's can use the stock rotors too. Both are great systems.
#18
Race Director
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Deal's Gap 2004 NCM Motorsports track supporter
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If you want to run the 18" tires on all corners, all the time, then go 14" rotor setup with BBK for the best stopping on the road course. I have the WW SL6's that use the 13" oem rotor on front with the 17/18 setup and find it OK but it is not in the same league as a good 14" rotor setup. One friend runs a 15" rotor with 19" wheels on the front of his C5 and he can practically detach your retinas! :yes nod:
Bear in mind that the better the stopping power the more you will need a good 2 pc. rotor for many reasons. One being less conducted heat into the wheel bearings and subsequent failure.
Bear in mind that the better the stopping power the more you will need a good 2 pc. rotor for many reasons. One being less conducted heat into the wheel bearings and subsequent failure.