waddisme

I am assuming that is what it is seeing most eventually have the same issue. Mine has only been in less than 15 months. It has worked great for pre lubing and I assume it has worked for track days even though my oil pressure rarely gets below 35lbs. Any other issue I should persue? Not going to waste another $189 for electric, just going to work out a way to use the manual valve.

OCCOMSRAZOR

Many people ( including me) have had this problem. A manual valve is the final solution, one just has to remember to turn it on and off at the correct times.

MySR71

Could it be that the pressure switch it bad? Seems like you could check it with a volt meter. Have the engine off and turn on the accusump system. If there the voltage is zero going out of the pressure switch and into the valve, then the switch is bad.

Or could there be a leak and you've lost the pressure on the air side of the accusump cylinder?

waddisme

Air guage still show ~50bls iirc. If you could show me where to test the switch I will. I am not really good with the electrical thing.



With toggle switch on, I put the red probe on the Pressure switch terminal going to the EPC valve and ground the other end. If voltage is zero, then the pressure switch is bad - correct?

Has anyone ever taken EPC valve apart to see where the weak link is and if it is repairable. I just looked on Canton site and valve is now $242. $90 for remote manual kit.

SLandstra_Z06

I've had mine replaced twice. Canton needs to know about it. They may take care of you.

Dirk Miller

I have replaced both the solenoid valve and pressure switch. And I am just running into another intermittent issue again. I am beginning to think that an electrical charge is being produced in the oil of the hoses. What kind of hoses are the rest of you using? Mine is the U Series hose by Swagelok. I have used 1/2 I.D. hoses with PFA on the inside & silicone on outside. I am just about to replace them with the UC Series which has carbon black filled PFA as the wetted I.D. surface. The carbon allows for grounding so no charge is built up. The Swagelok products are expensive. However, their hoses are super sturdy, super flexible and allow for the greatest flow due to the smooth transition between the fittings and the I.D. of their hoses. Guess once I change, I will see what the difference is, if any.

MySR71

You can do two things:

1.) The wire from your in car toggle switch should go to one side of the pressure switch. The first test would be to turn the switch on, then measure the voltage at the terminal of the pressure switch to which your in car toggle switch is attached. Yes, measure it to ground. This will tell you if the pressure switch is getting 12 volts. Maybe a fuse is blown somewhere or there is a bad connection so it isn't getting power. You should be able to do this with the car on or off but just have the toggle switch controlling the accusump on.

2.) If you passed the step above, then the pressure switch is getting power but now you want to know if it is working. Leave the car off but turn on the toggle switch inside the car. Check the voltage between ground and the other terminal of the pressure switch. This other terminal should be connected to the accusump valve. The idea is that with the car off, your oil pressure is zero and so the pressure switch should be giving the valve power to open and dump oil.

Hopefully this makes sense.

waddisme

Yes it did - thanks. I flipped the toggle switch to test pressure switch and I heard the damn thing click on and dump the oil into the block. This is after not working for the past week. If I didn't need to dump sump to change the oil, I would be pissed. Needless to say, pressure switch had 12.1 volts on incoming side and 10.87 on side going to EPC valve. Calling Canton tomorrow to see which direction to go now. Thanks for the help.

waddisme

Just got off the phone with the tech guy at Canton. He says contrary to popular misconception, they have few problems with the EPC valve or the pressure switch. He says there is just nothing to go wrong with the EPC valve, that if there is an issue, it is the pressure switch so I am to send it to him to check out. I did notice my air pressure was 0lbs this morning, and Canton says is should be 7-10lbs. Not sure if it matters, but I am going to reset the prechage tonight and try that before I tear stuff apart.

SouthernSon

I have noticed that my electrical switch works as it should when the oil is cold. I see the engine gauge build pressure but when it gets hot after a session the switch makes a 'clunk' but no oil pressure shows on the engine gauge. I have a manual switch on order now to simplify the whole unit, hopefully.

Rob's 73

My pressure switch went bad within 6 months. I rewired and use it as an electric (manual) valve. It has worked in this configuration for at least 3 years now.

GeorgeZNJ

They told me the same thing, "they have had very few problems over the years with the epc or the pressure switch". I explainged to the tech that I have a digital volt meter and going across the pressure sensor with the valve wired in, I have 12v to ground on one side of the pressure switch and 7.6 v on the other side of the p.s., and when I disconnect the vavle the sensor reads 12v on both sides. He told me I had a bad ground. I explainged to him that I'm using the same ground for all of my measurements so a bad ground is impossible and that I have 28yrs experience as a Licensed Master Electrcian. I also told him that sometimes I can hear the piston on prelube, and sometimes I can't. I also told him that I have a leak, because the top of the canister has oil on it, and my air pressure gauge has shown over 100psi at times. He suggested using another ground. Well after using it at Pocono 3 weeks ago and having oil run down onto the car and finally onto my own rear tire, I disconnected the epc at the track. I ran into another fellow that had the same problem and he removed his entirely, but he thought that perhap the oil pressure relief vavles arent working correctly, thus the oil leak. Anyway I took mine off the car completly,plugged the block and am going to send the entire assembly back to Canton for evaluation. P.S. On the track last month I watched my oil pressure on the dic read 78lbs(alarmed me) for first few laps then drop to 38-55 for the rest of the session as rpm dictated.

Cantonnick

Anyone experiencing this issue please call us direct. We are performing a ton of tests to diagnose the issues you guys may be experiencing. This is not a common issue but We would like to solve the issue before sending new switches out as warranties in case this happens again.

Anyone who is experiencing an issue, i ask to please contact me so i can get the switch in here for evaluation.

203-481-9460

Thank you
Nick Ansaldi
Canton Racing Products

Dirk Miller

I am having these same problems. I just replaced my original switch with a new one from Canton. It worked fine for the first couple of days. However over a few afternoons of city driving, I began having the same issues. This has led me to loose confidence in this set up. So yesterday I just changed out my hose to a carbon fiber hose. And bingo no issues. If I am correct, it is not an issue with the switch, but an electrical charge is slowly building up as the oil flows. This new hose is designed not to let this happen. I plan to track the car this weekend. Before I go I am also planning to simply ground the switch to a proven ground location. If this works, there will be no need to send the switch to be evaluated.

mgarfias

Hes full of ****, I've had the solenoid go bad with my first one, then a pressure switch.

Dirk Miller

Still having issues here. The sump will not dump. After replacing the hose with a carbon lined hose and still not having this function properly, I am satisfied to say it is not a static build up in the hose. Also I have replaced the solenoid valve. So what is going on here? I prefer to use a pressure switch rather than going to totally manual. I have already replaced this with a new one from Canton. Wondering what others have found?
What about you Canton?

waddisme

Talked to Nick at Canton yesterday. He says the issue is not in the pressure switch, but in the EPC valve. Their EPC supplier had changed the voltage(?) and it was heating up the contact on the pressure switch causing a carbon deposit which caused the switch to work intermittently (my best MIB explanation). He is returning my switch along with a different coil to replace in the EPC valve. Hopefully he will post the detailed explanation. Looks like progress.

Cantonnick

Recently we have been receiving calls about an issue with the electric valve working intermittently. Based off of years of experience with these valves and the rarity of these failing, i did everything i can to walk through troubleshooting with these customers and ultimately had some customers send their valves/ pressure switches in for testing.

At that time, I personally researched the issue and tested all of the valves as well as contacted both the sensor company as well as the valve company. During this time i tested amperage, resistance, etc.

Basically what we found was this:

About 1.5 years ago we changed valves from the green top Goyen valve made in AUS to a local company. The valves operated the exact same and the newer valve had a better look as well as they were lighter. One thing that was not disclosed to us was that the wattage for the coil actually had doubled from the Goyen from 9W-12V to 15.4W-12V. After calling the sensor company we found that the sensors max operating amperage is .8A . That lead us right to the problem.

The New coil at 15.4W was pulling 1.23A which was causing a semi short in the pressure switch. The Goyen was a 9W which was pulling .7A which was right under tolerance.

After finding this out, I contacted our valve company and they provided us with a 9W coil. This coil only requires 9V to operate but is rated for 12V.

For those of you who would like cliffs..

Cliffs:

Current valves coil pulling too much amperage for pressure switch.
New coils have been tested and are at the correct amperage.



All of our valves have been equipped with the new coils and i am currently waiting on a batch of coils to send out as replacements to those in the field who are experiencing this issue.

Anyone who is experiencing these issues, please contact me at info@cantonracingproducts.com or Racing.canton@gmail.com

Or call me direct at 203-481-9943.

Thank you

Nick Ansaldi

Slalom4me

Here is a compliment to CantonNick for his informative and forthright
post, not to mention the leg work undertaken to assess and resolve
the EPC issue.

I do not come around often anymore, but I have made some posts
about Canton in the past. This appears to be a new attitude and
I feel it is overdue for acknowledgement.

.

Slalom4me

FWIW, another approach may be to add a relay to the EPC circuit.

Instead of passing current through the EPC sensor to activate the
valve's solonoid, have the EPC sensor switch activate a relay and
have the current required to operate the solonoid carried through
the relay's contacts.



The switching side of a relay (85 & 86) requires very little current
draw to pull the main contacts together (30 & 87.) Once the contacts
close, this side of the relay can carry whatever current the relay is
rated for: usually 20A and up ...

An SPST, NO relay (Single Pull Single Throw, Normally Open) with a
20A load capacity is one suggestion.

Hella offers relays suitable for automotive use that come in a variety
of form factors. The style below has a integral mounting tab and
the case measures approximately 1" x 1" x 1".



Other versions without tabs are intended for use in a plug-in
a single or multiple receptacle/base. Some have cases with
interlocking segments on the sides so multiple relays can be ganged
together, some have skirts for weatherproofing, some have integral
fuses.

Without a doubt, adding a relay increases complexity, cost and even
weight - going against the K.I.S.S. principal. However, in some
situations, the benefits may be judged to outweigh the drawbacks.

.